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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
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https://archive.org/details/palestinepilgrirn00welc_0 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


The  Pilgrim 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 

/ 

EDWARD  RUSKIN  WELCH 


ASHEVILLE  ADVOCATE 


DEDICATION 


To  that  noble  band  of  parishioners  and  friends 
Whose  great  generosity  made  possible  this  pilgrimage; 
To  all  my  fellow  pilgrims  whom  I  shall  ever 
Hold  in  fond  regard; 

To  her  who  is  my  comrade  and  inspiration 

To  make  every  day  a  pilgrimage  to  some  Holy  Land; 

To  a  Christian  layman  whose  confidence  and 
Esteem  is  precious; 

To  a  little  girl  who  loves  me; 

To  all  these  and  many  others  this  volume  is 
Affectionately  dedicated. 


AUTHOR’S  NOTE* 

We  felicitate  ourselves  most  generously  on  being  able  to  launch  this 
volume  with  the  prestige  of  Dr.  W.  A.  Shelton’s  fine  introduction.  The 
honor  only  exceeds  the  personal  pleasure.  With  him  the  writer  has  enjoyed 
a  long  and  most  congenial  friendship.  We  feel  that  no  man  is  better  qualified 
for  speaking  on  the  subject  of  Palestine.  He  has  but  recently  spent  a  year 
in  the  Near  East  as  a  member  of  the  Chicago  University  Archaeological 
Expedition.  The  public  awaits  with  eagerness  the  appearance  of  a  promised 
volume  from  his  graphic  and  learned  pen. 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  subject  of  this  volume,  “A  Palestine  Pilgrimage,”  is  ever  of  com¬ 
pelling  interest  to  all  who  study  the  history  of  religion  or  interest  themselves 
in  those  things  which  have  to  do  with  the  development  of  civilization.  One 
might  be  neither  Christian  nor  Jew  nor  yet  a  Moslem,  all  of  which  have 
a  peculiar  interest  in  the  Land  and  each  of  which  holds  it  sacred,  but  yet 
if  he  have  any  concern  with  history  or  human  progress  he  would  still  be 
interested  in  the  cradle  of  the  great  issues  and  great  movements  which  have 
tremendously  influenced  the  world’s  ongoing.  To  the  three  great  faiths  of 
the  world  today  Palestine  remains  the  place  of  most  vital  interest  and  will 
continue  to  do  so  to  the  end  of  time.  Though  a  relatively  small  country, 
geographically  and  politically,  it  has  stood  for  five  thousand  years  as  “The 
Bridge  of  the  Nations,”  the  Pathway  of  the  Ancient  Civilizations,  and  the 
School  Room  in  which  God  prepared  His  people  for  their  great  mission  in 
the  world  and  in  which,  under  His  guidance,  the  foundations  of  all  law  and 
literature,  worth  while,  in  the  world  was  laid. 

Humanity  will  never  lose  interest  in  those  rugged  ways  over  which  the 
Patriarchs  walked  with  God  and  the  Prophets  traveled  up  and  down  de¬ 
nouncing  the  sins  of  kings  and  championing  the  cause  of  the  poor,  and 
over  which  walked  the  feet  of  Him  who  “taught  as  one  having  authority,” 
and  “spake  as  never  man  spake;”  the  place  where  the  infant  church  struggled 
until  it  conquered  and  the  kingdom  of  Christ  spread  out  to  the  uttermost 
parts  of  the  earth. 

Many  books  have  been  written  upon  the  subject,  but  they  are  ever  new 
andi  from  the  pen  of  the  many  v/e  get  a  better  vision  of  those  places  we 
long  to  see.  Peculiar  interest  attaches  to  the  Land  just  now  for  the  reason 
that  it  is  becoming  again  the  political  catspaw  that  it  was  for  the  first  four 
milleniums  of  human  history,  and  also  because,  for  the  first  time  in  five 
thousand  years,  there  appears  evidences  of  change,  and  when  in  this  change¬ 
less  land,  relentless  change  sets  in,  the  old  things  as  they  have  always 
been,  will  very  quickly  pass  away  and  the  tourist  of  the  future  will  be 
unable  to  see  them  as  they  were  in  those  days  of  deepest  human  interest. 

The  author  of  this  volume  has  long  been  my  friend  and  knowing  him  as 
I  do,  I  believe  that  he  is  peculiarly  fitted  for  the  task  of  producing  a  worth¬ 
while  book.  Few  men  are  better  qualified  to  see  the  Land  of  the  Book  than 
he.  Possessed  of  a  soul  so  sensitive  to  the  things  of  ethical  and  spiritual 
life,  quickened  by  the  dynamic  of  an  unbounded  enthusiasm,  he  is  able  to 
find  and  analyse  that  which  the  average  traveler  would  entirely  overlook. 
Gifted  in  the  use  of  good  English  and  untiring  in  industry,  he  is  capable  of 
making  others  see  that  which  he  has  seen.  “A  Palestine  Pilgrimage” 
should  have  a  most  hospitable  reception  in  the  field  of  travel  literature. 

W.  A.  SHELTON. 

Emory  University,  Ga. 

September  12,  1922. 


FOREWORD. 


For  years  we  had  dreamed  of  a  possible  pilgrimage  to  Palestine,  but 

the  proverbial  wolf  always  stood  too  close  to  the  door.  In  1921,  through 

the  exceeding  generosity  of  parishioners  and  friends,  a  door  of  opportunity 
opened  wide  and  with  unbounded  gratitude  we  entered.  Our  party  was  most 
congenial  and  from  start  to  finish  the  pilgrimage  was  one  continual 
kaleidoscopic  thrill  after  another.  We  toured  Syria,  Palestine,  and  Egypt, 
of  course  omitting  very  much  of  interest.  The  three  countries  are  discussed 
under  the  title  of  Palestine  because  they  have  been  interwoven  in  Israel’s 
genesis  and  development,  as  indeed  they  have  been  in  all  the  centuries  of 
history.  But  their  chief  interest  lies  in  that  Jehovah  here  enacted  the 
tragic  history  of  the  fittest  available  race  for  His  purpose — that  of  con¬ 
creting  certain  great  religious  ideals  in  a  nation’s  life  and  climaxing  the 

process  in  an  atonement  for  all  races  and  all  peoples.  Here  was  born  the 

Christ  of  God. 

We  confess  that  Palestine  had  always  been  partly  obscured  in  a  haze  of 
semi-mysticism,  half  earthly,  half  fairyland;  its  heroes,  demigods,  possessing 
some  faults,  to  be  sure,  but  too  valiant  and  too  good  “for  human  nature’s 
daily  food.”  Now  it  is  as  real  as  the  soil  of  our  nativity;  its  Esdraelon 
battleground  as  real  as  Valley  Forge  and  Bunker  Hill,  and  Joshua  and  David 
as  real  as  Washington  and  Pershing.  Its  battles  were  but  the  contests  of 
peoples  human  as  we  are,  restless  under  oppression  and  fighting  at  the 
behest  of  an  inner  urge  for  country,  for  God  as  they  conceived  Him,  and 
for  right  as  they  saw  it.  Even  the  beautiful  humanity  of  Jesus  stands  out 
in  a  living  light  of  reality  hitherto  unperceived.  We  heard  again  the  baby’s 
low  cry  at  Bethlehem,  followed  Him  to  Nazareth  and  traveled  over  Judean 
hills  and  Galilean  pathways  His  feet  had  sanctified,  wept  with  the  Holy 
Mother  beside  the  cross,  and  stood  with  the  wondering  eleven  on  Olivet’s 
brow,  and  looked  into  the  same  skies  His  ascending  form  had  entered. 

The  contour  of  the  country,  its  manners  and  customs,  its  seasons,  its 
harvests,  its  plants  and  animals,  especially  domestic;  its  streams,  wells, 
lakes,  hills  and  valleys,  its  tombs — all  these  survive  unchanged  and  over 
them  glimmers  still  the  same  Syrian  sun  that  set  for  Jacob  at  Beeroth,  that 
hung  above  Gibeon  for  Joshua’s  convenience,  and  that  rose  so  often  over 
the  brow  of  Neby  Sain  as  He,  the  skillful  young  Carpenter,  entered  His 
shop  for  the  day’s  toil.  All  this  makes  real  the  Book  and  the  Man  of  the 


Book  and  places  in  one  hand  of  the  sincere  student  a  trowel  for  erecting 
the  walls  of  Truth’s  temple,  and  in  the  other  a  sword,  two-edged,  for  fighting 
the  battles  of  the  Lord. 

Now  in  reading  or  discussing  an  event  we  see  it  in  its  physical  setting, 
including  relative  distances  and  local  coloring.  May  we  not  indulge  the 
hope  that  the  kind  reader  will  be  able  to  receive  in  some  measure  similar 
benefit  from  the  perusal  of  these  vagrant  chapters.  They  have  been  written 
with  primary  aim  to  serve  the  laity  in  giving  some  portion  of  intelligent 
background  for  the  study  of  the  Bible.  Palestine  is  the  Land  of  the  Book 
and  the  Bible  is  the  Book  of  the  Land  and  each  explains  and  complements 
the  other. 


“Go,  little  booke,  God  send  thee  good  passage, 
And  specially  let  this  be  thy  prayere, 

Unto  them  all  that  thee  will  read  or  hear, 
Where  thou  are  wrong,  after  their  help  to  call 
Thee  to  correct,  in  any  part  or  all.” 

Chaucer’s  Bell  Dame  sans  Mercie. 


Land  of  the  Sky 
Asheville,  N.  C. 

October,  1922.  E.  R.  W. 


CONTENTS 


Chapter  Page 

I  Beirut — The  Lebanons — Baalbek _  1 

II  Damascus _  15 

III  Hauran — Sea  of  Galilee _  27 

IV  Mount  of  Beatitudes — Cana  of  Galilee _  41 

V  Nazareth  and  Esdraelon _  51 

VI  Dothan — Samaria — Shechem _  65 

VII  Jacob’s  Well— Shiloh— Bethel _  77 

VIII  Entering  Jerusalem  _  87 

IX  Mt.  Zion — Church  of  Holy  Sepulcher _  99 

X  The  Temple  Area _  111 

XI  The  Wailing  Place — City’s  Environs _  125 

XII  Gethsemane — Olivet — Jerusalem  to  Jericho _ 139 

XIII  The  Jordan — The  Dead  Sea _ 153 

XIV  Bethlehem — Solomon’s  Pools — Hebron _  165 

XV  Palestine,  the  Old  and  the  New _  175 

XVI  Going  Down  Into  Egypt _ 187 

XVII  Gizeh — Heliopolis — Cheops — Sphinx  _ 197 

L’Envoy  _ 205 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


The  Author 

The  Big  Stone  at  Baalbek  .  _ 

Page 

Damascus 

_  __  11 

A  Bedouin  Family 

-  _  _  23 

Sunrise  on  Galilee 

_  __  _  29 

Tiberius  by  the  Lake 

_  33 

Mount  of  Beatitudes 

_  _  37 

The  Well  at  Cana 

_  _  43 

Fountain  of  the  Virgin,  Nazareth  „  _ _ _  _ 

_  _  53 

Esdraelon 

_  57 

Shechem 

69 

Jerusalem  and  Damascus  Gate  _ 

_  79 

The  Golden  Gate 

_  93 

The  Holy  Fire 

_  _ 103 

The  Mosque  of  Omar 

_  113 

The  Wailing  Place- 

_ _ 121 

Gordon’s  Calvary 

_  _  _  _  _ 129 

The  Big  Tree  in  Gethsemane 

.  _  _  137 

The  Mount  of  Olives 

_______  __  141 

The  Jordan  River 

_ 151 

Bethlehem  Today 

_  163 

The  Author  in  Costume  of  Sheik 

_  183 

The  Sphinx  and  Old  Cheops 


201 


CHAPTER  I. 

Beirut — The  Lebanons — Baalbek. 


% 


CHAPTER  I. 


Beirut — The  Lebanons — Baalbek. 

My  introduction  to  the  land  of  my  pilgi  image  was  strikingly  picturesque. 
At  Beirut,  Syria,  our  big  liner  being  of  too  heavy  draft  to  come  close  to 
the  dock  anchored  some  distance  away.  Hardly  had  she  come  to  a  stand¬ 
still  when  there  appeared  swarming  all  around  us  a  flotilla  of  small  craft 
that  seemed  to  rise  out  of  the  water.  Never  shall  I  forget  that  strange 
picture.  Such  a  motley  crowd!  Swarthy  cheeked  men  and  boys  dressed 
in  flowing  robes  of  many  colors,  some  with  gowns  fastened  at  the  waist 
by  a  loud  sash,  some  with  those  Asiatic  breeches  whose  posterior  bagging 
to  the  knees  would  hold  the  week’s  washing  for  an  average  American  family, 
some  with  European  suits  snowy  white.  All  wore  red  tarbousches  with  black 
tassels.  Such  a  Babel  of  voices!  A  multitude  of  hands  waiving  frantically, 
pushing,  struggling,  fighting,  to  get  nearest  to  the  gangway.  The  New  York 
stock  exchange  is  tame  compared  with  this  spectacle.  Some  were  there  to 
meet  tourists  whose  coming  was  expected,  some  to  greet  returning  loved  ones 
and  old  friends — and  of  such  were  most  of  the  passengers — ,some  to  sell 
fruit,  some  to  transport  baggage.  One  especially  handsome  fellow  standing 
erect  in  the  prow  of  a  pretty  boat  flying  a  red  pennant  attracted  our 
attention.  He  was  a  broad  shouldered,  well  dressed  man  above  middle 
life  with  swarthy  cheek  and  flashing  black  eye.  He  wore  a  blue  serge 
European  coat  over  a  spotlessly  white  Asiatic  skirt  that  reached  to  his 
ankles.  With  his  red  tarbousch  he  was  truly  red  and  white  and  blue. 
Listen.  He  is  speaking  perfectly  good  English.  Above  the  yelling  jargon 
he  is  calling  for  our  party.  Stepping  from  boat  to  boat  we  are  soon  seated 
with  him  while  the  expert  Syrian  oarsmen  with  measured  stroke  are  pulling 
for  the  wharf.  This  man  is  George  I.  Jallouk  of  Jallouk  Brothers,  pro¬ 
fessional  dragomen,  living  at  Jerusalem.  George,  as  we  all  affectionately 
called  him,  was  a  prince  of  good  fellows,  even  tempered,  kind,  attentive, 
considerate,  especially  chivalrous  and  thoughtful  of  our  feminine  companions. 
He  is  a  tiue  Christian  gentleman,  Episcopal  vestryman,  and  withal  the  best 
dragoman  in  Syria,  Palestine,  and  Egypt.  Taking  immediate  charge  of  us 
we  lacked  for  nothing.  Every  arrangement  for  transportation,  entertain¬ 
ment,  and  personal  convenience  had  been  anticipated.  He  seemed  to  know 
everybody;  they  seemed  to  know  him.  His  wish  was  law  and  to  him  all 


1 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


doors  were  open.  Fortunate  indeed  was  this  bunch  of  tenderfoots.  He 
stayed  close  by  us  until  the  Cleopatra  steamed  out  of  Alexandria  and  our 
last  view  of  the  dock  revealed  dear  old  George  waving  fond  adieus  to  his 
departing  friends.  Our  hearts  were  sad  for  we  might  never  see  him  again 
this  side  the  New  Jerusalem.  May  our  heavenly  Father  bless  our  friend, 
with  all  his  own,  and  may  he  be  spared  to  pilot  many  other  groups  with 
as  much  efficiency  and  attention  as  that  accorded  to  us. 

Owing  to  George’s  influence  with  the  custom  officers  our  baggage  was 
unmolested  and  soon  we  found  ourselves  in  lovely  rooms  at  the  Grand 
Hotel  de  Orient,  opening  out  toward  the  Mediterranean  expanse.  Soon 
dinner  (lunch)  was  announced  and  what  with  whetted  appetites  and  with 
appetizing  fare  we  did  full  justice  to  the  occasion.  There  is  no  better  time 
nor  place  than  this  to  state  that  at  every  place  we  tarried,  save  at  Shechem, 
which  was  passable,  the  hotels  were  surprisingly  good  and  the  appointments 
all  one  could  wish,  though  the  food  was  too  highly  seasoned  a  la  Franche. 
The  fruit  was  abundant  and  delicious. 

Beirut  is  the  chief  seaport  of  Syria,  and  is  a  city  of  two  hundred  thousano 
population.  It  is  located  on  the  south  side  of  the  beautiful  St.  George’s  bay 
on  the  western  slope  of  the  Lebanon  mountains  and  has  a  lovely  situation, 
especially  from  the  harbor  view.  Here  semi-European  fashions  prevail  and 
there  are  few  objects  of  special  interest. 

On  a  promontory  on  the  western  edge  of  the  city  is  its  most  valuable 
asset.  I  refer  to  the  great  American  College.  It  was  opened  in  1863  by  Dr. 
Daniel  Bliss,  who  remained  till  his  eightieth  year  when  he  was  succeeded  by 
his  son,  Dr.  Howard  Bliss,  who,  with  the  loyal  assistance  of  sympathetic 
friends  in  America,  built  up  an  institution  in  equipment  and  quality  of  work 
done  that  rivals  many  of  our  best  American  institutions.  He  but  recently 
passed  away.  The  lighthouse  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  campus  is  emblematic, 
for  this  Christian  college  is  a  beacon  light  over  all  the  vast  territory  between 
the  Ural  mountains  and  Abysinia.  Its  constant  student  body  of  one  thousand 
or  more  is  made  up  of  all  faiths,  including  Protestants,  Greek  and  Roman 
Catholics,  Jews,  Druses,  Bahias,  and  mostly  Mohammedans.  Forth  from  its 
walls  has  gone  in  all  these  years  a  steady  stream  of  culture  and  intellectual 
breadth  and  sympathy  that,  similar  to  Robert  College  at  Constantinople,  has 
produced  a  type  of  leaders  who  have  wonderfully  leavened  the  thinking  of 


2 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


all  this  vast  region  and  is  its  most  promising  hope  for  the  future.  We  met 
its  alumni  everywhere  and  their  faces  would  kindle  with  pride  as  they  volun¬ 
teered  the  information  of  their  former  connection  with  this  loved  institution. 

The  American  mission  has  been  operating  in  Syria  for  a  century  and 
there  are  today  more  than  one  hundred  schools  with  several  thousand  students. 
Here  at  Beirut  is  a  great  publishing  and  Bible  house  that  has  been  dis¬ 
seminating  western  Christian  ideals  for  many  years  and  its  influence  is  potent. 
Do  we  not  see  in  this  an  important  factor  in  the  plebiscite  of  1918  that  by 
an  overwhelming  majority  asked  that  the  Syrian  mandate  be  assigned  to 
America?  That  afternoon  we  visited  these  institutions  and  took  in  the  city 
generally  as  time  would  permit,  making  the  bazaars  where  we  purchased 
needed  toilet  articles  and  our  cork  hats,  for  which  we  had  frequent  occasion 
to  be  thankful  as  we  traversed  the  barren  mountainsides  and  valleys  with 
not  a  single  cloud  to  offer  its  friendly  shade.  Save  three  winter  months 
Jupiter  Pluvius  absents  himself  from  Palestine.  Immediately  following  this 
rainy  season  is  the  farming  period,  when  vegetation  is  luxuriant  and  flowers 
carpet  the  earth  with  profusive  variety  and  richness  of  color  and  shade  seen 
nowhere  else. 

Early  next  morning  we  climbed  into  high  powered  French  autos  and  struck 
out  eastward  over  the  Lebanons  toward  the  ruins  of  ancient  Baalbek. 
Thousands  of  feet  we  ascended  over  beautiful  macadam  roads  built  by  a 
French  company  in  1860  as  a  toll  road  from  Beirut  to  Damascus.  The  en¬ 
gineering  was  remarkable.  The  mountains  are  terraced  and  mulberry  groves, 
olive  orchards,  and  vineyards  abound.  Once  these  vast  declivities  were 
covered  with  splendid  oaks,  firs,  and  forests  of  cedars  unequaled  in  all  the 
world.  Here  Hiram,  king  of  Tyre,  cut  the  cedar  timbers  used  in  the  building 
of  Solomon’s  temple,  which  were  conveyed  in  floats  to  Joppa  and  thence  over¬ 
land  thirty  miles  to  Jerusalem.  From  here  came  the  choice  ship  timbers  of 
the  Egyptian  and  Phoenecian  navies,  as  well  as  the  interior  furnishings  of 
their  lordly  palaces.  Now  one  looks  in  vain  for  these  cedar  forests.  Only 
on  Mount  Baruk  does  there  remain  a  grove  of  four  hundred  trees,  called  by 
the  Maronite  peasants  “the  Cedars  of  the  Lord.”  One  called  “The  Guardian” 
seems  the  patriarch  of  the  four  hundred.  Its  twisted  and  gnarled  trunk, 
topped  by  an  evergreen  canopy,  betokens  that  he  weight  of  centuries  is  upon 
it  and  the  fury  of  thousands  of  storms  has  howled  among  its  branches,  and 
yet  it  stands  proudly  erect,  refusing  to  bow  its  kingly  head  though  it  stands 


3 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


a  lone  sentinel  over  a  vanishing  race.  Grand  old  monarch!  May  the  de¬ 
crepitude  of  age  be  long  in  finding  you.  May  you,  who  doubtless  heard  the 
echoing  ring  of  Hiram’s  axmen  in  the  days  long  gone,  be  still  standing  there 
when  the  stories  of  our  own  achievements  shall  become  the  hoary  legends 
of  the  past. 

We  are  now  halted  at  an  elevation  of  6,825  feet  in  the  pass  between  Mounts 
Kenneseyeh  on  the  north  and  Jebel  el  Baruk  on  the  south.  On  either  side  the 
mountain  is  gashed  into  wild  gorges  and  hollows.  Behind  us  is  Beirut,  i 
white  spot  on  a  green  background,  and  beyond  is  the  blue  Mediterranean  sea. 
Before  us  is  the  beautiful  valley  of  Coele  (hollow)  Syria,  watered  by  the 
famed  Litani  (Leontes)  and  its  tributary  creeks.  This  valley  is  seventy-five 
miles  long  and  averages  ten  miles  broad.  On  yon  side  lie  the  Anti-Lebanons, 
beyond  which  is  Damascus  and  the  vast  desert  beyond  and  beyond.  Soon  we 
pass  Zahleh,  a  Christian  town  of  16,000  people,  with  its  vineyards  and  babbling 
brook,  and  twenty  miles  up  to  the  northeast  we  hasten  forward  to  our  im¬ 
mediate  destination,  Baalbek,  where  we  arrive  at  1  p.  m.,  hot,  tired,  hungry. 

Baalbek  is  a  town  of  5,000  people  on  an  elevated  plain  near  the  head¬ 
waters  of  the  Orentes,  which  flows  northward,  and  the  Leontes,  which  flows 
southward.  Through  the  town  flows  a  most  refreshing  stream  which,  like 
the  Abana,  at  Damascus,  soon  loses  itself  beyond  the  city.  The  finest  orchards 
we  found  were  here,  chiefly  apricots  and  large,  juicy  plums.  In  the  large 
shaded  gardens  we  saw  groups  of  men  seeding  the  golden  apricots  and  rolling 
the  pulp  into  large  thin  cakes  which  were  dried  in  the  sun,  packed  into  bales, 
and  marketed  in  large  quantities  for  future  use  as  jam,  pies,  or  apricot 
juices.  A  diminutive  water  mill  in  this  garden  ground  the  community 
wheat.  Before  a  simple  stone  hut  was  a  Syrian  wife  baking  loaves  or  thin 
speckled  pancakes.  Her  oven  was  an  oblong  earthenware  jar  three  feet  deep 
and  two  feet  in  diameter  sunken  in  the  ground.  In  the  bottom  was  a  fire 
of  wood  coals  which  heated  the  smooth  sides  of  this  oven.  The  cakes  were 
plastered  against  the  walls  and  quickly  baked,  and  though  unseasoned,  are 
not  unpalatable  if  eaten  hot.  After  eating  a  portion  of  a  cake  which  was 
offered  me,  I  left,  smiling  my  thanks,  the  only  way  I  knew  to  express  my¬ 
self,  ignorant  of  the  universal  expectation  of  every  oriental  to  re¬ 
ceive  backshish  for  any  service  rendered,  however  trivial,  and  for  none. 
That  evening  who  should  appear  at  the  hotel  but  this  woman  and  describing 
my  appearance,  which  was  not  difficult,  being  constructed  on  Gothic  lines  of 


4 


The  Biggest  Stone  Ever  Quarried  by  Human  Hands. 


“Here  lies  this  Monarch  of  the  Quarries,  eloquent  of  ambitions  un- 
attained,  of  enterprises  uncompleted. ” 


5 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


architecture,  demanded  bakshish  for  the  bread  I  ate  that  afternoon,  worth 
perhaps  in  American  coin  one-fourth  of  a  cent.  Gallant  George  gave  her  a 
coin  and  sent  her  away  happy.  My  fellow  tourists  never  forgot  this  little 
episode,  ever  twisting  it  to  suit  the  occasion  until  it  finally  assumed  the  pro¬ 
portions  of  a  huge  joke  with  whiskers.  I  mention  it  simply  to  show  that 
bakshish  is  the  alpha  and  omega  of  oriental  travel.  The  babe  is  taught 
to  lisp  it  before  the  word  “Mama/’  and  his  dying  groan  is  for  bakshish. 
“Bakshish  opens  every  door,”  said  a  guide  to  me  in  Cairo,  and  it  is  true. 
Tourists  by  their  maudlin  sympathy  and  indiscriminate  gifts  have  pauperized 
the  populace.  However  the  horde  of  persistent  beggars  one  reads  about  as 
pestering  the  tourist  are  not  now  in  evidence,  thanks  to  the  new  and  rigid 
French  and  English  regime,  on  the  one  hand  assisting  these  paupers  and 
on  the  other  penalizing  their  professional  and  annoying  begging.  For  actual 
service  rendered  one  should  always  pay. 

Baalbek,  the  Syrian  “City  of  the  Sun,”  is  of  remote  and  uncertain  his¬ 
tory.  Situated  on  the  high  road  of  commerce  between  Tyre,  Palmyra,  and 
the  farther  east,  it  became  a  place  of  wealth  and  importance.  The  Greeks 
found  it  and  called  it  Heliopolis,  after  the  Heliopolis  near  Cairo,  from  which 
they  imported  its  gods.  The  Romans  under  Antoninus  Pius,  A.  D.  218-22, 
converted  it  into  a  gorgeous  Pantheon  with  temples  to  Jupiter,  Venus, 
Bacchus,  and  other  gods  and  goddesses.  The  Temple  of  Jupiter  was  one  of 
the  wonders  of  the  world.  Constantine  destroyed  these  false  worships  and 
in  390  A.  D.  the  emperor  Theodosias  I  transformed  the  temple  into  a  great 
church,  which  in  748  was  sacked  by  Moslem  Arabs  and  turned  into  a  fort. 
Thereafter  it  sank  into  neglect  and  decay.  Yet  it  is  majestic  in  its  ruins. 
The  first  and  most  prominent  object  one  sees  is  a  lofty  portico  of  the  Temple 
of  Jupiter,  of  six  massive  and  beautiful  columns.  At  a  distance  these  do 
not  appear  so  massive  but  on  a  nearer  view  are  colossal.  Including  foundation 
and  architrave  they  tower  200  feet  toward  the  sky.  Each  column  is  made 
of  three  separate  polished  shafts  joined  togeher  with  invisible  clasps  of  iron. 
Many  of  these  columns  are  perfectly  fluted,  this  being  done  after  erection 
The  Doric,  Tuscan,  and  Corinthian  orders  of  decoration  abound.  We  climbed 
a  spiral  staircase  beside  a  massive  door  overhung  by  a  broken  arch,  the  key¬ 
stone  of  which  was  half  displaced.  We  crossed  over  this  arch  and  up  into 
a  giant  tower  with  big  loopholes.  The  view  from  this  spot  is  overwhelming. 
There  are  fifty  acres  of  colossal  ruins;  titanic  columns  piled  every  way  upon 


7 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


each  other;  stones  weighing  a  thousand  tons  covering  vast  courts;  towers 
half  standing;  broken  columns  leaning  against  fragments  of  walls  high 
against  the  sky;  great  courts  hexagonal  and  rectangular;  smaller  circular 
temples  erected  to  some  minor  god;  votive  tablets,  empty  niches,  and  dilapi¬ 
dated  shrines;  immense  subterranean  vaults  hundreds  of  feet  long;  a  city 
of  ruined  temples  in  an  empire  of  vanished  glory.  What  a  tragic  comment 
on  the  vanity  of  mere  human  endeavor  and  the  pursuit  of  earthly  glory. 
Gone  are  the  monarchs  at  whose  command  these  temples  and  walls  arose. 
Faded  into  oblivion  are  their  puny  achievements.  Buried  are  the  tens  of 
thousands  of  slaves  on  whose  backs  arose  these  lordly  towers  and  walls.  The 
demolition  of  war  and  the  ravages  of  the  inexorable  centuries  have  covered 
the  ground  with  this  eloquent  wilderness  of  debris. 

“All  things  that  are  on  earth  shall  wholly  pass  away, 

Except  the  love  of  God,  which  shall  live  and  last  for  aye. 

The  forms  of  men  shall  be  as  they  had  never  been; 

The  blasted  groves  shall  lose  their  fresh  and  tender  green; 

#  ^  ^ 

And  realms  shall  be  dissolved,  and  empires  be  no  more; 

And  they  shall  bow  to  death  who  ruled  from  shore  to  shore; 

And  the  great  globe  itself  (so  the  holy  writings  tell), 

With  the  rolling  firmament,  where  the  starry  armies  dwell 
Shall  melt  with  fervent  heat — they  shall  all  pass  away, 

Except  the  love  of  God  which  shall  live  and  last  for  aye.” 

(Bryant.) 

Perhaps  the  object  of  chief  interest  to  the  tourists  is  the  cyclopen  wall. 
Here  twenty  feet  above  ground  are  three  big  stones  averaging  63  feet  in 
length,  12  by  14,  each  estimated  to  weigh  1,200  tons,  and  are  the  largest 
stones  ever  used  in  human  architecture.  How  they  were  transported  a  mlie 
from  the  quarry  and  elevated  twenty  feet  above  ground  can  only  be  surmised 
by  considering  the  vast  numbers  of  laborers  available  and  the  known  appli¬ 
cation  of  mechanical  means  for  proportionate  distribution  of  weight.  It  is 
supposed  that  a  gigantic  causeway  gradually  inclined  upward  and  upon  this 
the  stones  were  slidden.  In  turn  the  decoration  was  begun  at  the  top  and 
continued  downward  as  the  causeway  was  removed.  One  mile  distant  there 
lies  in  the  quarry  one  stone  more  colossal  than  all  the  rest.  It  is  71  feet 
long,  14  by  17,  and  weighs  1,800  tons,  estimated,  and  is  the  biggest  stone 
ever  quarried  by  human  hands.  It  is  not  quite  detached  from  its  base.  No 
one  can  opine  its  contemplated  location  or  explain  the  manner  of  its  trans¬ 
portation.  Here  lies  this  monarch  of  the  quarries  unmoved  by  the  vicissitudes 


8 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


of  the  revolving  centuries,  eloquent  of  ambitions  unattained,  of  enterprises 
incompleted.  No  tourist  can  afford  to  visit  Syria  without  Baalbek,  and  no 
Baalbek  visitor  will  fail  to  pay  his  compliments  to  this  prostrate  king  of 
human  architecture. 


The  City  of  Damascus,  Mother  of  Cities,  Gateway  of  the  East,  City  of 
Minarets  and  Musical  Muezzins,  of  Unflagging  Interest  and 
Unflagging  Change  and  Charm. 


11 


CHAPTER  II. 


Damascus. 


CHAPTER  II. 


Damascus. 

Over  the  Antilebanons  from  Baalbek  we  journeyed  with  a  crippled  motor 
and  an  enforced  wait  of  two  hours  at  Reyak  while  our  Syrian  chauffeur  got 
down  and  under.  Here  were  trees  and  orchards  and  a  fine  transparent 
stream,  a  branch  of  the  Litani.  Thence  we  descended  on  a  winding  road 
through  Zebadani  where  we  first  met  the  Barada  (the  Abana  of  II  Kings  5:12), 
thence  through  a  beautiful  valley.  We  passed  a  recent  battlefield  where, 
owing  to  the  well  stationed  guns  of  one  of  General  Allenby’s  divisions,  the 
mountain  gorge  was  filled  with  dead  Turkish  soldiers.  Twenty-three  well 
kept  graves  in  a  little  military  cemetery  indicated  the  number  of  English 
fatalities.  Soon  we  passed  through  Dummar,  the  summer  resort  of  rich 
Damascenes,  and  now  we  suddenly  emerge  into  the  open  and  gaze  for  the 
first  time  on  the  age  old  city  of  Damascus,  mother  of  cities,  gateway  of 
the  east,  city  of  minarets  and  of  musical  muezzins,  of  unflagging  interest 
and  kaleidoscopic  change  and  charm.  Out  from  a  sea  of  green  rise  num¬ 
erous  domes  and  minarets — upstanding  sentinels  of  a  cruel  pagan  faith 
and  ultra  fanatic  zeal. 

Damascus  is  called  the  “Mother  of  cities”  because  it  has  the  oldest  con¬ 
tinuous  existence  of  any  city  on  earth.  Jerusalem  in  the  days  of  Melchizedek 
was  perhaps  older,  yet  there  was  a  time  from  A.  D.  70  to  A.  D.  130  when 
it  was  naught  but  a  pile  of  forsaken  ruins.  Tradition  says  that  Damascus 
was  founded  by  Uz,  the  son  of  Canaan,  the  grandson  of  Noah  whose  descend¬ 
ants  after  the  flood  peopled  the  fertile  and  picturesque  Lebanons  and  later 
the  plains  of  Syria  and  became  the  supposed  ancestors  of  the  Syrian  people. 
The  first  mention  we  have  of  the  city  is  in  Gen.  14  where  it  is  stated  that 
Eliezer,  Abraham’s  steward,  dwelt  there,  giving  it  an  antiquity  of  at  least 
4,000  years.  Heroditus  says  it  is  older  than  Abraham.  After  passing  suc¬ 
cessively  under  the  dominion  of  the  Israelites,  Persians,  Greeks,  and  Ro¬ 
mans,  it  fell  at  last  in  1516  into  the  hands  of  the  Turks  where  it  remained 
till  1918. 

It  is  called  the  “Gateway  of  the  East”  because  the  main  highway  of  the 
ages  from  Messapotamia,  Persia,  and  the  vast  east,  to  Tyre,  the  Mediterran¬ 
ean  coast  cities,  and  to  Egypt  passed  through  Damascus.  It  is  still  an  im- 


15 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


portant  caravan  route,  although  the  Bagdad  railway,  connected  at  Aleppo 
with  Damascus  and  Beirut,  handles  much  of  this  commerce.  Yet  many  long 
and  picturesque  caravan  trains  slowly  creep  across  the  stretches  of  the  desert 
route  laden  with  the  cashmeres,  the  carpets,  and  riches  of  the  east.  To  say 
that  we  saw  hundreds  of  caravans  is  not  an  extravagance. 

It  is  called  the  “City  of  Minarets”  because  out  of  a  population  of  300,000, 
three  fourths  of  them  are  Mohammedans.  Hence  the  city  is  filled  with 
mosques  and  towering  minarets  and  from  each  minaret  five  times  a  day  the 
muezzin  chants  his  cry  out  over  the  city,  “Allah  Akbar,  Allah  akbar,”  etc., 
“To  prayers,  to  prayers,  O  ye  followers  of  Allah.  There  is  but  one  God 

and  Mohammed  is  his  prophet.”  At  once  a  truth  and  a  lie.  Within  100 
feet  of  our  room  in  the  Damascus  Palace  hotel  there  was  a  mosque.  At  5 
A.  M.,  the  first  call  floated  out  over  the  city.  From  minaret  to  minaret  the 
sound  was  caught  up  and  in  a  trice  the  whole  city  was  vibrant  with  the  call 
from  300  minarets.  Description  of  its  impressiveness  is  impossible.  These 
muezzins  are  trained  from  childhood  and  are  often  blind,  since  their  eleva¬ 
tion  above  the  city  could  enable  them  to  see  too  much  of  the  home  life. 
Their  tenor  voices  are  mellow  and  sonorious.  It  floats  out  like  the  sad 
wail  of  a  lost  soul.  Indeed  it  is  the  wail  of  a  lost  multitude,  numbering  to¬ 
day  two  hundred  and  fifty  millions,  too  blind  to  see  the  light  and  too  fanat¬ 
ically  arrogant  to  admit  its  lost  estate.  Mohammedanism  presents  the 
hardest  problem  for  Christian  missions  to  solve.  Yet  it  will  be  solved.  Here 
in  Damascus  in  1860  six  thousand  Christians  were  murdered  and  twenty 
thousand  were  exiled  from  their  homes.  But  today  one  may  not  fear.  The 
times  are  changing  and  French  soldiers  are  everywhere  in  evidence.  All  the 
mosques  are  open  for  inspection  provided  you  pull  on  big  flapping  overshoes 
and  are  liberally  supplied  with  bakshish.  We  did  not  see  here  or  elsewhere 
many  worshippers.  In  1914  Dr.  Rowland,  our  conductor,  was  here  and  he 
is  of  the  opinion  that  they  have  decreased  more  than  fifty  per  cent  during 
that  time.  The  Great  Mosque,  or  Omalyade,  is  the  only  one  worth  visiting. 
It  is  one  of  the  four  famous  mosques  of  the  Moslem  world,  the  other  three 
being  the  Mosque  of  Omar  at  Jerusalem,  the  Alabaster  Mosque  at  Cairo,  and 
the  Mosque  of  St.  Sophia  at  Constantinople.  All  but  the  last  mentioned  we 
visited.  The  Great  Mosque  is  of  uncertain  history.  At  first  it  was  a  Chris¬ 
tian  church,  then  a  heathen  temple,  and  at  last  a  Moslem  Mosque.  A  noble' 


16 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


inscription  on  the  south  door  dating  from  its  earliest  usage  has  remained 
unmolested.  It  is  a  quotation  of  Psalms  145:13:  “Thy  kingdom,  O  Christ, 
is  an  everlasting  kingdom,  and  thy  dominion  endureth  forever.”  It  has 
escaped  the  deletion  of  moslem  fanaticism  because  it  is  carved  in  Greek  and 
they  could  not  interpret  it.  Some  day  it  will  disappear.  But  its  sentiment 
is  true  and  ominously  prophetic  of  the  final  ascendency  of  the  cross  over 
the  crescent.  Outwardly  the  building  is  unprepossessive  but  is  inwardly 
elegant.  The  marble  floors  are  covered  with  finest  Persian  rugs  forty  feet 
square  worth  $50,000  each.  These  are  donated  by  the  Sultans  and  ruling 
Caliphs  of  the  past  and  present.  Each  on  coming  into  power  is  expected 
to  make  a  princely  donation  to  one  or  all  of  the  leading  mosques.  It  was 
partially  destroyed  by  fire  in  1893  but  the  walls  still  show  mother-of-peari 
inlaid  work  of  marvelous  beauty  on  a  background  of  mahogany.  The  ma¬ 
jestic  dome  with  a  million  lines  of  mosaic  tracery  of  vines  and  foliage  beg¬ 
gars  all  description.  On  the  north  wall  are  glass  mosaics  as  old  as  the  tenth 
century.  In  the  transept  of  a  chapel  is  the  reputed  tomb  of  John  the  Bap¬ 
tist,  whose  head,  said  to  have  been  found  by  the  conqueror  Khalid  in  the 
crypt  of  the  old  church,  lies  buried  here.  Above  the  gorgeous  tomb  hangs 
a  golden  crescent.  However,  there  is  no  evidence  whatever  as  to  this  claim. 
The  surprising  thing  is  that  Moslems  should  thus  revere  a  Christian  Saint. 
But  the  oriental  is  deeply  religious  and  reverential.  Mohammed  placed 
Jesus  next  to  him  in  a  line  of  great  prophets  and  teachers.  And  the  super¬ 
stitious  reverence  for  Mohammed  and  his  celebrated  feats  enables  them  to 
give  partial  credence  to  the  miraculous  performances  of  Jesus.  Hence  with 
fanatical  zeal  they  have  preserved  inviolate  many  of  the  sacred  places  of 
Palestine  and  have  gone  so  far  as  to  manufacture  many  others  ascribed  to 
lesser  saints.  Catholicism,  Greek  and  Roman,  has  done  likewise  and  to 
these  two  divergent  faiths  is  due  the  paradoxical  fostering  and  preserva¬ 
tion  of  sacred  shrines  and  relics,  real  and  imaginary. 

The  beauty  of  Damascus  is  proverbial.  It  is  a  pearl  with  emerald  setting, 
a  wilderness  of  fragrant  bloom  and  luscious  fruitage  where  olive  and  pome¬ 
granate,  orange  and  apricot,  plum,  fig,  olive  and  walnut,  commingle  their 
shades  of  green.  The  city  is  the  lordly  gift  of  the  Barada,  as  Egypt  is  the 
gift  of  the  Nile.  The  Barada  rises  23  miles  to  the  north  west  of  the  city. 
It  gushes  out  from  the  side  of  a  limestone  mountain  and  plunges  to  the 
desert  below.  At  Damascus  it  divides  into  seven  streams.  Artificial  aque- 

17 

-i. 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


ducts  carry  its  waters  to  every  garden  and  home  in  the  city.  Virtually  all 
of  its  water  is  consumed  and  but  a  few  miles  due  east  the  meager  rem¬ 
nant  loses  itself  in  the  sands  of  the  near-by  desert.  How  like  the  true  Chris¬ 
tian  life  in  its  abundant  self-giving  and  self-losing. 

We  stood  on  a  platform  made  in  1898  for  the  German  Kaiser  to 
stand  upon  to  view  the  city.  It  is  on  the  southwestern  edge  and  partially 
up  the  side  of  the  mountain.  From  here  the  city  takes  the  shape 
of  a  spoon,  the  long  handle  protruding  two  miles  to  the  southeast.  The 
white  buildings  appearing  among  the  groves  of  green  remind  one  of  an 
emerald  scarf  splashed  with  alabaster.  Just  behind  and  above  us  is  Moham¬ 
med’s  landing  place  where  he  won  the  world’s  championship  for  broad  and  high 
jumping.  It  is  recounted  to  you  in  all  seriousness  that  he  came  to  Kasum, 
12  miles  to  the  east  of  the  city,  and  from  the  rocky  hill  there  he  saw  Da¬ 
mascus  for  the  first  time.  He  remarked  that  it  was  not  given  to  any  man 
to  behold  but  one  Paradise  and  that  he  preferred  the  heavenly  one.  Closing 
his  eyes  he  sprang  into  the  air,  leaped  over  the  city  and  landed  on  the 
top  of  Jeb  Kaysem,  1,000  feet  high.  That  was  some  jump,  worthy  of  a 
special  edition  of  the  Saturday  Blade  but  as  far  as  the  limited  knowledge 
of  the  writer  goes  that  famous  sheet  has  ignored  this  remaikable  feat.  One 
is  reminded  of  an  instance  that  occurred  in  west  Texas.  A  cyclone  had  de¬ 
molished  a  man’s  home  and  had  blown  him  twenty  miles  in  less  t.me  than 
it  takes  to  tell  it.  Strange  to  say  he  was  not  killed.  Next  day  his  pastor 
found  him  and  remarked:  “Brother,  I  trust  the  good  Lord  was  with  you.” 
The  man  replied:  “Well,  if  he  was  he  sure  was  going  some.”  So  was  brother 
Mohammed. 

But  by  far  the  most  fascinating  feature  of  Damascus  is  its  versatile  hu¬ 
man  life  and  its  accompaniments.  Here  are  native  Syrians  in  abundance,  of 
course,  but  also  Nubians,  Egyptians,  Jews,  Persians  with  bales  of  costly 
merchandise,  swarthy  bedouins  with  their  camels,  tourists  with  cork  hats, 
French  soldiers  in  uniform,  men  and  women,  old  and  young,  children  well 
dressed  and  tattered,  all  jostling  along  the  narrow  streets.  Add  to  this 
human  throng  the  many  plucky  little  donkeys  with  burdens  heavier  than 
their  own  weight,  camels  wabbling  along  patiently,  if  not  gracefully,  with 
astonishingly  large  cargoes,  sheep  and  goats,  dogs  and  chickens.  Consider 
also  the  endless  variety  of  garments  of  all  the  colors  of  Joseph’s  coat,  of  all 
fashions  and  of  none — shawls,  coats,  long  and  short,  oriental  and  western. 


18 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


heavy  overcoats  in  tropical  noon,  trouseurs  bagging  down  behind  unspeak¬ 
ably  grotesque,  turbans,  tarbousches,  western  straws,  tourists  hats;  Mos¬ 
lem  women  in  black  with  veiled  faces,  their  black  bewitching  eyes  peeking 
out  from  under  the  lifted  corner  of  the  veil  as  you  pass,  and  wearing  red  slip¬ 
pers,  tan  hosiery,  and  ankle  bracelets.  Think  of  the  babel  of  discordant  sounds 
— the  cucumber  barker  with  his  donkey,  the  camel  driver  shouting  “Yallah, 
yallah,”  the  candy  seller  with  his  tray,  the  bread  seller  crying  “Ya  karim, 
ya  karim” — “Gift  of  the  bountiful  one.”  The  water  carrier  artfully  rat¬ 
tling  his  brass  cups,  crying  out  “Ishrub  ya’  atshan,  Ishrub  ya’  atshan” — 
“Drink,  0  thirsty”;  the  old  clothes  auctioneer  crying  his  sales,  the  postcard 
hawker  and  the  antique  waresman — all  this  mingled  with  the  bleating  of 
sheep  and  goats,  the  crowing  of  cocks,  the  growl  of  the  camels,  the 
bark  of  the  dogs,  the  horn  of  the  busses,  the  rattling  of  their  wheels  over 
the  cobble  stones,  and  above  it  all  the  muezzin’s  call  “to  prayers,  to  pray¬ 
ers” — all  this  and  much  more  gives  but  a  faint  moving  picture  of  Damas¬ 
cus  life. 

One  never  tires  of  making  the  Bazarrhs  where  everything  is  sold  from 
a  jack-knife  to  a  camel.  All  the  stores  handling  a  certain  article  are  seg¬ 
regated.  For  instance,  all  the  silk  stores  are  in  the  silk  bazarrh.  There 
are  bazarrhs  for  the  sale  of  carpets,  saddlery  and  harness,  old  clothes,  sil¬ 
ver  and  jewelry,  tobacco,  including  pipes,  footwear,  and  many  others.  The 
stores  are  mere  stalls  on  the  side  of  these  narrow  streets.  The  doors 
disappear,  either  pushed  into  the  side  or  raised  upward,  leaving  the  whole 
front  open.  The  goods  are  piled  on  the  floor  and  on  shelves.  The  merchant 
sits  cross-legged  on  the  floor  indifferently  smoking  his  tchibouk.  The  mo¬ 
ment  you  pause  to  inspect  an  article  he  is  all  vivacity  and  politeness,  and 
you  will  not  escape  without  a  purchase.  Should  you  really  wish  to  buy  an 
article  you  are  in  for  a  barrel  of  fun.  Be  prepared  for  a  price  five  times  whai 
he  will  finally  accept.  You  feign  indifference,  shake  your  head,  lift  your 
hands  in  holy  horror  at  such  a  price,  and  start  away.  He  follows  and  drops 
the  price.  Back  and  forth  you  have  it.  He  finally  puts  the  article  awiy 
in  injured  innocence.  Be  not  discouraged.  The  article  is  yours.  You  may 
be  allowed  to  get  fifty  feet  away,  but  he  will  soon  be  tugging  at  your  sleeve 
with  the  article  in  his  hands.  He  has  reconsidered  and  since  you  will  be  in 
the  city  several  days  and  will  doubtless  call  to  see  him  several  times  and 
will  influence  others  to  do  likewise,  he  will  condescend  to  accommodate  you. 


19 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


with  this  rare  bargain,  assuring  you  that  many  such  deals  will  make  of 
him  a  pauper.  Don’t  worry  as  to  that.  He  has  made  a  large  profit. 

There  are  so  many  beautiful  and  elegant  articles  one  would  purchase;  the 
most  exquisite  lace  and  embroidery,  filigree  silver  work,  brass  and  inlaid 
mosaics  unexcelled  in  all  the  world,  carpets  by  the  acre,  rugs  worth  a 
thousand  dollars,  bric-a-brac  of  all  kinds, — but  means  are  limited,  as  is  also 
the  amount  of  baggage,  and  the  United  States  custom  duties  are  prohibi¬ 
tive. 

Our  visit  to  the  celebrated  brass  works  was  most  enjoyable.  Rare  artist3 
were  tracing  delicate  lines  of  carving,  or  inlaying  on  finest  wood  and 
metal,  mother-of-pearl  and  silver  wire.  Everything  is  made  from  a  ciga¬ 
rette  case  to  a  bed  room  suite.  Our  pleasure  was  marred  by  the  spectacle 
of  100  little  orphans  from  a  near-by  Syrian  orphanage  who  were  laboring 
with  great  industry  and  expertness  and  lifting  up  on  their  little  backs  the 
vast  fortune  of  this  Syrian  gentleman  (?)  who  has  become  a  millionaire. 
No  wonder  their  little  hands  reached  out  to  us  and  their  little  voices  stam¬ 
mered  “backshish,  backshish.”  We  were  taken  into  this  man’s  house.  Ic 
was  a  palace  that  would  fit  into  some  of  the  descriptions  of  Arabian  Nights. 

The  street  called  Straight,  the  most  famous  street  in  the  orient,  bisects 
the  city,  running  due  east  and  west  for  one  mile.  In  the  palmy  days  of 
Roman  occupation  this  ancient  Champs  Elysees  was  a  wide  and  eleganf 
boulevard  paved  and  bordered  with  parks  and  colonades  behind  which  were 
the  dwellings  of  the  rich  and  prosperous.  On  this  boulevard  dwelt  Judas, 
the  friend  of  Saul  of  Tarsus,  and  the  location  of  his  residence  on  this 
street  establishes  his  financial  and  social  rating  and  is  an  incidental  com¬ 
ment  on  the  status  of  the  cultured  deciple  of  the  renowned  Gamaliel.  Today 
the  street  is  narrow  and  dark.  It  is  covered  over  for  some  distance  with 
American  galvanized  iron  in  semi-oval  form  with  occasional  openings  for 
light  and  ventilation.  An  ancient  Roman  triple  gate,  called  St.  Paul’s  Gate, 
is  the  eastern  terminus.  Two  of  the  three  are  closed.  Inside  and  near  this 
gate  is  the  Christian  Quarter,  plain  and  unpretentious,  while  just  outside  and 
to  the  north  of  this  gate  is  shown  the  house  of  Naaman  the  Captain  of  the 
hosts  of  Asyria,  whose  leprosy  was  immediately  cured  by  obedience  to  the 
command  of  the  prophet  Elisha.  This  site  is  now  a  leper  colony.  South  of 
this  gate  on  the  dilapidated  wall  is  shown  the  house  and  window  through 


20 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


which  Saul  escaped  from  the  wrath  of  the  governor  under  King  Aretas.  De¬ 
spite  the  flight  of  twenty  centuries  you  are  expected  to  believe  that  this  is 
the  identical  house  and  window,  even  the  iron  crossbars  that  cover  it.  Saul 
must  have  been  a  pygmy  indeed.  These  openings  are  not  more  than  eight 
inches  square  at  best.  Across  the  road  is  a  fine  walled  garden  of  Englisii 
walnuts  in  which  is  shown  the  tomb  of  St.  George  of  dragon  slaying  fame. 
He  is  said  to  have  assisted  in  Saul’s  escape,  perhaps  holding  the  twine 
string  on  which  the  lunch  basket  containing  this  little  man  was  fastened. 
St.  George  seems  to  have  been  buried  also  at  Lydda,  perhaps  at  other  places. 
Requiescat  in  Pace.  Inside  the  gate  and  on  the  east  side  of  a  short  street 
to  the  north  is  the  house  of  Ananias,  whom  the  Lord  sent  to  lead  the  future 
apostle  into  the  light.  Strange  to  relate,  no  one  offered  for  sale  any  of  the 
scales  from  Saul's  eyes.  The  supply  was  presumably  exhausted,  pro  tern. 
This  house  of  Ananias  is  a  small  Catholic  chapel  some  twenty  feet  under 
ground.  Many  great  men  have  visited  Damascus  in  its  long  and  varied 
history,  but  none  who  have  so  mightily  affected  the  stream  of  human  thought 
and  life  as  Saul  of  Tarsus.  Many  great  events  have  transpired  within  its 
walls,  but  none  so  potent  and  significant  to  the  unfolding  centuries  as  the 
conversion  of  this  brilliant  and  scholarly  personality.  For  he,  by  his  heroic 
life  and  prolific  sacred  writings,  has  typed  the  religious  thought  and  life 
of  the  ages  and  will  continue  to  do  so  in  ever  increasing  measure  until  the 
kingdoms  of  this  world  shall  become,  as  he  predicted,  the  kingdoms  of  our 
God  and  his  Christ.  In  that  grand  consummation  you  and  I,  dear  reader, 
may  have  an  humble  portion  if  we  will. 


21 


“Before  their  black 
thirty  minutes.” 


A  Typical  Bedouin  Family 

goat’s  hair  tent  which  can  be 


struck  and  away  in 


23 


CHAPTER  III. 


Hauran — Sea  of  Galilee, 


CHAPTER  III. 


Hauran — Sea  of  Galilee. 

After  several  days  in  this  oldest  and  strangest  of  cities,  every  moment 
of  which  was  thrillingly  fascinating,  we  boarded  the  French  railway  train  ac 
the  Beramke  station  for  the  Sea  of  Galilee.  The  trains  run  tri-weekly. 
There  are  three  classes  of  coaches.  The  first  is  fairly  comfortable,  the  second 
is  barely  passable,  the  third  is  unthinkable.  George  had  arranged  first- 
class  passage  and  a  big  basket  of  lunch  with  good  water  and  at  seven  a.  m. 
we  slowly  pulled  out  of  Damascus.  Nine  hours  later  we  detrained  at  our 
immediate  destination.  The  proverbial  “slow  train  through  Arkansas”  must 
yield  the  palm  to  this  Hauran  road.  We  stopped  at  every  camel  path  and 
crossing,  once  to  let  a  bunch  of  camels  get  off  the  track  and  once  to  ac¬ 
commodate  a  baby  donkey.  However,  our  company  was  congenial  and  jovial 
and  the  Hauran  plains,  ancient  Bashan,  were  interesting.  They  resemble 
the  plains  of  west  Texas  and  are  the  grain  producing  areas  of  Syria.  Once 
they  were  covered  with  forests  of  magnificent  oaks  and  dotted  with  populous 
cities.  Here  reigned  Og,  king  of  Bashan,  and  here  bellowed  the  “bulls  of 
Bashan”  of  Ps.  26,  the  Scriptural  type  of  unreined  ambiion  and  cruelty. 
This  is  the  “Desert  of  Arabia”  to  which  Saul  resorted  for  three  years.  See 
Gal.  1.  It  was  a  land  of  beauty  and  of  great  productivity.  The  Rephaim  or 
giants  peopling  this  vast  region  terrified  Israel  constantly.  High  walls  and 
barred  gates  surrounded  the  cities.  Its  conquest  was  begun  by  Moses  at 
Edrei  and  completed  by  Jair  many  years  later  in  the  capture  of  Argob. 
Literally  tens  of  thousands  of  camels  graze  these  plains.  The  Bedouin  camel 
herder  pays  the  Hauran  farmer  for  the  privilege  of  grazing  the  wheat  stubble 
which  he  formerly  confiscated.  At  all  the  stations  apparently  the  whole 
population  met  the  train  and  we  had  ample  opportunity  to  scrutinize  them. 
The  road  runs  near  the  desert  and  these  were  typical  Arabs.  They  are  usually 
smiling  and  in  friendly  humor  but  are  capable  of  great  treachery  and  cruelty. 
Above  is  shown  the  picture  of  a  typical  Bedouin  family  before  their  black 
goat’s  hair  tent,  which  can  be  struck  and  away  in  thirty  minutes.  The 
father  is  reasonably  prosperous  and  the  mother  would  be  considered  a  Bedouin 
beauty.  These  desert  women  as  a  rule  are  slovenly,  haggard,  and  un¬ 
attractive,  and  the  proverbial  raven  haired  beauty  with  dark  eyes,  pearly 
teeth,  and  hypnotic  charm  exists  mostly  in  the  novels.  Her  slavish  devotion 


27 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


to  her  lord  with  the  austerities  of  desert  life  has  left  the  disfiguring  marks 
upon  her  form  and  feature.  I  am  reminded  of  the  story  of  Abdalla.  He  was 
a  young  sheik  and  according  to  prevailing  custom  his  wife  was  selected  by 
the  elders  of  his  tribe.  In  this  instance  she  was  the  daughter  of  a  distant 
sheik  and  Abdalla  had  never  seen  her.  She  was  brought  to  the  village  and 
assigned  a  tent  next  that  of  her  bridegroom.  Soon  after  he  visited  her  he 
emerged  from  her  tent  wailing  at  the  heighth  of  his  voice  and  laying  hand¬ 
fuls  of  dirt  upon  his  disconsolate  head.  A  neighbor  sheik  had  come  over  to 
felicitate  him  and  found  him  thus  lamenting.  All  Abdalla  would  say  to  him 
was,  “0,  you  just  ought  to  see  her,  you  just  ought  to  see  her.”  “Cheer  up, 
cheer  up,”  said  his  friend,  “it  surely  is  not  so  bad  as  all  that.”  Abdalla 
pointed  to  the  tent  and  said,  “O,  you  just  ought  to  see  her.  Go  lift  the  flap 
of  the  tent  and  look  upon  her.”  The  friend  did  so  and  came  back.  All  he 
had  to  say  was,  “Lay  on  more  dirt,  Abdalla,  lay  on  more  dirt." 

Reaching  Mezerib  at  two  p.  m.,  we  took  a  branch  line  leading  to  Haifa, 
a  port  on  the  Mediterranean  coast  north  of  Joppa,  leaving  the  train  at 
Semakh  on  the  southeast  shore  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee.  Soon  we  began  a 
tortucus  descent  of  more  than  three  thousand  feet  in  the  sixty  miles,  fo’1- 
lowing  the  river  Yarmuk,  which  enters  the  Jordan  five  miles  south  of  the 
sea.  The  engineering  of  this  descent  is  of  the  very  finest.  Through  twenty 
tunnels  in  as  many  miles,  creeping  along  the  rim  of  a  mountain,  spanning 
high  bridges,  past  beautiful  cascades,  down,  down  we  dropped  toward  Galilee 
six  hundred  eighty  feet  below  sea  level.  These  jagged,  chasmic  basalt  hills 
were  streaked  with  paths  made  by  the  feet  of  many  flocks  which  we  con¬ 
tinuously  saw  grazing  on  the  dry  grass  or  resting  under  the  side  of  a  hill  by 
some  quiet  pool,  reminding  us  forcibly  of  the  twenty-third  Psalm.  Many 
of  these  paths  led  upward  to  some  cave  in  the  mountainside  which  is  the 
sheepfold  of  these  wild  regions.  Soon  we  pass  Umkeis,  the  Gadara  of  Christ's 
day,  situate  on  a  high  hill  above  our  heads,  over  a  high  bridge  which  had 
recently  been  partially  burned  by  Arabs,  and  at  four  p.  m.  we  sweep  into 
pretty  little  plain  and  gaze  for  the  first  time  on  “sweet  Galilee  where  Jesus 
loved  so  much  to  be,”  the  object  of  our  pleasurable  anticipations.  As  we 
beheld  it  our  hearts  filled  with  emotion  and  our  eyes  with  tears.  Board¬ 
ing  a  naphtha  launch  carrying  a  hundred  passengers  we  were  soon  skipping 
over  its  cobalt  bosom  with  a  chug-chug  that  made  one  think  of  home. 

Apart  from  its  associations  this,  the  world's  most  celebrated  body  of 


28 


Sunrise  on  Galilee. 

“The  whole  face  of  the  cloud  .shone  with  amber  and  gold  and  crimson 
and  it  appeared  as  a  crystal  screen  holding  back  the  sapphire  depths  of  the 
glory  world  insistent  on  breaking  through  for  our  especial  delight.” 


29 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


water,  would  be  beautiful  indeed,  but  considering  its  intimate  relation  to  the 
Man  of  Galilee  who  performed  most  of  his  works  upon  or  around  it,  its 
physical  beauty  becomes  enhanced  and  spiritualized  and  incomparable.  It  is 
five  miles  in  width  and  thirteen  in  length,  is  of  pear  shape,  the  large  part 
being  at  the  upper  or  northern  end.  It  is  simply  a  wide  place  in  the  Jordan, 
which,  including  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  intervening  sixty  miles  of  valley,  is 
but  an  ancient  split  in  the  geological  formation  and  is  the  deepest  ditch  in 
the  world.  It  rises  thirty-two  miles  north  and  at  the  ancient  Bethsaida 
enters  the  sea  with  its  dark  muddy  stream  to  leave  it  thirteen  miles  south 
clear  and  sparkling.  The  sea  is  surrounded  by  hills  a  thousand  feet  high 
that  slope  away  from  the  shore  line  in  every  direction.  At  the  time  of  our 
visit  these  hills  were  barren  and  somber  and  gray,  but  in  the  springtime 
they  are  clothed  with  luxuriant  verdure  bespeckled  with  many  varieties  of 
bloom.  As  we  sailed  under  the  western  shore  the  sun  was  disappearing  and 
the  opposite  hills  took  on  tne  tints  of  lilac  and  lavender  and  brown. 

“The  gathering  orange  stain 
Upon  the  edge  of  yonder  western  peak 
Reflects  the  sunsets  of  a  thousand  years.” 

This  ride  of  an  hour  and  a  half  will  be  treasured  forever. 

Reaching  Tiberius  we  were  assigned  to  pleasing  rooms  and  soon  came 
supper.  A  long  table  spanning  a  spacious  dining  hall  was  laden  with  fruit, 
chiefly  figs,  fried  chicken,  and  fish  just  taken  from  the  Lake.  Tell  it  not  in 
Gath,  but  for  once  in  a  lifetime  this  Methodist  itinerant  turned  down  fried 
chicken.  Who  would  not  have  done  so?  Fried  chicken  is  to  be  had  any  day 
at  home,  but  once  only  came  the  opportunity  of  eating  fish  from  the  Sea  of 
Galilee.  It  seemed  that  never  were  fish  so  palatable  or  figs  so  delicious. 

After  a  swim  in  the  lake  we  were  ready  for  sweet  repose.  Our  room 
opened  out  on  a  balcony  overlooking  the  sea  and  close  to  it.  A  lone  bright 
star  hanging  near  the  dark  hilltops  on  yon  side  sent  a  silver  pencil  of  light 
across  the  placid  surface  as  if  ’twould  keep  watch  above  us  while  we  slept. 
At  early  dawn  we  arose  and  taking  our  Bibles  sat  on  the  balcony.  We  tried 
to  image  some  of  the  wonderful  events  that  had  transpired  within  the  range 
of  our  vision.  Just  out  there  some  three  miles  before  us  He  stilled  the 
tempest  and  again  came  walking  upon  its  waves.  Just  on  the  other  side  He 
healed  the  Gadarene  demoniac  and  to  the  north  on  yon  sloping  hillside  He 
fed  the  multitudes,  while  in  the  solitudes  of  those  adjacent  hills  He  prayed. 

31 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


On  this  side  and  to  our  left  He  called  James  and  John  from  their  net  mend¬ 
ing  and  Andrew  and  Peter  from  their  fishing,  and  later,  on  an  early  morning 
like  this,  He  stood  on  the  beach  beside  a  fire  of  coals  and  recommissioned 
Peter  to  the  apostleship.  Somewhere  up  there  near  old  Magdala  He  sat  in 
a  boat  and  addressed  the  people,  giving  them  the  beautiful  Parables  of 
Matthew  13,  and  not  far  from  shore  occurred  the  miraculous  draft  of  fishes. 
Up  there  at  old  Capernaum  Peter  caught  the  single  fish  with  the  coin  in  its 
mouth  for  the  tribute  money.  On  and  on  imagination  played  upon  the 
scenes  of  Sacred  Story.  A  cloud  of  some  proportions  hung  low  and  rested 
upon  the  hilltops  of  the  opposite  shore  just  above  the  traditional  site  of 
the  Feeding  of  the  Five  Thousand.  While  we  meditated  a  silver  ribbon 
kindled  on  its  outer  rim  soon  widening  into  a  lucid  band.  Then  the  thin 
places  in  the  cloud  became  suffused  with  radiance.  Then  its  whole  face 
shone  with  amber  and  gold  and  crimson  and  the  cloud  appeared  as  a  crystal 
screen  holding  back  the  sapphire  depths  of  the  glory  world  insistent  on 
bursting  through  for  our  special  delight.  Then  slowly  the  curtain  parted 
in  the  midst  as  though  some  angel  hand  were  opening  wide  the  gates  for 
the  triumphant  entrance  of  a  king.  As  the  cloud  became  attenuated  shafts 
of  golden  light  bathed  the  hillside  location  of  the  miracle  while  imagination 
filled  it  once  again  with  orderly  multitude  sitting  in  companies  while  He 
blessed  and  brake  and  fed.  Our  hearts  filled  with  holy  thoughts  and  loftiest 
impulses  and  we  then  and  there  rededicated  our  feeble  powers  to  a  sincerer 
execution  of  that  high  commission  embodied  in  the  miracle,  that  most  privi¬ 
leged  one  of  feeding  the  hungry  multitudes  of  today  with  the  ever  satisfying 
Bread  of  Life. 


“I  saw  Him  walk  beside  a  sea, 
Caught  like  a  gem  in  gold, 
Where  bloomed  the  hills  of  Galilee 
So  storied,  grim,  and  old. 

‘'Follow  me,”  I  heard  Him  cry; 

I  saw  the  stalwart  men; 

I  read  the  answer  in  each  eye, 
Such  as  had  never  been. 

“Follow  me,”  they  left  the  ship; 

They  sought  another  sea; 
Where  scarlet  sails  of  victory  dip 
Beyond  the  melting  lea. 


32 


Tiberius  by  the  Lake. 


“The  finest  shore  view  is  shown  here.” 


33 


<?  * 


t, 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


Two  thousand  years  have  coursed  the  tide; 

The  nets;  the  boat;  the  crew; 

All  these  have  passed;  the  ocean  wide 
Sings  of  the  ships  it  knew. 

But  shrank  they  from  the  cup  of  pain 
Fresh  from  the  purple  press? 

Or  did  they  leave  the  lake  in  vain, 

To  toil  for  treasures  less? 

They  bore  a  flame  to  farthest  isle 
Across  the  dusky  bar; 

And  wait  the  dream-girt  golden  while 
Beyond  the  evening  star.” 

(John  Jordan  Douglas.) 

Tiberius  was  built  A.  D.  20  by  Herod  Antipas  and  dedicated  to  the  Em¬ 
peror  Tiberius,  for  whom  it  was  named.  It  became  the  chief  city  of  the 
province  of  Galilee  and  was  adorned  by  handsome  structures,  including  a 
royal  palace  and  amphitheater.  Jesus  never  visited  it  and  the  city  is 
mentioned  but  once  and  incidentally  in  the  New  Testament.  The  Jews  hated 
it  intensely  and  very  naturally  because  it  was  a  Roman  city  built  by  Herod. 
Yet  after  the  fall  of  Jerusalem  they  flocked  to  it.  In  the  second  century 
the  Sanhedrin  sat  here  and  with  it  a  Rabbinical  school.  Here  the  Mishna, 
the  repository  of  Jewish  tradition,  was  published.  Fragments  of  ancient 
walls  and  aqueducts  remain  and  some  old  bronzed  doors  with  exquisite 
carvings  testify  to  its  ancient  elegance.  In  1837  an  earthquake  destroyed 
the  city.  Today  it  contains  five  thousand  population,  mostly  Jews.  The 
streets  are  narrow  and  filthy.  It  has  been  said  that  “the  king  of  the  fleas 
holds  his  court  in  Tiberius,”  but  our  hotel  was  clean  and  comfortable  and 
beyond  criticism.  From  Tiberius  the  finest  shore  view  of  the  lake  is  af¬ 
forded,  though  the  view  from  Karn  Hattin  is  more  extensive.  At  the  north 
end  where  the  Jordan  enters  is  the  site  of  Bethsaida,  the  home  of  Andrew 
and  Peter  and  Philip,  and  probably  John.  Two  miles  northwest  among  the 
hills  is  Chorazin,  while  on  the  shore  toward  us  is  Capernaum,  the  second 
home  and  operating  center  of  Jesus.  Nearer  us  is  the  fertile  plain  of 
Genessaret,  a  mile  wide.  Then  comes  Magdala,  the  home  of  Mary  Magdalene. 
Next  is  Dalmanutha,  then  Tiberius,  and  just  below  us  to  the  south  are  the 
Hot  Springs,  much  frequented  by  rheumatics.  Chinnareth  is  just  beyond. 
Eight  other  towns  with  these  seven  ranged  around  the  border  of  the  lake. 


35 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


which,  in  the  days  of  Jesus,  according  to  Josephus,  averaged  fifteen  thousand 
population  each.  “The  sea  was  covered  with  vessels  engaged  in  traffic  and 
fisheries,  and  its  shores  were  dotted  with  cities  and  villages.”  It  was  called 
“the  unparalleled  garden  of  God.”  Renan  speaks  of  it  as  “a  country  very 
green  and  full  of  shade  and  pleasantness,  the  true  country  of  the  Canticles 
and  the  Psalms  of  the  well  beloved.”  Of  all  the  above  fifteen  cities  Tiberius 
alone  remains.  The  others  are  but  piles  of  ruins  with  an  occasional  family 
living  in  some  rude  hut.  Even  the  location  of  most  of  them  is  problematic. 
Here  was  spent  the  major  part  of  Christ’s  busy  ministry.  His  feet  trod  the 
angry  waves  and  His  fiat  hushed  them  into  silence.  Up  and  down  its  populous 
shores  He  “went  about  doing  good,”  and  each  grain  of  sand  and  each  drop 
of  water  here  is  filled  with  sacred  sentiment  and  holiest  associations. 


36 


The  Mount  of  Beatitudes. 


“Twin  peaks  with  a  considerable  depression  between  them  stand  out  ii 
clear  outline  and  can  be  seen  for  miles  away.” 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Mount  of  Beatitudes  and  Cana  of  Galilee. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Mount  of  Beatitudes  and  Cana  of  Galilee, 

Two  miles  west  from  Tiberius  and  1050  feet  above  the  lake  level  is  the 
Mount  of  the  Beatitudes,  or  the  Horns  of  Hattin.  Twin  peaks  with  a  con¬ 
siderable  depression  between  them  stand  out  in  clear  outline  and  can  be 
seen  for  miles  away.  A  short  distance  off  is  a  large  flat  stone  lying  in 
amphitheater  shape.  Here  the  Crusaders  fixed  the  location  of  the  Sermon 
on  the  Mount  which  Dean  Stanley  said  “met  all  the  requirements  of  the 
gospel  narrative.”  On  an  adjoining  plain  to  the  south,  July  3,  1187,  the 
army  of  the  Moslem  general  Saladin  defeated  the  European  Crusaders 
under  Guy  De  Lusignon  when  the  Cross  fell  finally  before  the  Crescent  and 
the  Christian  kingdom  of  Judea  became  “one  with  Ninevah  and  Tyre.” 
This  plain,  which  appears  in  the  accompanying  picture,  lies  beautifully  and 
is  being  cultivated  by  Zionist  colonists  who  are  using  modern  agricultural 
methods.  It  is  notable  that  the  only  modern  farming  implement  seen  was 
near  this  point.  It  was  a  sulky  plow  drawn  by  two  good  farm  horses.  It 
is  a  prophecy  of  what  Zionists  expect  to  do  all  over  the  Holy  Land.  Here 
is  afforded  the  finest  panoramic  view  of  the  sea  “set  like  a  gem  in  gold” 
and  a  large  area  of  Galilee  province.  Eastward  lie  the  mountains  of 
Ephraim  and  the  region  of  old  Decapolis.  To  the  south  are  the  mountains 
of  Samaria  with  Tabor  lifting  its  cone  shaped  peak  a  thousand  feet  from 
the  Esdraelon  plain.  To  the  east  is  Mount  Carmel  and  the  Mediterranean. 
To  the  north  are  the  Anti-Lebanons  with  old  Hermon,  the  most  probable 
scene  of  the  Transfiguration,  lifting  its  snow-crested,  glistening  brow  nearly 
ten  thousand  feet  into  the  firmament.  Near  its  base  is  the  old  city  of 
Caesarea  Philippi,  the  most  northern  point  of  Christ’s  ministry,  save  an  in¬ 
definite  reference  to  a  brief  visit  into  “the  coasts  of  Tyre  and  Sidon.”  Nearby 
us  to  the  north  and  a  thousand  feet  still  higher  is  the  town  of  Safed  with  a 
long  and  continuous  existence.  It  stands  out  white  against  the  mountainside 
on  which  it  is  situated  and  is  doubtless  the  “city  set  upon  a  hill  that  can¬ 
not  be  hid.”  The  Jews  believed  that  the  Messiah  would  rise  out  of  the 
waters  of  the  lake,  land  in  Tiberius,  and  assume  his  throne  in  Safed. 

The  situation  of  the  Mount  of  Beatitudes  is  central.  Here  might  as¬ 
semble  the  multitudes  from  the  fifteen  cities  surrounding  the  lake  and  the 
ten  cities  beyond  it,  from  Safed  and  the  forested  regions  of  Galilee  as  far 
north  as  Mount  Hermon  and  Caesarea,  and  even  as  far  south  as  Jerusalem. 


41 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


Here  the  kingly  Lawgiver  issued  his  proclamation,  his  Magna  Charta,  the 
laws  of  his  Realm,  the  Kingdom  of  God,  of  Heaven,  the  laws  by  which  men 
and  nations  will  some  day  live  righteously,  and  the  laws  by  which  men  and 
nations  will  some  day  be  judged  righteously.  Looking  downward  from  this 
elevated  post  we  see  for  the  last  time  the  waters  of  the  opaline  sea  in  their 
deep  basin  1,050  feet  below  with  its  wavelets  crisping  into  foam  under  the 
wand  of  the  morning  breeze.  Good-bye,  “Sweet  Galilee,”  with  your  pebbly 
beaches,  your  deserted  mounds,  your  basaltic  hills,  your  restful  quietude, 
your  poetic  suggestiveness.  We  are  loathe  to  depart.  You  have  in  this 
brief  visit  done  much  for  us,  but  most  of  all  you  have  made  the  Christ  in¬ 
tensely  real  and  His  words  and  works  more  precious  to  our  hearts.  We 
turn  away  with  sadness,  yet  there  is  much  more  to  see. 

Twelve  miles  southwest  is  Cana  (Kefr  Kenna)  and  to  that  objective  we 
are  traveling.  For  the  next  three  days  we  are  aboard  open  three-seated 
hacks  with  canopy  tops,  drawn  each  by  three  good  Arabian  horses.  We 
have  selected  this  mode  for  its  slowness,  affording  opportunity  at  will  to 
stop  and  observe,  and  also  for  reading  our  Bibles  as  we  ride.  The  roads 
are  good  all  the  way  to  Jerusalem,  which  we  will  reach  three  days  later. 
We  continually  saw  squads  of  laborers,  both  men  and  women,  breaking 
the  rocks  with  hammeis,  carrying  them  in  baskets  on  head  or  shoulder,  and 
repairing  the  roadbeds.  At  one  point  we  saw  a  modern  road  machine.  From 
Hattin  we  crossed  a  ridge  of  hills  and  then  out  upon  a  level  plain  beautiful 
and  fertile.  We  passed  several  small  villages  and  about  noon  we  came  in 
sight  of  Cana.  In  the  edge  of  the  town  was  a  community  threshing  floor 
with  its  many  great  piles  of  wheat  straw  and  yokes  of  black  oxen  going 
around  and  around  drawing  flat-bottomed  sleds.  The  bottom  of  the  floor  is 
of  smooth  stone  and  the  feet  of  the  animals,  usually  oxen,  sometimes 
donkeys,  sometimes  oxen  and  donkeys,  cut  the  straw  into  fragments,  the 
grain  settling  to  the  floor.  The  straw  is  used  as  provender  for  the  beasts 
of  burden.  Later  the  grain  is  winnowed  from  “the  chaff  which  the  wind 
driveth  away.”  The  writer  approached  a  Syrian  thresher  and  by  gesticula¬ 
tion  asked  for  the  privilege  of  driving  the  oxen.  It  was  cheerfully  granted. 
It  looked  to  be  dead  easy.  But  the  oxen  circled  around  a  couple  of  times 
and  virtually  all  the  straw  was  piled  high  around  the  driver  and  then  the 
oxen  deliberately  refused  to  go  further  and  turned  their  heads  to  the  driver 
and  looked  straight  at  him  as  much  as  to  ask,  “What  fool  is  this  come  to 
Cana?”  Observation  (1).  Many  things  which  look  to  be  easy  are  not  so. 


42 


mm 

mm 


The  Well  at  Cana  of  Galilee. 


“From  here  came  the  water  that  ‘saw  its  god  and  blushed.’ 
authentic  spot  in  Cana.” 


The  one 


43 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


There  is  an  art  in  doing  the  simplest  things.  Observation  (2).  In  traveling 
abroad  don’t  be  too  anxious  to  take  on  too  many  thrills.  For  instance,  at 
Beirut  immediately  on  landing,  even  before  going  to  the  hotel,  the  writer 
gave  a  street  vendor  a  genuinely  good  United  States  nickle  for  a  Syrian 
soft  drink  from  a  goat  skin  bag.  It  might  have  been  dog  skin.  In  fac; 
from  odor  and  taste  I  affirm  it  was.  It  had  the  flavor  of  camphor,  asafoetida, 
billygoat,  and  Damascus  dog  all  in  one.  A  sip  was  sufficient  for  the  whole 
tour.  Adjoining  the  threshing  floor  there  is  a  large  characteristic  cactus 
fence  or  hedge.  The  fences  in  Palestine  are  either  cactus  or  rock  walls. 
Rocks  are  everywhere  but  cactus  grows  naturally  and  without  labor.  Further¬ 
more  it  produces  large,  juicy,  prickly  pears  in  abundance,  which  are  eaten 
by  the  people  with  a  relish.  A  sharp  hooked  blade  on  the  end  of  a  staff 
dexterously  wielded  gathers  the  fruit  and  it  is  peeled  from  the  end  of  a 
fork  so  as  to  avoid  the  multitude  of  minute  needles. 

Kefr  Kenna  is  a  clean  town  of  1000  people  with  square  stone  houses.  It 
was  the  home  of  Nathaniel  and  many  fig  trees  of  great  size  and  shade  still 
afford  retreats  where  one  might  read  and  meditate.  Jesus  was  here  when 
He  healed  the  Centurion’s  servant  at  Capernaum,  fifteen  miles  away.  But 
it  is  most  famed  because  it  was  here  that  the  “first  miracle  that  He  wrought” 
was  performed  when  at  His  will  “the  conscious  water  saw  its  God  and 
blushed”  into  the  best  wine  at  the  last  of  the  feast.  We  can  never  be  too 
thankful  for  that  first  miracle,  for  it  not  only  teaches  how  simple  things 
under  His  touch  are  raised  to  sublime  value  and  significance,  but  sanctifies 
marriage  and  sweetens  human  life  by  His  presence  and  mixture  in  the 
glad  festivities  of  a  marriage  feast.  Two  Catholic  churches,  Greek  and 
Roman,  dispute  the  site  of  the  miracle.  In  the  Greek  church  are  shown  two 
large  water  pots  as  the  identical  vessels  used  on  that  occasion.  The  room 
purporting  to  be  the  scene  of  the  marriage  is  shown  with  crude  pictures  of 
the  event  daubed  on  the  walls.  Of  course  this  claim  is  groundless  and  the 
building  is  comparatively  modern.  However,  as  we  left  the  town  we  passed 
one  authentic  spot  at  least.  It  was  the  well  from  which  the  water  was  taken 
for  the  miracle.  It  is  and  ever  has  been  the  only  well  in  the  town.  As  we 
came  to  it  the  women  were  there  with  their  water  pots. 

Kefr  Kenna  is  not  a  town  of  such  importance  today  as  to  justify  dwelling 
upon  it  with  such  length,  but  to  our  party  a  most  beautiful  episode  occurred 
there  that  we  shall  always  treasure  as  one  of  the  radiant  spots  of  our 
pilgrimage.  In  1914  Rev.  J.  M.  Rowland,  now  of  Richmond,  Va.,  our  genial 


45 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


and  capable  conductor,  was  in  Palestine  over  our  identical  route.  His  home 
congregation  had  presented  him  with  a  Bible  which,  of  course,  he  highly-  ;vl 
prized  and  which  was  his  constant  companion.  Leaving  his  conveyance  for- 
some  little  side  trip  the  Bible  was  stolen.  He  never  expected  to  hear  from 
it  again.  The  war  came  on  and  its  loss  had  been  reconciled.  In  1919  he  re¬ 
ceived  a  letter  from  a  Syrian  girl  of  Cana  stating  that  she  had  bought  the 
Bible  from  a  Turk  for  a  few  piasters,  hoping  to  preserve  it  for  the  owner, 
whose  name  and  address  appeared  on  the  fly  leaf.  Mr.  Rowland  immediately 
wrote  her  to  forward  it  to  him,  enclosing  a  nice  contribution,  and  requesting 
a  long  letter  as  to  herself,  her  plans,  her  family,  etc.,  which  letter  he  duly 
received.  It  turned  out  that  she,  Monera  Saffouri,  was  one  of  three  chil¬ 
dren  of  the  only  Protestant  Christian  family  in  Cana  and  for  many  years 
her  ancestors  had  been  faithful  Christians  under  great  persecutions.  At 
the  time  of  our  visit  Monera  was  seventeen,  her  older  sister  Karemy  nine¬ 
teen,  and  her  younger  brother  was  fifteen.  The  two  girls  had  been  students 
in  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Mission  School  at  Jerusalem  and  Karemy  was 
then  teaching  in  the  local  school.  The  war  had  interrupted  their  further 
education.  Monera  was  in  1914  but  a  child  but  her  letter,  so  well  composed 
and  so  neatly  written,  indicated  a  bright  mind  and  beautiful  character.  She: 
turned  out  to  be  as  beautiful  in  form  and  feature  as  in  character.  A  more 

attractive  maiden  one  would  not  wish  to  see.  Her  brunette  complexion 

softened  and  refined  by  Christian  fervor  and  sentiment,  with  her  sweet 
musical  voice  immediately  won  all  our  hearts,  for  we  had  all  known 
her  story  and  anticipated  this  pleasurable  meeting.  The  aged  father, 
after  paying  heavy  exemption  for  two  years  and  being  unable  to  pay  more, 
was  conscripted  into  the  Turkish  army  and  taken  far  away.  Soldiers  and 
moslem  neighbors  had  taken  all  available  furniture  and  food  and  the  mother 
and  children  were  enduring  unspeakbale  hardships  with  worse  dangers  from 
the  drunken  soldiers  daily  threatening.  Then  came  the  sentence  of  exile. 
Across  the  vast  stretches  to  some  unknown  world,  possibly  to  some  Turkish 
harem,  for  these  beautiful  Christian  girls  they  must  go  on  a  day  close  at 

hand.  Tears  and  entreaties  were  fruitless.  They  were  Christians  and 

enemies  of  the  Sultan’s  kingdom  and  spies.  They  must  go  at  once.  It 
meant  certain  death  and  worse.  In  extreme  desperation  they  went  to  God 
in  prayer  and  fasting.  Kneeling  on  the  bare  floor  of  a  darkened  room  for 
hours  with  the  Bible  she  had  found  pressed  to  her  heart  she  prayed  on 
and  on  and  on  with  childlike  appeal  and  faith.  So  were  the  others  praying. 


46 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


A  commotion  was  heard  in  the  streets  and  Lo!  General  Allenby  had 
entered  the  town  and  the  Turks  were  fleeing  never  to  return,  thank  God. 
Victory  and  deliverance  had  come.  Prayer  had  won.  God  had  not  forgotten. 
Dr.  Rowland  assumed  the  completion  of  Monera’s  education  and  she  is  soon 
to  come  to  America  to  enter  one  of  our  best  Christian  colleges.  She  is 
fitting  herself  for  Christian  missionary  work  among  her  own  people  in  far 
off  Palestine.  How  strange  is  the  chequer  work  of  Providence.  The  loss 
of  this  Bible  became  the  guiding  incident  that  gives  Christian  education 
to  this  capable  young  woman  and  provides  for  the  extension  of  the  knowledge 
of  the  Bible  perhaps  among  thousands  and  thousands  for  all  coming  time. 
This  Turk  was  led  to  offer  this  Bible  for  sale  to  the  only  Christian  family 
in  all  that  section.  Just  twenty  miles  south  one  time  long  ago  a  noble 
youth  was  maliciously  sold  into  slavery  by  his  brothers  but  later  events 
placed  him  upon  a  pinnacle  of  power  and  influence  that  affected  the  salva¬ 
tion  of  a  nation  from  death  and  guided  the  stream  of  future  human  history. 
The  other  two  children  have  a  consuming  desire  for  an  education.  Let  us 
hope  that  it  may  be  gratified. 

We  were  met  at  the  threshing  floor  by  the  old  father  and  the  children. 
Letters  had  gone  ahead  that  we  were  coming  to  pay  them  a  visit.  Mr. 
Rowland  immediately  recognized  Monera  from  photographs  she  had  sent 
him  and  the  meeting  was  very  touching  indeed.  I  can  see  them  now  standing 
hand  in  hand  with  their  faces  glowing  with  mutual  regard.  We  were  led 
to  their  simple  home,  which  was  a  model  of  neatness.  Everything  showed 
the  touch  of  Christian  refinement  in  striking  contrast  with  the  adjacent 
moslem  homes.  Lunch  was  prepared  for  us  but  as  we  had  brought  our  lunch 
from  Tiberius  we  united  ours  with  theirs  in  a  royal  feast  of  good  and  simple 
fare  in  the  bonds  of  Christian  fellowship.  The  relish  of  those  Syrian  honey 
cakes  abides.  After  lunch  we  had  religious  services  conducted  by  Dr.  Row¬ 
land  and  then  he  asked  Monera  to  tell  the  story  of  the  lost  Bible.  Sweetly, 
simply,  with  full  composure  she  talked  in  perfectly  good  English.  Its 
effect  upon  us  all  was  electric  and  our  emotions  overcame  us  and  a  mountain 
top  experience  words  cannot  describe  was  ours.  Then  the  maidens  sang 
“Galilee”  for  us.  Such  melody,  such  touching  rendering  of  that  beautiful 
song  so  replete  with  holy  sentiment  we  had  never  heard  before.  Every 
noble  impulse  stirred  by  the  beautiful  lake  we  had  that  morning  left  came 
flooding  back  upon  us.  After  other  songs  were  sung  we  reluctantly  bade 
a  fond  farewell  to  this  worthy  family  in  the  far  away  land  of  the  Christ. 


47 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


Mr.  Rowland  out  of  the  princely  bigness  of  his  heart  is  endeavoring  to 
provide  for  the  education  of  the  other  two  young  people,  Karemy  and  the 
brother.  We  are  sure  that  any  assistance  in  this  laudable  endeavor  will 
be  much  appreciated  by  him.  He  left  with  Monera  a  purse  of  $300  and 
they  started  to  school  again  in  Jerusalem  and  on  the  way  all  this  was  stolen 
by  some  wicked  Turk  whose  diabolical  heart  is  too  black  for  my  inadequate 
words  to  begin  to  describe.  How  pathetic!  Can’t  some  one  come  to  the 
rescue  ? 


49 


CHAPTER  V. 


Nazareth  and  Esdraelon. 


* 


CHAPTER  V. 


Nazareth  and  Esdraelon. 

Six  miles  south  from  Cana  we  suddenly  came  upon  the  hilltop  above  and 
looked  down  on  Nazareth,  once  a  hiss  and  a  byword,  but  now  one  of  the  three 
most  sacred  cities  of  the  world,  the  other  two  being,  of  course,  Jerusalem 
and  Bethlehem,  for  here  our  Lord  grew  up  in  wisdom  and  stature  and  in 
favor  with  God  and  man,  and  here  He  resided  for  almost  thirty  years,  sancti¬ 
fying  and  dignifying  human  toil,  His  profound  meditations  on  the  deep  things 
of  God  being  tuned  to  the  rythmic  push  of  the  plane  and  the  soft  rustle  of 
the  falling  shavings.  It  is  a  clean  little  city  of  probably  fifteen  thousand 
inhabitants  situated  in  a  three  quarter  basin  made  by  hills  four  hundred  feet 
higher,  on  the  slopes  of  which  part  of  the  city  is  built.  The  Nazareth  valley 
is  a  mile  long  and  half  as  wide  and  presents  a  pleasing  view,  shut  in  as 
it  is  by  the  guardian  hills  with  its  comparatively  modern  buildings  with  iron 
balconies  and  red  tiled  roofs  and  groves  of  almonds,  figs,  pomegranates, 
olives,  and  gardens  of  melons  and  cucumbers  set  apart  by  hedges  of  prickly 
pear.  The  streets  are  irregular  but  paved  with  cobblestones,  while  the  side¬ 
walks  of  stone  are  two  feet  wide  and  raised  a  foot  above  the  street  level. 

Nazareth  is  now  largely  a  Christian  town  composed  mostly  of  Greek 
Catholics,  though  the  Edinburgh  Medical  Missionary  Society  conducts  here 
a  mission  school,  an  orphanage,  and  a  hospital  that  accomplish  a  vast  deal 
of  good  and  are  deeply  entrenched  in  popular  appreciation.  Some  Moham¬ 
medans  are  also  here  with  two  mosques  and  graceful  minarets.  Allow  me 
to  state  here  that  in  the  Orient  the  word  Christian  includes  all  Catholics 
and  Protestants  as  distinguished  from  Mohammedans  and  Jews  and  all  other 
non-Christian  faiths.  The  Christians  of  Nazareth  are  very  kind  and  courteous 
and  are  the  best  type  of  citizens  we  met  in  Palestine.  Their  homes  are 
more  cleanly  and  their  demeanor  more  civil,  due  perhaps  to  its  long  pos¬ 
session  of  Christian  institutions.  The  women  are  fairly  attractive,  perhaps 
as  much  so  as  at  Bethlehem,  whose  women  are  said  to  excel  all  in  Palestine 
in  beauty,  though  I  saw  nothing  strikingly  excelling  in  either.  We  were 
beset  at  our  hotel  entrance  by  numbers  of  women  with  hands  full  of 
beautiful  laces.  They  escorted  us  along  the  streets  pleading  most  piteously 
with  us  to  buy  of  them,  which  we  did.  The  work  was  beautiful  and  the 
prices  reasonable.  We  found  English  well  spoken  here  and  the  children 


51 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


are  all  learning  the  language  in  the  government  schools.  This  is  true 
all  over  the  Holy  Land  and  it  will  not  be  many  years  until  one  can  make 
any  part  of  it  without  an  interpreter. 

Of  course  Nazareth  gets  its  interest  from  its  Christian  traditions  and 
relations  to  Christ  and  His  family,  without  which  it  would  be  but  a  wide 
place  in  the  road.  It  is  not  once  mentioned  by  any  Old  Testament  writer 
or  by  Josephus  or  any  classical  author  before  Christ.  For  some  reason  it 
was  held  in  disrepute.  Hence  Nathaniel’s  question,  “Can  any  good  thing 
come  out  of  Nazareth?”  It  is  mentioned  twenty-seven  times  in  the  New 
Testament.  Many  traditional  sites,  few  of  which  are  authentic,  are  shown 
the  tourist,  but  it  is  sufficient  to  know  that  He  was  here  “conceived  by 
the  Holy  Ghost  and  born  of  the  Virgin  Mary”  and  consecrated  its  soil  for 
thirty  years  with  His  holy  feet.  We  visited  the  Church  of  the  Annunciation 
where  the  angel  announced  His  coming  birth.  A  marble  altar  with  tablet 
containing  the  Latin  inscription  “Hie  verbum  caro  factum  est,”  (Here  the 
Word  was  made  flesh),  stands  at  one  end  of  the  chapel.  On  either  side  is 
a  marble  column,  the  one  marking  where  the  angel  Gabriel  stood  in  making 
the  annunciation,  the  other  where  the  Virgin  stood  in  receiving  it.  Mary’s 
column  is  broken  and  suspends  from  the  ceiling  miraculously,  you  are 
told.  Through  a  doorway  we  enter  the  Chapel  of  Joseph,  and  then  we 
descend  still  deeper  underground  into  Mary’s  kitchen,  which  is  nothing  but 
an  old  underground  cistern.  The  chimney  is  but  the  overhead  opening 
through  which  the  water  entered  and  was  drawn.  The  above  church  in¬ 
corporates  the  “Holy  House,”’  or  Casa  Santa.  However,  the  Roman  Catholics 
claim  that  it  was  transported  by  angel  hands  to  Loreto  in  southeastern 
Italy,  and  it  is  now  visited  by  hundreds  of  thousands  annually  and  is  one 
of  Rome’s  most  venerated  shrines.  On  one  side  of  the  above  church  is  the 
Virgin’s  Fountain,  the  only  authentic  location  in  the  city.  From  the  spring 
under  the  church  the  waters  are  conducted  to  the  exterior  through  pipes 
and  issue  in  three  spouts.  This  is  the  only  spring  or  well  in  Nazareth  and 
little  of  its  water  wastes.  At  all  hours  of  the  day,  especially  toward 
sunset,  a  motley  throng,  mostly  women,  gather  here  and  retail  the  neighbor¬ 
hood  gossip,  as  it  was  in  the  days  of  His  childhood.  The  women  carry  their 
waterpots  on  their  heads  with  skill  and  precision.  Often  their  babies  are 
carried  with  them  and  the  children  run  alongside.  That  neatly  dressed 
mother  with  the  eight  year  old  brightfaced  boy  by  her  side  might  have 
been  centuries  ago  Mary  and  Jesus,  she  trudging  along  with  her  burden 


52 


The  Fountain  of  the  Virgin  at  Nazareth. 

“Here  came  Mary  to  fill  her  waterpots  as  is  done  today,  the  boy  Jesus 
by  her  side.” 


53 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


and  He  entertaining  her  with  His  childish  and  musical  prattle.  You  are 
shown  the  school  Christ  attended  in  the  interior  of  a  monastery  and  in  a 
chapel  built  in  1858  the  identical  workshop  of  Joseph  and  later  of  Jesus 
Himself,  for  tradition  affirms  that  Joseph  died  not  many  years  after  the 
birth  of  Jesus  and  that  He  assumed  the  support  of  the  mother  and  younger 
children.  No  mention  is  made  of  Joseph  with  Mary  during  His  ministry 
and  at  the  cross  Jesus  committed  her  to  John’s  care.  It  is  not,  of  course, 
the  original,  but  is  identical  in  appearance,  for,  as  elsewhere  stated,  the 
mode  of  occupation  in  Palestine  is  gripped  in  a  vise  of  long  and  unbroken 
conventionality  and  all  things  are  done  as  it  was  in  the  beginning  when 
Tubal  Cain  fashioned  the  metals  into  cunning  artifice  or  Bezaleel  the 
tabernacle  curtains  with  skillful  needle.  We  passed  a  carpenter  shop  with 
a  man  and  a  boy  making  yokes  and  boxes  and  thought  that  it  might  be  a 
duplicate  of  the  one  of  long  ago.  In  another  church  we  were  shown  the 
table  on  which  Christ  was  said  to  have  dined  with  His  disciples  both  be¬ 
fore  and  after  His  resurrection,  notwithstanding  that  He  was  forcibly 
ejected  from  Nazareth  early  in  His  ministry.  Then  we  were  taken  to  the 
synagogue  He  attended  and  from  which  He  was  cast  out  and  led  to  the 
brow  of  the  hill  to  be  cast  down  to  His  death,  which  death  He  miraculously 
escaped.  This  synagogue  is  probably  on  or  near  the  original  location  as  it 
was  built  by  the  Crusaders  on  the  ruins  of  the  first  and  earlier  one, 
whose  history  can  be  traced  back  to  A.  D.  570.  It  is  now  a  Greek  church 
and  presents  the  anomaly  of  a  Catholic  congregation  appropriating  a 
Jewish  synagogue.  A  gorgeous  altar  with  many  candles  is  inside  a  door 
at  the  end  and  above  are  the  pictures  of  Christ  and  Mary  and  the  Apostles. 
The  Mount  of  Precipitation  is  shown  you  two  miles  south  of  the  city.  It 
is  a  high  bluff  and  the  most  one  could  say  in  its  favor  as  the  real  location 
is  that  one  could  be  precipitated  to  his  death  very  easily  from  it,  but  not 
far  from  the  synagogue  is  a  bluff  that  would  answer  every  requirement  for 
the  act  and  for  the  gospel  narrative.  The  sudden  and  volcanic  temper  of 
the  Oriental,  with  passions  fierce,  quick,  and  vindictive  would  have  sought 
instinctively  the  nearest  and  most  accessible  spot  for  this  purpose  and 
their  volatile  passions  would  have  cooled  down  before  they  had  walked 
two  miles,  had  they  been  energetic  enough  to  do  so.  Alas  for  Nazareth 
that  eventful  day!  For  when  Jesus  passed  through  their  midst  and  went 
His  way  He  left  the  city  to  the  just  deprivation  of  His  presence  and  un¬ 
told  blessings  amongst  them.  The  Nazarenes  are  not  the  only  people  who 


55 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


,  Lave  been  too  stupid  to  appraise  properly  talent  and  virtue  and  ability 
within  their  confines.  Was  it  not  true  that  His  own  mother  misunderstood 
Him  and  His  own  brothers  and  sisters  said  He  was  insane?  To  this  event 
we  are  due  the  well-known  adage  that  “a  prophet  is  not  without  honor 
save  in  his  own  country.” 

A  point  of  special  interest  that  no  tourist  should  omit  is  the  Dome  of 
Neby  Sain,  or  the  Tomb  of  Simeon.  It  is  a  high  hill  four  hundred  feet 
above  the  city  on  the  northwestern  side.  The  location  of  Simeon’s  final 
resting  place,  if  authentic,  is  of  interest,  but  the  view  is  sublime.  For 
miles  and  miles  the  whole  Galilee  region  unrolls  in  a  panorama  that  for 
beauty  and  historic  interest  is  unparalleled.  To  the  north  is  Mount  Hermon 
lifting  his  hoary  head  heavenward.  To  the  east  is  the  Jordan  valley  and 
beyond  it  the  mountains  of  Gilead.  To  the  west  is  the  Carmel  range  “like 
some  long  reptilian  giant  sleeping  by  the  sea,”  its  gazelle  nose  jutting  into 
the  sea,  and  its  highest  point  being  the  traditional  site  of  Elijah’s  victorious 
contest  with  the  priests  of  Baal.  Beyond,  the  Great  Sea  shines  like  an 
opal  gem  in  the  sunlight.  To  the  south  are  the  mountains  of  Samaria  with 
the  twin  mountains  of  Ebal  and  Gerizim  looming  in  the  distance,  while 
on  the  near  side  and  in  the  immediate  prospect  sleeps  the  wonderful  and 
historic  Plain  of  Esdraelon  about  which  more  must  be  said.  This  elevation 
was  doubtless  a  favorite  resort  for  Jesus  and  the  past  history  of  visible 
sites  doubtless  stirred  His  soul  and  the  beauties  of  nature  so  eft  considered 
charmed  Him  into  sympathetic  interpretation.  And  doubtless  here  after 
a  hard  day’s  toil  He  would  often  pray  and  meditate  under  the  stars  of  God. 

Traveling  south  we  come  soon  to  the  edge  of  this  celebrated  plain.  It 
is  the  prettiest  spot  in  Palestine.  In  shape  it  is  a  triangle  some  fifteen 
miles  across  and  every  foot  of  it  is  filled  with  historic  traditions  and  as¬ 
sociations.  Across  it  from  southeast  to  northwest  stretches  the  “Brook 
Kishon,”  dry  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  but  in  the  rainy  season  a  raging 
torrent  being  supplied  by  many  tributary  rivulets.  It  might  easily  have 
justified  Debora’s  poetic  tribute  in  her  song  of  victory,  “The  river  of  Kishon 
swept  them  away,  that  ancient  river,  the  river  Kishon,”  when  “the  stars 
in  their  courses  fought  against  Sisera.”  This  plain  is  the  world’s  most 
famous  battleground.  From  Barak  and  Debora,  and  more  ancient  still, 
to  Napoleon  and  Allenby,  warriors  of  many  nations  have  encamped  here 
and  their  banners  have  floated  over  it  and  have  been  wet  “with  the  dews 
of  Hermon.” 


56 


Esdraelon. 

“The  world’s  most  famous  battlefield.  Every  foot  of  it  is  filled  with 
his  toric  associations.  Here  ‘the  stars  in  their  courses  fought  againso 
Sisera.  ” 


57 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


“Monarchs  of  Palestine,  and  Kings  of  Tyre, 

And  brave  Maccabee  have  all  been  here; 

And  Cestius,  with  his  Roman  plunderers; 

And  Saladin  and  Baldwin,  and  the  host 
Of  fierce  Crusaders,  from  the  British  north, 

And  shook  their  swords  above  thee,  and  their  blood 
Flowed  down  like  water  to  thine  ancient  sea.” 

The  ancient  highway  between  Egypt  and  Mesopotamia  and  the  far 
east  traversed  this  valley,  entering  through  a  pass  at  the  eastern  end 
of  the  Jezreel  plain,  a  subsidiary  division  of  the  larger  Esdraelon  plain, 
and  leaving  it  through  another  pass  near  the  sea  leading  out  through  the 
beautiful  plain  of  Acca,  merging  into  Sharon.  The  road  from  north  to 
south  likewise  crossed  it.  Here  converged  the  highways  of  ancient  com¬ 
merce  and  here  was  spilt  much  of  human  gore  as  back  and  forth  surged 
the  contending  armies  of  the  nations.  The  valley  is  called  at  its  western 
side  the  Valley  of  Megiddo.  Twenty  battlefields  range  around  it  and  on 
its  surface.  So  much  so  that  John  in  Revelation  16:16  makes  it  the  type 
of  the  final  contest  between  the  forces  of  good  and  evil,  the  Armageddon,  Ur 
meaning  city,  and  Megiddo  troops,  city  of  troops.  Says  a  most  eminent 
authority,  Dr.  George  Adam  Smith,  in  his  Historical  Geography  of  the 
Holy  Land,  “We  are  impressed  with  the  great  arena  traversed  through 
the  centuries  by  commerce,  war,  and  judgment.  From  Jezreel  (his  position 
of  observation)  you  see  the  slaughter  place  of  the  priests  of  Baal;  you  see 
Jehu  ride  from  Bethshan  to  the  vineyard  of  Naboth  at  your  feet,  the 
enormous  camp  of  Holofernes  spreading  from  the  hills  above  Jenin,  march¬ 
ing  and  countermarching  Syrians,  Egyptians,  and  Jews  in  the  days  of  the 
Hasmoneans,  the  elephants  and  engines  of  Antiochus,  the  litters  of  Cleopatra, 
the  camps  of  the  Romans  and  the  wonderful  men  of  old  Rome  at  tbieir 
heads — Pompey,  Mark  Anthony,  Vespasian,  and  Titus.  Here  crossed  the 
early  Christians,  and  later  came  the  Moslems  from  the  desert,  and  then  tr».! 
mighty  Ccrusaders,  till  the  magnificent  Saladin  drove  them  out  and  tne 
Mohammedans  held  sway  until  the  mighty  Napoleon  dreamed  of  an  empire 
on  the  Euphrates  and  swept  across  here  with  his  conquering  forces,  only 
to  be  beaten  and  to  recross  this  plain  in  his  first  retreat.”  It  was  the 
portion  of  Isacher  and  no  spot  of  Palestine  possessed  more  potential  value. 
Yet  for  centuries  it  has  been  only  a  grazing  plain  due  to  its  being  infested 
by  wandering  bands  of  Bedouins  that  seized  the  harvests  and  preyed  upon 


59 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


the  defenseless  farmers.  Hence  its  wonderful  richness  has  lain  unutilized 
and  today  not  one-sixth  of  its  acreage  is  tilled.  However,  a  better  day  is 
near  for  the  railroad  from  Damascus  to  Haifa,  opened  in  1905,  crosses  the 
plain  and  signs  of  its  reclamation  are  apparent  and  great  agricultural 
operations  are  taking  shape  under  the  protection  of  English  soldier  police, 
whose  white  tents  we  saw  in  a  pleasant  little  valley  by  a  stream.  We 
also  saw  them  riding  back  and  forth  all  over  Palestine.  It  was  to  us  a 
most  agreeable  sight. 

We  slowly  jogged  along  across  this  plain  with  Bible  and  Concordance  on 
our  lap  while  the  above  reflections  crowded  in  upon  our  minds.  At  a  modern 
town  called  Fuleh  in  the  middle  of  the  plain  the  Beersheba  branch  of  the 
railroad — begun  in  1913 — starts  southward.  We  overtook  its  terminus  at 
Shechem  in  1921.  It  will  soon  reach  Jerusalem. 

The  above  picture  looking  west  from  Jezreel  shows  the  beautiful  lay  ot 
the  valley  and  some  of  the  quite  recent  efforts  at  wheat  raising.  The 
harvest  was  over  and  threshing  was  on.  I  described  in  the  preceding  chapter 
a  threshing  floor  at  Cana.  In  the  bazaarh  section  of  Nazareth  we  saw  a 
fine  old  white  bearded  patriarch  sitting  by  a  pile  of  wheat  unmindful  of  our 
attention,  intently  engaged  in  measuring  the  grain  brought  to  him.  He  was 
the  official  gauger,  or  wheat  measurer,  of  Nazareth.  He  is  noted  for  his 
honesty  and  justice.  He  piles  it  on  by  hands  full  until  not  another  grain 
falls  from  the  heaped  up  measure.  No  one  ever  questions  his  decision  or 
impugns  his  honor.  He  is  an  example  of  God’s  generosity  to  the  unselfish 
and  Jesus  was  thinking  of  this  time  honored  custom  when  he  used  the  ex¬ 
pression  “heaped  up,  pressed  down  and  shaken  together  and  running  over.” 

In  this  valley  lie  the  ruins  of  a  number  of  well  known  cities  of  sacred 
and  historic  significance.  On  the  east,  ranged  around  the  base  of  Little 
Hermon,  the  “Hill  of  Moreh,”  are  Endor  where  dwelt  the  witch  consulted 
by  the  desperate  Saul,  Shunem  where  Elisha  restored  the  son  of  his  good 
friends  to  life,  and  Nain  where  the  Christ  performed  a  similar  miracle  for 
a  heartbroken  widow.  Near  here  in  the  Valley  of  Jezreel,  above  mentioned, 
is  Bethshan,  Gilboa,  Gideon’s  Fountain,  and  Jezreel  itself,  the  summer  capital 
of  Ahab  and  his  wicked  queen  Jezebel  whose  inflamed  and  passionate  blood 
doubtless  made  the  dogs  that  drank  it  more  savage  and  vicious.  Nearby  the 
palace  was  the  coveted  vineyard  of  poor  old  Naboth  slain  in  cold  and 
barbarous  cruelty.  On  the  south  is  En-gannim  (modern  Jenin),  the  city  of 


60 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


the  ten  lepers,  and  Taanach,  mentioned  in  Debora’s  song  and  also  in  in¬ 
scriptions  found  in  Karnak  in  Egypt.  And  on  the  southwest  is  Megiddo,  near 
where  the  main  highway  entered  from  the  way  of  the  sea.  None  of  these 
towns  are  more  than  mere  skeletons  of  their  ancient  existence  and  have  but 
few  inhabitants  living  in  simple  stone  huts.  Megiddo  itself  has  had  to  be 
reclaimed  and  identified  by  archaeologists  who  are  still  at  work  there.  Its 
modern  name  is  Lejjun. 


61 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Dothan — Samaria — Shechem. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Dothan — Samaria — Shechem. 

We  ate  our  lunch  under  a  wide  spreading  mulberry  tree  at  Jenin  where 
is  a  grove  of  fig  trees,  some  of  them  a  foot  in  diameter  and  richly  laden 
with  fruit.  There  is  also  a  large  fountain  near  which  is  a  fine  monument 
to  an  English  officer  killed  in  an  aeroplane  accident.  At  the  fountain  women 
were  beating  the  dirt  from  garments  dipped  in  the  water  and  laid  upon  a 
flat  rock.  At  Jenin  we  had  a  good  opportunity  to  observe  the  difference  be¬ 
tween  Christian  and  Mohammedan  character.  We  were  traveling  in  three 
large  vehicles.  The  drivers  of  the  two  forward  ones  were  Mohammedans. 
That  of  ours,  the  last  one,  a  Christian  young  man  from  Tiberius.  Dr.  S. 
had  dropped  his  purse  from  the  first  vehicle.  The  driver  of  the  second  saw 
it  fall  and  stopped  his  team  just  over  its  position  on  the  ground.  Under 
pretense  of  adjusting  the  harness  he  slyly  picked  up  the  purse  and  slipped 
it  into  his  blouse.  Our  boy  saw  the  whole  transaction  and  at  Jenin  when 
we  stopped  he  informed  Dr.  S.  of  the  affair  and  George  compelled  the  rascal 
to  produce  the  purse,  much  to  the  comfort  of  our  esteemed  companion  and 
our  appreciation  for  our  Christian  driver.  Christianity  works.  The 
Palestinian  peasant  is  noted  for  his  duplicity,  dishonesty,  until  he  finds 
Christ.  Then  he  is  a  gentleman. 

Four  miles  south  we  come  to  the  pretty  vale  of  Dothan,  named  from  the 
town  of  Dothan,  ruins  of  which  have  been  found  on  the  hill  rising  from  the 
middle  part  of  the  valley.  Near  the  road  is  a  typical  spring  at  which 
shepherds  were  watering  flocks  of  white  sheep  and  black  goats.  This  is 
probably  the  site  of  the  sale  of  Joseph  into  captivity,  a  pit  nearby  on  the 
hill  near  a  terebinth  tree  being  pointed  out  as  the  place  of  his  temporary 
confinement.  The  perfidy  of  these  brethren  is  seen  in  the  large  when  we 
recall  that  the  noble  hearted  Joseph  had  walked  sixty  miles,  coming  from 
“the  vale  of  Hebron”  across  a  rough  country  with  food  and  refreshment 
for  these  ingrates,  the  journey  requiring  at  least  two  days.  He  came  first 
to  Shechem  and  was  found  wandering  about  seeking  for  them,  and  on  being 
informed  that  they  had  gone  north  eighteen  miles  to  Dothan,  hurried  forward 
to  find  them,  only  to  be  seized  and  cruelly  sold  into  slavery  for  his  kindness. 
They  were  no  more  humane  than  some  of  the  modern  Bedouin  tribes  that 
invade  this  region.  The  history  of  Dothan  dates  back  to  the  sixteenth 


65 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


century  before  Christ.  It  was  well  known  in  the  fourth  century  A.  D.  and 
lost  in  the  twelfth.  Here  dwelt  for  awhile  Elisha  and  his  servant  who 
was  so  terrified  at  the  sight  of  the  Syrian  army  surrounding  the  city  on 
that  early  morning,  while  the  old  prophet  was  wonderfully  composed  be¬ 
cause  he  beheld  the  presence  of  a  vaster  army  of  “the  horses  and  chariots 
of  the  Lord”  ringing  around  the  city  and  themselves.  We  are  now  treading 
historic  ground  indeed  as  we  journey  southward  toward  the  Holy  City,  and 
the  Old  Testament  events  are  standing  out  in  bold  outline  and  with  a  new 
significance  and  interpretation.  All  this  history  was  well  known  to  Jesus 
and  often  had  He  traveled  this  same  route  and  into  His  education  had  gone 
the  historic  significance  of  all  these  locations  and  events  as  the  ancienx 
people  of  God  had  surged  back  and  forth  in  contest  with  their  enemies 
either  to  possess  the  promised  land  or  to  keep  it. 

We  pass  through  a  defile  and  emerge  into  another  valley  in  the  midst 
of  which  is  a  larger  hill  than  Dothan,  on  which  was  a  more  celebrated  city. 
I  refer  to  Samaria,  the  modern  name  of  which  is  Sebaste,  which  is  the 
Greek  for  Augusta,  the  feminine  for  Augustus  the  Emperor,  for  whom 
Herod  named  the  city  when  he  rebuilt  it.  The  hill  is  300  feet  above  the 
“Vale  of  Barley”  surrounding  it.  Its  appearance  has  been  described  as 
“a  cup  within  a  bowl,  or  a  cone  within  a  volcano,”  perhaps  recalling  the 
present  appearance  of  Vesuvius  as  we  saw  it  in  August  1921.  It  is  not  to 
be  confused  with  the  province  of  Samaria  in  which  it  sat  as  “crown”  or 

capitol.  The  city  was  named  from  Shemer,  from  whom  it  was  bought,  and 

the  province  took  its  name  from  the  city.  It  was  built  by  Onni,  king  of 

Israel,  B.  C.  925,  and  was  the  capitol  of  the  ten  tribes  for  200  years,  or 

until  722,  when  after  a  siege  of  three  years  by  Shalmanezer,  king  of  Syria, 
it  was  captured  and  destroyed  and  the  “crown”  demolished.  Omri  was  suc¬ 
ceeded  by  his  ambitious  son  Ahab  who  lavished  his  wealth  upon  it.  He 
built  a  gorgeous  “ivory  palace”  in  which  he  sat  in  luxury  and  in  sin,  being 
swayed  by  the  wicked  caprices  of  the  violent  Jezebel,  the  queen  who  ruled 
the  king  who  ruled  Israel.  He  also  built  a  Temple  of  Baal  and  made  the 
worship  of  the  sun  the  state  religion.  Elijah  and  Elisha  figured  in  its 
history  and  the  former  thundered  against  its  idolatry.  Here  Ben-Hadad, 
king  of  Syria,  and  his  thirty-two  allied  kings,  gathered  in  siege  only  to  be 
miraculously  dispersed.  Here  Elijah  predicted  the  three  years’  drought, 
and  later  came  that  strange  episode  of  Elisha  leading  the  blinded  army  of 


66 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


the  Syrians  to  captivity,  one  man — and  God — against  a  multitude.  Here 
came  home  from  Ramah  the  bloody  chariot  of  the  wicked  king  Ahab  bearing 
his  corpse.  In  the  pool  on  the  east  side  of  the  hill  the  chariot  was  washed 
of  its  blood.  During  the  reign  of  Hosea,  as  above  stated,  the  city  was 
captured  by  King  Shalmanezer  and  its  inhabitants,  with  the  majority  of 
the  ten  tribes,  were  scattered  into  exile  from  which  they  never  returned. 
Syrians  were  imported  in  their  stead.  These  intermarried  with  certain 
remaining  Jews  and  formed  the  Samaritans.  In  333  B.  C.  the  province  fell 
to  Alexander  the  Great,  who  removed  the  Samaritans  to  Shechem.  Then 
it  receded  to  the  Syrians  and  the  Ptolemaic  kings.  In  198  B.  C.  it  was 
conquered  by  the  despicable  Antiochus,  who  even  sacrificed  a  sow  upon  the 
altar  of  the  Holy  Place  in  the  Temple  in  Jerusalem.  His  excesses  pro¬ 
voked  the  Maccabees  to  revolt  and  thence  came  a  series  of  wars  leading- 
up  to  the  Roman  occupation  and  subjugation  by  Pompey  B.  C.  63.  In 
B.  C.  40,  Herod,  son  of  Antipater,  was  appointed  from  Rome  the  king  of 
the  Jews.  He  two  years  later  married  the  beautiful  Mariamne,  grand¬ 
daughter  of  John  Hyrcanus  of  the  house  of  the  Maccabees,  and  appointed 
her  brother  Aristobulus  III  the  High  Priest,  thus  merging  church  and  state. 

Herod  rebuilt  and  embellished  Samaria  and  to  his  palace  there  he  took 
Queen  Mariamne.  She  never  loved  him,  neither  respected  him,  but  he 
loved  her  passionately  and  always  came  back  to  her.  Yet,  instigated  by 
his  mother,  he  murdered  her  in  a  fit  of  insane  jealousy.  He  was  never  the 
same  again.  On  the  top  of  the  hill  in  a  level  basin  Herod  built  his  theater. 
Nearly  100  elegant  columns  two  feet  thick  and  sixteen  feet  high  stand  as 
a  relic  of  those  splendid  adornments.  Around  the  hill  extended  a  driveway 
three  thousand  feet  in  length  and  bordered  by  a  colonade.  Fountains 
sparkled  amongst  overhanging  arbors  and  birds  sang  amidst  blooming 
trellises  of  rambling  vines.  Terrace  after  terrace  from  the  vale  to  the 
top  presented  the  appearance  of  a  verdant  staircase.  Everything  bore  the 
mark  of  luxury  and  extravagance. 

Herod  was  a  dashing,  brilliant,  ambitious,  high-spirited  ruler  with  the 
desert  blood  of  Esau  in  his  veins.  He  was  a  politician  of  the  first  order 
and  as  fast  as  one  ruler  succeeded  another  in  Rome  had  the  faculty  of 
aligning  himself  with  the  favored  side  and  perpetuating  his  power  in  Judea, 
to  the  bitter  disappointment  of  the  Jews.  He  not  only  rebuilt  Samaria, 
but  restored  Jerusalem  to  its  former  glory,  his  temple  probably  excelling 


67 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


He  made  a  tropical  garden  of  Jericho,  rich  and  splendid,  which  he  redeemed 
from  the  beautiful  Cleopatra,  upon  whom  the  infatuated  Anthony  had  be¬ 
stowed  it.  He  built  Tiberius,  as  formerly  stated.  Lastly  he  built  his  own 
tomb  on  a  high,  cone-shaped  hill  called  today  Frank  Mountain  (Jebel  Fireidis) 
near  Bethlehem.  It  was  called  his  Herodium,  was  artificially  constructed, 
and  its  circular  summit  contains  today  castled  walls  and  towers  and  chambers. 
To  it  Herod,  having  died  at  Jericho,  was  brought  to  fatten  the  worms  that 
consumed  his  bloated  remains  not  long  after  the  adjacent  hillsides  echoed 
to  the  melody  of  the  angels’  song  announcing  the  birth  of  the  real  King  of 
the  Jews,  and  near  which  spot  his  unspeakable  cruelty  had  occasioned  the 
slaughter  of  so  many  innocent  babes.  It  has  been  well  said  that  “he  was  a 
super-monster  in  a  race  of  brutal  monsters,  the  scourge  of  the  world.” 

But  Herod  made  the  new  Samaria.  It  is  today  but  a  small,  dirty  village 
with  two  hundred  miserable  inhabitants  and  some  cactus  hedges  and  a  little 
bunch  of  palms,  amidst  a  debris  of  fallen  columns  and  temple  stones  which 
speak  eloquently  by  contrast  of  its  desolation  with  its  former  grandeur. 
Its  relation  to  sacred  and  profane  history  justifies  this  lengthy  treatise 
of  a  city  that  is  no  more.  Isaiah’s  graphic  prophecy  is  fulfilied,  “The 
crown  of  pride,  the  drunkards  of  Ephraim,  shall  be  trodden  under  foot,  and 
the  glorious  beauty  which  is  on  the  head  of  the  fat  valley  shall  be  a  fading 
flower.”  Ahab,  Herod,  two  dashing  personalities  of  Samaria.  Each  might 
have  served  well  his  day  and  generation,  but  each  surrendered  himself  to 
inordinate  ambition  and  dissipation  and  exploitation  of  the  populace,  and 
went  down  “to  the  vile  dust  from  whence  they  sprung,  unwept,  unhonored, 
and  unsung.”  St.  Philip  came  to  Samaria  “and  preached  Christ  unto  them, 
and  the  people  with  one  accord  gave  heed.”  As  Nablus  (Shechem)  increased 
Sebaste  (Samaria)  waned.  In  an  old,  dilapidated  church  you  are  shown  the 
supposed  tomb  of  John  the  Baptist,  though  the  claim  is  made,  remember, 
that  his  head  is  buried  in  the  Great  Mosque  at  Damascus.  Beside  this 
tomb  is  that  of  Elijah  and  Obadiah  and  one  other. 

Six  miles  from  Sebaste  we  come  to  Shechem  nestling  in  the  pass  betwee*i 
Mounts  Ebal  and  Gerizim  which  stand  3000  feet  above  sea  level  and  800 
above  the  plain.  The  first  mention  we  have  of  the  city  dates  back  2100 
years  to  the  days  of  Abraham’s  journey  from  Padan-Aram  westward.  In 
Gen.  12:6  we  are  told  that  he  came  to  “the  place  of  Sichem,”  and  that  “the 
Caananite  was  then  in  the  land.”  Here  God  appeared  and  promised  to  give 


68 


Nablus  or  Shechem. 


a 


Nestling  in  the  beautiful  pass  between  Mounts  Ebal  and  Geriz'm.’ 


69 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


this  land  to  him  and  to  his  posterity,  and  Abraham  built  an  altar  and 
worshipped,  as  was  his  custom.  Some  400  years  or  so  later  Jacob  and  his 
sons  came  that  way  and  bought  of  Sichem  for  100  pieces  of  silver  (lambs) 
a  parcel  of  ground  just  east  of  the  present  city.  He  also  built  an  altar 
and  digged  a  well  which  remains  until  this  day.  His  sons,  Simeon  and 
Levi,  destroyed  all  the  males  of  Shechem  under  an  unfair  artifice  in  revenge 
for  an  insult  to  their  sister  Dinah  by  Sichem.  Here  came  Joseph’s  brethren 
to  feed  their  father’s  flock,  and  not  far  hence,  as  above  mentioned,  they 
consummated  the  act  of  arch-treachery  by  selling  him  into  captivity.  Here 
Jotham,  standing  on  a  rock  pulpit  on  the  side  of  Gerizim  uttered  that 
beautiful  Parable  of  the  Trees,  the  only  parable  in  the  Old  Testament. 
Here  in  a  valley  between  gently  sloping  hills  which  make  an  ideal  location 
for  the  purpose,  both  in  space  and  acoustics,  Joshua  assembled  the  multi¬ 
tudes  and  delivered  unto  them  the  law  as  Moses  had  commanded.  Here 
after  Solomon’s  death  occurred  the  division  of  the  kingdom  when  Shechem 
became  the  capitol  of  the  ten  tribes  of  Israel.  Here  came  our  Savior  and 
abode  two  days  at  their  urgent  petition  proclaiming  the  life  giving  words: 
unto  them.  As  above  stated,  in  333  B.  C.  Alexander  removed  all  the 
Samaritans  from  Samaria  to  Shechem,  where  they  have  remained  until  this 
day  in  ever-dwindling  numbers.  Shechem  was  the  birthplace  of  Justin 
Martyr. 

It  has  been  said  that  Palestine  affords  no  more  beautiful  town  than 
Shechem,  now  called  Nablus,  a  corruption  of  Neapolis,  new  city.  It  abounds 
in  springs,  fountains,  and  rivulets.  There  are  said  to  be  eighty  springs 
in  the  city,  each  bearing  a  separate  name.  In  the  springtime  and  early 
summer  the  hillsides  are  robed  in  loveliness.  Gardens,  groves,  and  green 
meadows  abound.  Here  flourish  the  melon  and  the  cucumber,  the  citron 
and  the  pomegranate,  the  almond  and  the  fig,  the  orange  and  the  apple, 
the  vine  and  the  olive.  As  one  author  has  stated  it,  “Here  a  scene  of  al¬ 
most  unparalleled  verdure  burst  upon  our  view.  The  whole  valley  was 
filled  with  gardens  of  vegetables  and  orchards  of  all  kinds  of  fruits,  watered 
by  several  fountains,  which  burst  forth  in  several  parts  and  flowed  west¬ 
ward  in  refreshing  streams.  It  came  upon  us  suddenly  like  a  scene  of  fairy 
enchantment.  We  saw  nothing  to  compare  with  it  in  all  Palestine.”  At 
the  time  we  visited  here  we  saw  little  to  charm  us.  The  main  highway  has 
always  passed  through  the  city  and  the  high  mountains  on  either  side  are 
natural  fortifications,  while  the  narrow  vale  could  be  easily  fortified  at  each 


71 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


end.  The  above  photograph  was  made  from  Mt.  Ebal  and  shows  the  city 
and  Mt.  Gerizim  with  the  pathway  of  its  ascent  to  the  place  of  the  Samaritan 
celebration  of  the  Passover. 

The  city  has  25,000  inhabitants,  mostly  Mohammedans,  who  have  always 
borne  a  bad  name  for  discourtesy  to  travelers,  whom  they  call  “Nasrani,” 
or  Nazarenes.  There  are  some  Christians  and  a  hospital  which  we  visited 
conducted  by  the  Church  of  England.  All  its  beds  were  full  and  conversa¬ 
tions  with  some  of  the  patients  revealed  deep  gratitude  for  such  Christian 
attention.  We  later  saw  the  physician  in  charge  devoutly  at  worship  at 
St.  George’s  Jerusalem.  There  is  a  mission  house  and  a  school  and  a 
Protestant  service  every  Sunday.  We  stopped  at  a  hotel  which  was  a  con¬ 
verted  monastery.  Its  walls  18  inches  thick  afforded  a  feeling  of  security 
but  its  little  cell  rooms  were  rather  stuffy.  The  table  fare  was  good  but 
certain  other  accommodations  very  unsatisfactory.  It  was  the  only  point 
of  our  whole  tour  where  the  hotel  accommodations  were  not  pleasing. 

The  most  interesting  point  of  observation  is  the  Samaritan  quarter  in 
the  southwestern  part  of  the  town.  Here  since  the  days  of  Alexander  have 
dwelt  all  of  this  sect  existent  in  the  world.  They  are  a  mixed  race  with 
a  mixed  religion.  Dating  back  from  the  rebuilding  of  Jerusalem  by 
Zerubabel,  they  have  been  inveterate  enemies  of  the  Jews.  At  that  time 
they  at  first  sought  to  assist  them  and  on  being  declined  did  all  possible  to 
prevent  it.  A  rival  temple  was  built  on  Mt.  Gerizim  and  though  it  is  long 
fallen  into  ruins,  only  some  columns  and  hewn  stones  remaining,  yet  they 
annually  hold  the  Feast  of  the  Passover  here  with  great  ceremony  and 
devotion.  A  few  have  witnessed  this  celebration  and  the  descriptions  of 
it  as  given  them  is  indeed  fascinating,  but  we  cannot  attempt  to  give  any 
account,  not  having  witnessed  it.  They  believe  in  one  God  and  are  expect¬ 
ing  the  advent  of  the  Messiah.  They  also  believe  in  immortality  and  the 
resurrection.  Their  Bible  is  the  Pentateuch  only.  They  claim  to  possess 
the  original  manuscript  written  by  Abishua,  the  great  grandson  of  Aaron, 
eleven  years  after  the  death  of  Moses,  and  that  the  present  antique  copy 
was  made  2600  years  ago.  The  High  Priest  who  admitted  us  to  their  syna¬ 
gogue  very  devoutly  brought  out  a  very  old  script  in  double  roll  in  a  brass 
case  adorned  with  Venetian  scroll  work  and  covered  with  a  silken  scarf. 
Scholais  have  dated  the  original  as  having  been  produced  about  the  sixth 
century.  They  exhibit  this  to  a  stream  of  tourists  with  all  seriousness  and 


72 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


would  be  offended  if  you  were  to  question  its  authenticity.  Small  repro¬ 
ductions  are  offered  for  sale  and  you  are  expected  to  buy.  You  are  also 
expected  to  leave  a  liberal  donation  to  the  Priest  for  carrying  on  his  work. 

There  are  today  but  200  Samaritans.  Their  policy  of  intermarriage  has 
depleted  the  sect  and  those  who  remain  are  sickly  and  pale  and  effeminate. 
Their  long,  curly,  silky  hair  and  loose  flowing  robes  make  one  want  to  ad¬ 
dress  them  as  “Madam.”  Soon  this  interesting  people  will  be  no  more  and 
the  Codex  Sinaiticus  will  repose  in  some  musty  vault  as  one  of  the  world’s 
forgotten  scrolls. 

The  chief  industry  of  Nablus  is  soap  making.  It  is  said  that  there  are 
twenty  soap  factories  here.  Apparently  all  of  it  is  exported  as  I  saw  no 
evidence  of  its  local  use.  It  is  made  from  olive  oil.  Its  bazarrhs  are  dark 
and  cramped  and  unattractive.  We  were  not  sorry  to  leave  and  to  hasten 
on  to  the  Holy  City,  which  we  reached  the  selfsame  day. 


73 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Jacob's  Well — Shiloh — Bethel. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Jacob’s  Well — Shiloh — Bethel. 

Less  than  one  mile  out  from  Shechem  in  the  beautiful  “vale  of  Sichenv’ 
are  two  of  the  most  authentic  spots  of  Palestine,  as  well  as  among  the  most 
venerated  and  interesting.  I  refer  to  Jacob’s  well  and  Joseph’s  tomb.  A 
well  of  water  here  is  everlasting  and  its  necessity  guarantees  its  preserva¬ 
tion.  A  tomb  of  some  worthy  is  always  a  venerated  shrine,  both  to  Jew 
and  Moslem,  as  previously  stated  and  of  which  more  will  be  said.  We  are 
told  in  Gen.  26  that  the  Philistines  had  filled  up  certain  wells  that  Abraham 
had  digged  in  Gerar.  It  is  probable  that  here  the  envy  of  the  Shechemite 
shepherds  made  it  necessary  that  Jacob  have  his  own  well.  The  Old  Testa¬ 
ment  is  silent  on  the  specific  reason  why  this  well  was  digged.  It  is  enough 
to  know  that  it  filled  its  place  not  only  for  Jacob,  his  own  family  and  flocks, 
but  that  it  still  lives  in  its  perennial  blessings  to  a  grateful  posterity.  It 
has  not  only  become  immortal  for  itself,  but  has  been  immortalized  in  that 
the  wearied  Master  rested  by  its  side  and  a  great  sermon  was  preached 
from  its  curb  as  a  pulpit,  even  though  His  audience  were  but  one  soiled 
and  misguided  soul.  A  little  northeast  on  the  slope  of  Ebal  is  Sychar, 
modern  Askar,  which  gives  the  name  to  this  valley,  the  plain  of  Askar.  This 
was  the  scene  of  a  fierce  battle  during  the  recent  war  and  this  pleasant 
vale  lay  heaped  with  the  slain  while  its  surface  was  pitted  with  shell  holes 
made  by  the  guns  of  both  British  and  Turk  from  their  emplacement  on  the 
neighboring  mountains.  How  different  that  day  from  one  long  gone  when 
the  Prince  of  Peace  sat  upon  the  cobbled  curb  of  the  well  and  surveyed  this 
valley  with  its  rich  and  fertile  acreage  waving  golden  in  the  breeze,  sym¬ 
bolizing  to  Him  that  greater  harvest  of  perishing  souls  of  that  and  of  every 
generation  with  its  ever  tragic  scarcity  of  reapers.  While  sitting  here  there 
came  the  woman  from  Sychar  to  fill  her  waterpot  from  its  refreshing 
abundance,  and  there  ensued  one  of  the  most  memorable  conversations  of 
history.  Here  He  unfolded  to  her  inquiring  soul  the  deep  truth  of  the 
spirituality  of  God  and  the  privileged  universality  of  His  worship,  as  well 
as  the  satisfying  and  copious  abundance  of  the  water  of  eternal  life  ever 
springing  up  within.  Here  met  the  sinner  and  the  Saviour  face  to  face. 
And  this  rapid  dialog  with  its  vivid  imagery  and  penetrating  diagnosis  of 
her  real  condition  led  her  to  cry  out  “Sir,  give  me  this  water  that  I  thirst 


77 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


not.”  Two  classes  understood  Him,  the  Pharisees  and  the  women,  the 
former  because  He  understood  them  and  hesitated  not  to  expose  their  shams 
and  hypocrisy,  and  the  latter  because  their  warm  hearts  felt  Him  and 
lavished  their  appreciative  affection  upon  Him,  sitting  at  His  feet  in  rapt 
meditation,  busy  in  the  details  of  His  personal  comfort,  breaking  their 
alabaster  boxes  over  His  head,  and  wiping  His  feet  with  their  flowing  hair. 
It  is  significant  that  this  anti- Jewish  woman  gave  the  first  recognition  of 
His  Messiaship  and  became  His  first  woman  missionary,  the  file  leader  of 
a  glorious  progeny.  She  is  an  example  of  the  double  truth  that  theological 
uncertainty  begets  and  betrays  moral  laxity  and  that  often  in  the  most 
sinful  and  unsuspected  hearts  there  are  desires,  questionings,  stirrings  of 
conscience,  and  intense  hungerings  for  satisfaction  and  for  certainty.  0, 
that  the  world  might  learn,  as  did  she,  that  all  it  needs  is  Jesus,  that  to 
come  face  to  face  with  Him  and  to  recognize  and  accept  Him  fills  every 
need  and  solves  every  problem. 

The  question  is  often  asked  as  to  why  she  came  to  this  well  more  than 
a  mile  from  her  home,  passing  by  other  springs  nearer  by.  If  she  came 
from  Shechem,  as  some  think,  there  was  abundance  of  water  within  the 
city.  The  quality  of  the  water  of  this  noted  well  is  one  answer.  It  is  soft, 
sparkling,  and  refreshing,  while  many  of  the  other  springs  are  limestone 
and  distasteful  and  unwholesome.  She  might  have  been  carrying  water 
for  the  reapers,  as  is  the  custom  today.  Perhaps  also  some  special  super¬ 
stition  might  have  attached  to  this  well.  We  do  not  know.  The  simplest 
reason  is  that  she  came  for  earthly  water  and  found  spiritual.  That  is 
enough. 

-  The  well  is  in  the  midst  of  a  walled  garden  of  three  acres.  Over  the 
well  is  a  Greek  church  in  process  of  building,  using  the  foundations  of 
an  ancient  church  erected  by  Constantine  in  the  early  part  of  the  fourth 
century.  A  modern  concrete  curb  extends  to  the  water  75  feet  below. 
There  is  15  feet  depth  of  water.  The  priest  in  charge  lowered  a  candle 
and  we  could  see  the  water  very  well.  A  bucket  full  was  drawn  up  and 
we  all  drank.  It  was  clear  as  crystal  and  refreshing. 

One  half  mile  north  of  the  well  is  Joseph’s  tomb  in  a  walled  enclosure. 
This  tomb,  as  above  stated,  is  authentic.  It  is  venerated  by  Jew,  Samaritan, 
Moslem,  and  Christian.  The  Jews  and  Samaritans  burn  offerings  here  to 


78 


Our  First  View  of  the  Holy  City. 


“We  entered  this,  the  Damascus  Gate,  on  the  north.” 


79 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


Joseph’s  memory.  He  had  been  dead  for  460  years  and  his  mummy  had  been 
carried  about  for  more  than  40  years  after  the  exodus  from  Egypt.  It 
doubtless  was  a  great  relief  to  them  to  arrive  at  last  at  the  spot  of  its 
intended  burial.  “And  the  bones  of  Joseph  which  the  Children  of  Israel 
brought  up  out  of  Egypt,  buried  they  in  Shechem,  in  a  parcel  of  ground 
which  Jacob  bought  of  the  sons  of  Hamor  for  an  hundred  pieces  of  silver, 
and  it  became  an  inheritance  to  the  children  of  Joseph.”  Joshua  24:32.  This 
one  portion  above  his  brethren  was  Jacob’s  dying  bequest.  The  authenticity 
of  this  spot  rests  on  Jewish  tradition,  and  also  on  the  corroborative  fact 
that  some  Jews  have  resided  on  and  near  this  spot  from  that  day  until 
this,  even  a  “remnant”  remained  there  during  the  captivity.  My  esteemed 
friend,  Dr.  Shelton  of  Emory  University  faculty,  visited  this  spot  in  June, 
1920,  as  a  member  of  the  Chicago  University  Archaeological  Expedition. 
He  learned  reliably  that  German  excavators  in  1914  had  unearthed  near 
Joseph’s  tomb  “a  suit  of  armor,  greaves,  helmet,  breastplate,  shield,  and 
mace,  all  Egyptian  and  all  of  pure  gold.”  He  concludes — and  rightly,  we 
believe — that  it  belonged  to  Joseph  and  was  used  by  him  in  Pharaoh’s 
luxurious  court  and  brought  from  Egypt  with  his  remains  and  with  them 
buried  here.  Up  to  the  time  of  Dr.  Shelton’s  statement  this  interesting 
find  had  not  been  made  public. 

Thirty  miles  south  is  Jerusalem  and  we  must  be  going.  The  road  as 
elsewhere  is  macadam  and  being  constantly  repaired.  It  winds  througn 
a  series  of  hills  and  valleys  that  grow  more  sacred  as  one  approaches 
the  ever  Holy  City.  In  this  thirty  miles,  taking  a  strip  ten  miles  wide, 
we  counted  more  than  a  hundred  small  towns,  all  of  them  similar,  and 
many  of  them  possessing  some  ancient  significance  dating  back  to  Hebrew 
times  and  possibly  to  the  days  of  the  Hittites  and  the  Perizzites.  The 
ruins  of  their  walled  cities  composed  of  large  square  stones,  rock-hewn 
tanks,  broken  cisterns,  neglected  threshing  floors,  old  wells,  gapped  and 
eroded  terraces,  give  evidence  of  a  more  vigorous  race  of  industrious  and 
skillful  men.  We  cannot  give  the  ancient  names  of  these  cities  nor  discuss 
more  than  a  few  of  the  most  important  of  them.  We  come  first  to  Shiloh 
(Seilun),  now  containing  but  a  few  huts,  piles  of  stones  on  the  hillside,  a  well 
and  a  tomb  beside  a  big  umbrella-shaped  tree.  Here  rested  the  ark  first  after 
its  long  wilderness  journey  after  a  short  stay  at  Gilgal,  and  here  was  set  up 
the  Tabernacle.  Here  danced  the  daughters  of  Israel  at  the  Yearly  Feast,  and 
here  assembled  to  worship  the  tribes  of  Israel  coming  from  near  and 


81 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


from  far.  Here  occurred  that  beautiful  and  tender  nursery  story  of 
Hannah  and  little  Samuel.  Bitter  in  soul  the  devout  mother  came  yearly 
with  her  companion  but  with  no  cooing  babe  on  her  breast  or  prattling 
son  by  her  side.  Slipping  aside  she  knelt  before  the  curtain  of  the  Taber¬ 
nacle  and  besought  God  for  a  son.  Eli  beheld  her  moving  lips  and  heaving 
breast  and  cruelly  surmised  that  she  was  intoxicated  with  wine.  How 
often  are  burdened  souls  thus  misunderstood!  God  rightly  interpreted  her 
prayer  and  answered  it  in  the  gift  of  a  son  who  later  filled  an  immense 
place  in  Israel’s  history  and  steered  it  across  a  very  dangerous  transition. 
This  child  was  formally  dedicated  to  God  and  accepted  by  Him.  To  Eli’s 
custody  she  committed  him,  coming  up  frequently  to  bring  the  little  coat 
and  other  simple  necessities.  And  one  night  while  he  lay  in  his  little 
room,  perhaps  in  the  dim  light  of  his  lamp,  or  more  probably  while  the 
light  of  the  moon  streamed  through  his  little  window,  God  spoke  to  him 
thrice  and  called  him  definitely  to  his  life  work  so  important  and  eventful. 
Then  one  sad  day  Old  Eli,  sitting  in  the  gate,  heard  the  doom  of  his  family, 

the  ruin  of  his  house,  the  death  of  his  vile  sons,  and  the  capture  of  the 

Ark  of  the  Covenant  by  the  Philistines,  and  fell  over  dead  with  a  broken 

heart  and  a  broken  neck.  This  was  the  end  of  Shiloh  and  after  this  it  is 

seldom  mentioned  save  as  an  example  of  that  penalty  that  ever  follows 
moral  decadence  and  light  esteem  of  moral  standards  and  requirements. 
Ahijah  the  prophet  dwelt  here  and  hither  came  in  disguise  the  wife  of 
King  Jeroboam  to  learn  the  doom  of  that  sinful  house.  There  is  here  one 
level  spot  77  feet  wide  and  412  feet  long  cut  in  the  side  of  the  rocky  hill 
which  was  very  probably  the  site  of  the  Tabernacle  which  tradition  says 
“was  a  structure  of  low  stone  walls  with  a  tent  drawn  over  the  top.” 

Hastening  south,  we  pass  the  ruins  of  Bethel,  very  similar  to  the  ruins 
of  Shiloh.  Like  most  Palestinian  towns,  present  and  ancient,  Bethel  was 
built  on  a  hill.  This  custom  existed  for  two  reasons.  First,  for  defensive 
purposes,  and  second,  because  of  the  value  of  the  lower  lands  for  fields 
and  vineyards.  It  contains  today  500  inhabitants.  There  are  remnants 
of  an  old  Greek  church  and  a  tower.  Here  Abraham  came  in  his  journey 
to  Egypt  from  Haran  and  here  he  built  an  altar  to  which  he  returned  years 
later  rich  and  prosperous,  but  having  engaged  in  some  doubtful  ex¬ 
periences,  remorse  for  which  possibly  helped  to  guide  him  back  to  that 
sacred  spot  of  tender  emotions  and  holy  associations.  Here  Jacob  came, 
weary  with  his  forty-mile  tramp  from  Beer-sheba,  having  tarried  at 


82 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


Beeroth,  a  few  miles  south,  till  the  sun  was  set,  and  lighted  on  “a  certain 
place.”  Tired,  lonely,  heartsick,  perhaps  remorseful  over  his  complicity 
in  the  deception  of  blind  old  Isaac,  he  threw  himself  on  the  dry  earth  and 
pillowed  his  head  on  a  stone  and  sank  into  slumber,  doubtless  remember¬ 
ing  that  God  had  here  appeared  to  his  Grandfather  Abraham.  As  he  slept 
God  swung  open  the  gates  of  heaven  and  a  golden  staircase  was  pushed 
out  and  downward  until  its  base  rested  on  two  large  stones  by  his  pillow, 
and  up  and  down  this  lambent  stairway  tripped  the  radiant  angels  of  God. 
He  awoke  and  called  it  El-Bethel,  the  House  of  God.  When  he  lay  down 
it  was  but  a  “certain  place.”  When  he  arose  it  was  “the  House  of  God.” 
God  was  there,  and  His  presence  was  at  once  its  consecration  and  its 
glory.  And  when  after  many  years  he  returned  as  a  rich  and  prosperous 
patriarch  he  must  again  get  back  to  Bethel  and  worship.  It  is  notable 
that  Jacob  got  his  vision  on  the  very  spot  where  his  Grandfather  had 
built  an  altar.  His  pillow  might  have  been  one  of  the  old  altar  stones. 
Maybe  this  guided  him  to  Bethel.  At  any  rate  let  parents  remember  that 
high  religious  experiences  reach  further  than  one’s  immediate  day  and 
generation  and  carry  to  unborn  generations  some  sacred  benefits.  Centuries 
later  the  Master  gave  to  Nathaniel,  the  guileless  Israelite,  the  real  in¬ 
terpretation  of  this  heavenly  vision.  He  told  him  that  Himself,  Jesus,  was 
the  golden  staircase  and  that  His  atonement  linked  earth  to  heaven  and 
opened  its  possibilities  and  revelations  to  all  the  willing  sons  of  men. 
Jeroboam  prostituted  Bethel  to  heathen  worship  and  basest  idolatry  im¬ 
ported  from  Egypt.  He  mocked  God  and  made  a  sacrilegious  parody  of 
the  temple  worship  at  Jerusalem.  The  curse  of  God  fell  upon  Bethel  and 
the  bones  of  false  prophets  and  hireling  priests  were  exhumed  and  burned 
to  ashes  and  scattered  to  the  four  winds  of  heaven.  Nothing  remains  now 
of  temple  or  palace.  Altars,  shady  groves,  and  facilities  of  unspeakable 
idolatry  have  gone,  despite  the  glorious  appearances  to  Abrham  and  that; 
vision  to  Jacob  of  heaven  coming  down  and  transforming  the  barren  moor¬ 
land  into  the  House  of  God.  Amos  cries  out  in  his  righteous  protest 
against  false  worship,  “Seek  not  Bethel  *  *  *  Bethel  shall  come  to 
nought.”  Amos  5:5.  The  prophecy  is  fulfilled. 

A  few  miles  below  Bethel  we  pass  Beeroth  (El-Bireh)  a  town  of  800 
people  with  a  gushing  fountain  and  a  shady  grove.  It  is  the  reputed  spot 
where  Joseph  and  Mary  missed  the  child  Jesus.  But  let  us  hasten  on. 
We  are  within  ten  miles  of  Jerusalem.  We  are  impatient.  Letters  from 


83 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


home  will  be  there,  we  are  tired,  and  glad  that  tomorrow  is  the  Sabbath  — 
and  it  is  the  Holy  City. 

Next  is  Ramah,  a  town  of  Benjamin  six  miles  from  Jerusalem,  where 
Ahab  was  killed  and  Jehu  was  proclaimed  king.  Two  miles  west  of  Ramah 
is  Gibeon  where  Joshua  commanded  the  sun  to  stand  still.  To  the  right 
as  we  pass  is  Neby  Samwil,  the  ancient  Mizpah,  where  Samuel  was  buried, 
his  tomb  being  shown  you.  Here  Saul  was  selected  as  Israel’s  first  king. 
Many  other  events  transpired  here.  It  is  one  of  the  highest  points  of 
southern  Palestine,  being  2935  feet  elevation,  and  so  commands  a  grand 
panoramic  view  of  the  land  including  Jerusalem,  and  many  thousands  of 
pilgrims  have  gazed  on  the  city  for  the  first  time  from  this  vantage  point. 
Here  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion,  in  the  third  Crusade  1190  A.  D.,  first  beheld 
it  and  covering  his  face  with  his  hands  exclaimed  as  he  knelt,  “Ah„  Lord 
God,  I  pray  that  I  may  never  see  thy  Holy  City  if  so  be  that  I  may  not 
rescue  it  from  the  hands  of  thine  enemies.”  He  might  have  done  so,  bur 
for  some  unaccountable  reason  he  effected  a  compromise  with  Saladin  by 
which  western  pilgrims  might  visit  Jerusalem  exempt  from  the  high  taxes 
which  Saracen  princes  had  hitherto  imposed. 

How  our  hearts  swell  as  we  too  gaze  upon  it.  Within  a  few  minutes 
more  “our  feet  shall  stand  within  thy  gates  0,  Jerusalem.”  Over  our 
heads  an  airplane  is  sailing  and  on  the  road  Fords  are  passing,  while  a 
caravan  camel  train  slowly  winds  its  weary  way  toward  the  city  as  ic 
was  thousands  of  years  ago.  The  new  and  the  old.  They  are  both  here. 
But  how  long  one  cannot  predict.  The  wheels  of  modern  progress  are 
turning  fast.  If  allowed,  commercialism  will  modernize  all  institutions 
and  remake  the  surface  of  the  country.  That  may  be  best.  It  is  the 
program  of  Zionism.  Not  long  will  the  old  Palestine  remain.  Those  who 
would  see  it  as  it  has  been  must  hurry.  Let  us  hope  that  enough  of  the 
old  will  remain  to  keep  alive  the  spirit  of  reverent  visitation  and  venera¬ 
tion.  At  least  the  mountains,  the  streams  and  lakes,  the  wells,  and  the 
tombs  will  remain.  We  are  at  the  Damascus  Gate.  We  would  like  to  have 
our  readers  enter  with  us.  But  today’s  journey  has  been  long  and  wearisome, 
and  we  trust  interesting,  and  we  shall  request  that  you  wait  until  next 
chapter  to  visit  the  Holy  City.  Until  then,  good  night. 


84 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


Entering  Jerusalem. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


Entering  Jerusalem. 

Less  than  a  mile  north  we  ascend  the  hill  Scopus  overlooking  the  city 
and  get  the  first  close  up  and  satisfactory  view.  For  three  days  through  the 
hot  Syrian  sun  we  have  been  working  our  way  southward,  reading  and  dream¬ 
ing  of  Jerusalem  as  many  thousands  of  pilgrims  have  done  before.  Now  we 
are  about  to  enter  and  the  dream  of  years  about  to  be  realized.  Jerusalem, 
Jerusalem,  city  of  the  Great  King,  the  lode  star  of  Jew,  Moslem  and  Christian, 
illustrious  above  all  earthly  cities  in  song,  story,  and  deed  from  the  time 
of  Abraham  and  Melchizedek  to  General  Allenby  and  Sir  Samuel!  Within' 
thine  ancient  precincts  kings  have  reigned  in  splendor,  and  events  most 
momentous  have  transpired,  chief  among  which  was  that  day  of  mockery,, 
farcical  trial,  and  unjust  death  of  One  branded  as  an  impostor,  but  One 
who  “lifted  the  gates  of  empires  from  their  hinges  and  turned  back  the 
stream  of  centuries,”  and  now  rules  in  highest  heaven  over  angels  and 
principalities  and  powers.  Jerusalem,  city  of  David — and  of  Jesus.  We 
enter  the  Damascus  gate  and  pass  through  the  Damascus  street  and  soon 
reach  our  commodious  and  comfortable  hotel.  It  is  five  o’clock.  Dr.  Rowland 
and  I  have  a  large,  airy  corner  room  overlooking  a  busy  street,  our  beds  are 
restful,  the  fare  and  the  service  fine.  Here  we  shall  spend  the  most 
memorable  week  of  our  lives.  From  this  room  we  shall  go  out  with  sad¬ 
ness,  bidding  good-bye,  perhaps  forever,  to  the  Holy  City.  The  first  letters 
received  for  a  month  since  leaving  home  are  given  us,  “good  news  in  a 
far  country”  indeed.  After  a  night  of  sweet  rest  we  arise  early  on  the 
Sabbath  and  attend  High  Mass  at  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher,  visiting 
the  service  at  both  the  Orthodox  and  the  Armenian  Chapels.  The  former 
was  gorgeous  and  more  largely  attended.  The  vested  choir  sang  with  sin¬ 
cere  and  practiced  response  to  the  chantings  of  the  richly  robed  priest 
who  first  knelt  and  then  stood  before  a  most  gorgeous  altar.  Later  he 
took  a  position  at  the  side  of  the  Chapel  and  the  worshippers  passed  in 
file  by  him,  taking  a  fragment  of  bread,  kissing  his  hand,  and  receiving 
his  blessing.  It  was  very  impressive — for  them — and  we  Protestants  stood 
in  respectful  silence,  trying  to  sense  through  much  form  and  unintelligible 
ritual  phrase  the  real  presence  of  Him  who  rose  again  somewhere  not  far 
away,  but  probably  at  another  site. 


87 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


At  nine  A.  M.  we  attended  English  service  at  Christ  Church  and  were 
proud  to  worship  with  a  company  of  khaki-clad  English  soldiers.  At  six 
P.  M.  we  attended  service  at  St.  George’s,  north  of  the  walls.  The  seimon 
was  likewise  good  and  helpful  but  the  acoustics  bad,  though  the  church 
itself  is  elegant.  Nearby  this  church  is  the  Bishop’s  house  and  St.  George’s 
Schocl.  There  are  other  Protestant  churches  in  the  city,  including  the 
Christian  Alliance  of  America,  but  we  had  but  one  Sabbath  here  and  with 
the  service  yet  to  describe  the  day  was  too  full  for  others. 

We  shall  ever  remember  a  most  delightful  visit  by  special  invitation 
to  the  American  Colony,  located  to  the  north,  by  which  we  passed  cn  the 
preceding  afternoon.  This  colony  is  like  a  bubbling  spring  underneath 
shady  groves  in  a  desert  land.  It  is  a  little  America  in  a  Moslem  world 
Here  aie  homes  Lke  our  own  and  here  the  dear  old  United  States  language 
is  spoken.  This  colony  was  founded  years  ago  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Fred 
Jester,  who  still  preside  over  its  interests  and  direct  its  welfare.  Mrs. 
Jester  is  indeed  a  strong  and  magnetic  personality.  She  is  the  presiding 
genius  of  the  American  Colony.  Beautiful  in  form,  feature,  and  character, 
with  a  Christian  smile  that  never  comes  off  and  a  heart  filled  with  sympathy 
and  love  to  all  the  world’s  unfortunate,  she  has  through  the  years  moved 
about  Jeiusalem  as  an  angel  of  love  and  mercy  and  is  today  the  best  loved 
and  most  nfluential  person  in  the  city.  She  was  the  daughter  of  Mr.  H. 
G.  Spaffard  of  Chicago,  born  after  the  following  episode.  He  was  a  promi¬ 
nent  lawyer  and  Christian.  Mis.  Spaffard  with  two  daughters  were  sail¬ 
ing  to  Europe  in  the  interest  of  their  education.  During  a  Violent  storm 
the  vessel  was  wrecked  and  the  daughters  were  drowned.  After  a  week 
of  great  suffering  the  mother  finally  reached  a  cable  office  on  the  French 
coast  and  sent  the  following  message  to  her  anxious  husband  who  had  read 
of  the  supposed  loss  of  the  ship,  “Saved  alone.”  As  a  result  of  this  ex¬ 
perience  most  heart  breaking  this  great  Christian  layman  wrote  the  cele¬ 
brated  hymn,  “It  Is  Well  With  My  Soul,”  a  hymn  sung  around  the  world 
with  ever  increasing  popularity.  A  delightful  religious  service  of  songs 
and  prayers  was  held  and  we  greatly  enjoyed  its  beauty  and  simplicity. 
All  of  the  one  hundred  who  compose  this  colony  are  Christians  and  most 
of  them  cultured.  There  were  a  number  of  fine  and  accomplished  musicians 
with  splendid  voices.  The  rendering  of  the  above  mentioned  song  was 
especially  beautiful  and  impressive  under  the  circumstances  related  by  the 
daughter  of  the  composer.  We  were  loath  to  depart.  During  our  stay  we 


88 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


met  various  members  of  this  colony  who  were  profuse  in  kind  attentions 
and  courtesies.  It  is  a  communistic  colony.  Each  puts  in  all  he  has,  takes 
out  whatever  is  needed  for  self  and  family  to  live  on,  and  all  work  for  the 
common  good,  there  being  a  use  for  every  trade  or  profession.  At  least 
one  converted  Jew  is  a  member.  They  are  premillenarianists,  expecting 
Christ  to  come  the  second  time,  while  the  Jews  expect  the  first  coming  of 
the  Messiah.  There  is  a  separate  school  for  their  children.  The  teaching 
is  beautifully  Christian.  They  have  large  business  interests,  chief  amongst 
which  is  a  department  store  by  the  Jaffa  Gate  which  is  the  largest  com¬ 
mercial  house  in  the  city.  They  also  own  much  land  adjacent  to  the  city. 
It  is  hard  to  keep  back  the  suspicion  that  commercialism  plays  its  part 
in  this  interesting  colony.  However,  fairness  compels  us  to  state  that  we 
believe  it  is  subordinated  to  spiritual  ends  and  sentiment.  During  the  war 
conditions  in  Jerusalem  were  most  deplorable  and  tens  of  thousands  of  the 
poor  died  of  poverty  and  plague.  In  addition  the  wounded  were  brought 
here  in  great  numbers.  Mrs.  Jester  organized  a  relief  corps  and  virtually 
all  the  good  women  of  her  colony  gave  themselves  to  the  work  of  a  sweet 
and  helpful  ministry.  She  tells  us  that  she  was  binding  a  broken  leg  of  a 
Turkish  soldier  when  a  nurse  came  and  whispered  softly  that  the  English 
had  entered  the  city.  The  next  thing  she  knew  she  was  kissing  the  trappings 
of  the  General’s  saddle  and  weeping  like  a  child.  She  said  that  the  re¬ 
joicing  of  the  people  of  the  city  was  unbounded.  The  writer  well  re¬ 
members  the  Sabbath  morning  when  he  knelt  in  his  congregation  and 
joined  them  in  devout  thanksgiving  for  this  happy  and  significant  event. 
For  the  rule  of  the  Turk  in  Palestine,  as  everywhere  else,  was  and  is  an 
open  cancer  on  the  world.  But  Palestine  of  all  the  whole  world  should  be 
saved  from  his  unspeakable  dominion.  This  day  it  had  happened  and  the 
world’s  heart  was  full  of  joy.  Christian  and  Jew  had  long  grieved  at  Infidel 
occupation  of  Gethsemane,  Olivet,  Calvary,  and  the  Garden.  The  Kaiser  had 
joined  hands  with  the  Sultan  in  holding  it  for  Turkey,  all  the  time  slyly 
planning  for  its  eventual  possession  by  himself  as  holding  the  key  to  all 
the  vast  east  and  disjoining  India  and  Egypt,  two  of  England’s  dependencies. 
He  built  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Redemeer  and  the  Kaiserein  Victoria 
Hospital  and  installed  wireless  and  powerful  searchlights  on  their  towers 
in  anticipation  of  military  needs.  The  entrance  of  Allenby  therefore  into 
Jerusalem  meant  the  breaking  of  Turkish  misrule  and  oppression,  as  well 
as  Teutonic,  but  the  restoration  of  sacred  places  to  Christianity.  It  is  the 


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A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


irony  of  history  that  he  used  in  this  capture  a  division  of  Mohammedan 
troops  from  India  being  transferred  from  France  because  of  the  severe 
climate. 

Allenby  had  been  steadily  working  up  from  Egypt,  building  railroads  as 
he  came.  He  also  laid  pipes  for  both  oil  and  water.  The  Turks  little 
dreamed  this  possible.  They  had  received  from  one  of  their  revered 
teachers  the  saying  that  the  Turk  should  not  be  driven  out  of  Palestine 
until  the  Nile  flowed  into  it  across  the  desert.  Allenby  actually  brought 
the  Nile  waters  to  Palestine  and  thereby  made  possible  the  fulfillment  of 
the  saying.  Of  course  the  two  had  no  connection  save  that  of  a  mere 
coincidence.  He  steadily  built  his  march  northward.  Dividing  his  troops 
into  two  divisions,  he  directed  one  toward  Bethlehem  and  back  toward  the  Dead 
Sea  behind  Jerusalem.  The  other  he  led  northward  along  the  Mediterranean 
coast  route  and  through  the  plain  of  Esdraelon  and  back  southward  along  the 
route  we  traveled  and,  as  mentioned  in  Chapter  VII,  a  bloody  battle  was 
fought  near  Shechem.  There  was  stiff  fighting  all  along  the  line.  But 
finally  Jerusalem  was  practically  surrounded  and  on  December  9,  1917,  at 
eight  A.  M.,  after  several  hard-fought  battles,  the  Turks  having  retired 
within  the  city,  the  Mayor  and  Chief  of  Police  appeared  with  a  flag  of 
truce  and  surrendered  the  city.  Two  days  later,  the  11th,  at  noon,  he 
entered.  In  closing  a  lengthy  report  he  says  in  a  short  twelve  word  para¬ 
graph,  “At  noon  on  the  11th  I  made  my  official  entry  into  Jerusalem.”  Never 
so  pregnant  a  statement  in  all  the  past  literature  of  war.  Condensed  into 
twelve  words,  this  statement  represents  the  culmination  of  centuries  of 
siege  and  conflict.  Let  us  hope  that  never  again  shall  the  sword  be  un¬ 
sheathed  in  the  land  of  the  Prince  of  Peace.  As  above  mentioned,  his 
entrance  was  enthusiastically  welcomed.  Westward  flocked  crowds  of  pepole 
out  of  the  city  to  greet  the  conquerors.  Armenians,  Greeks,  Mohammedans 
cried  “Bravo,”  “Hurrah,”  and  old  men  wept  for  joy  while  from  the  walls 
showers  of  flowers  fell  upon  their  heads.  Allenby  entered  on  foot.  How 
different  from  that  pompous  cavalcade  led  by  the  Kaiser  William  in  1898. 
Then  no  gate  in  the  city  was  worthy  for  his  imperial  personage  to  enter 
and  a  special  gate  was  cut  through  the  wall  by  the  side  of  the  Jaffa  Gate. 
His  Imperial  Highness  passed  through  on  his  prancing  charger  bedecked  in 
richest  trappings.  The  lordly  rider,  covered  with  his  official  insignia  and 
decorations,  looking  neither  to  the  right  nor  the  left,  marched  in  state  into 
the  city  of  the  Great  King. 


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A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


General  Allenby  said  that  he  was  not  worthy  to  ride  into  the  city  where 
the  sacred  feet  of  the  King  so  often  walked  and  he  dismounted  and  with 
uncovered  head  walked  humbly  into  the  city  and  into  the  hearts  of  the 
world’s  millions.  I  wish  that  I  could  build  a  monument  to  him  as  high  as  the 
stars,  but  a  higher  and  more  enduring  one  will  stand  as  long  as  the  stars 
twinkle  in  the  night,  that  one  builded  in  the  grateful  appreciation  and  af¬ 
fections  of  all  good  men  everywhere.  In  this  connection  I  will  mention  tins 
other  fact.  He  gave  implicit  command  that  not  a  single  gun  was  to  be 
fired  in  capturing  the  city  so  that  every  sacred  place  should  be  preserved 
intact.  How  different  from  the  sacrilegious  conduct  of  the  Kaiser’s  cohorts. 
They  seemed  to  make  churches  their  especial  targets  and  the  skeletons  of 
cathedrals  of  fame  and  beauty  now  stand  against  the  sky  as  silent  accusers 
of  His  Majesty’s  martial  methods.  The  world  remembers  that  the  Churcn 
of  the  Madeline  in  Paris  was  hit  by  a  shell  from  the  Big  Bertha  and  more 
than  a  hundred  worshippers,  including  women  and  children,  were  dashed 
into  eternity.  And  in  Ypres  the  writer  saw  the  remains  of  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  cathedrals  of  the  battlefield  section  completely  demolished.  I 
have  the  following  on  reliable  authority.  The  Turkish  officers,  inpsired 
by  German  officers  who  had  directed  them  all  along,  had  mined  all  the  sacred 
places.  These  were  to  be  destroyed  on  retiring  so  that  the  English  should 
get  the  blame.  General  Allenby  knew  of  this  and  the  preceding  evening 
he  called  a  council  in  his  tent.  The  officers  thought  that  the  tactics  of  the 
capture  would  be  discussed.  Instead  he  called  all  of  them  to  prayer  and 
for  an  hour  they  knelt,  beseeching  God  to  spare  the  city  from  such  wanton 
desecrative  destruction.  It  is  significant  that  not  a  mine  was  exploded  and 
the  Turks  retired  in  order.  One  of  Allenby’s  first  commands,  after  reading 
his  four  language  proclamation  from  the  steps  of  David’s  Tower,  was  to  as¬ 
sure  the  citizens  that  they  might  proceed  unmolested  in  their  regular 
business  and  that  those  in  charge  of  sacred  places  might  continue  un¬ 
disturbed,  and  that  this  policy  would  obtain  all  over  Palestine.  This  wise 
and  conciliatory  policy  is  still  in  vogue.  Full  religious  freedom  to  all  faiths 
and  cults  was  and  is  granted  with  full  permission  to  operate  schools  as 
heretofore.  All  previously  existing  Turkish  laws  that  are  just  were  recog¬ 
nized.  By  way  of  further  contrast  of  Turkish  and  British  methods  I  will 
mention  that  one  of  the  last  acts  of  the  former  in  Jerusalem  was  to  arrest 
and  remove  the  Latin  Patriarch  (Head  of  the  Roman  Church)  and  order 
the  deportation  of  the  Heads  of  the  Greek  and  Armenian  Churches  under 


91 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


guard  with  fixed  bayonets.  One  of  Allenby’s  first  acts  was  to  place  a 
strong  guard  of  Mohammedan  troops  from  India,  the  123rd  Outram’s  rifles, 
over  the  Mosque  of  Omar.  The  ceremony  of  occupation  was  of  the  very 
simplest  nature.  The  General  with  a  guard  of  150  allied  soldiers  all  told 
quietly  marched  200  yards  inside  of  the  Jaffa  Gate,  read  the  proclamation, 
religious  bodies  and  retired.  No  bells  from  ancient  belfries  rang  their  peals 
held  a  simple  conference  with  the  Mayor,  received  the  heads  of  the  various 
of  triumph,  no  salute  jarred  the  walls,  no  shouts  of  victory,  no  hoisting  of 
flags,  and  no  hauling  down  of  flags,  for  there  were  none.  Allenby’s  action 
here  shows  him  to  be  not  only  a  great  Christian,  but  a  master  strategist. 
This  act  of  diplomacy  is  only  paralleled  by  General  Grant’s  suggestion  to 
General  Lee  at  Appomattox  that  the  defeated  Confederate  soldiers  should 
take  their  horses  home  with  them  to  cultivate  the  neglected  fields,  and  also 
his  chivalrous  return  of  Lee’s  sword. 

“Jerusalem  is  a  city  that  is  compact  together,”  says  the  Psalmist.  It 
was  true  in  his  day  and  it  is  true  in  ours.  There  are  probably  80,000 
people  within  the  city  and  20,000  without.  These  80,000  live  in  an  area 
2,600  feet  from  north  to  south  and  2,400  feet  fiom  east  to  west.  They  are 
crowded  into  congested  districts,  called  “quarters.”  There  are  four,  the 
Jewish,  the  Moslem,  the  Christian,  and  the  Armenian.  The  Jews  pre¬ 
dominate,  there  being  perhaps  50,000  in  the  city,  but  elsewhere  the  Syrians 
are  far  in  the  majority.  As  a  rule  Syrians  are  Mohammedans.  The  “New 
Jerusalem”  is  outside  the  walls  to  the  north  and  west.  It  is  comparatively 
recent.  Formerly  marauding  bands  of  Bedouins  coming  from  across  the 
Jordan  made  it  unsafe  to  sleep  without  the  walls.  Now  it  is  as  safe  outside 
as  inside  and  future  developments  will  continue  in  that  direction.  The 
walls  will  remain  as  relics  of  the  past  but  will  never  be  rebuilt.  A  new 
day  in  Palestine  has  dawned  and  whether  Zionism  is  realized  or  not,  a 
modern  civilization  is  coming  and  with  it  a  strong  police  power  to  protect 
every  honest  man  and  legitimate  industry.  The  walls  as  they  now  stand, 
allowing  for  repairs,  were  built  by  Sultan  Suleiman  in  1542,  being  built 
on  previous  foundations,  some  of  them  dating  back  to  the  days  of  King 
David,  notably  the  Wailing  Place,  about  which  more  will  be  said.  The  walls 
are  ten  feet  thick  and  average  forty  feet  high,  some  points  being  higher 
than  others  owing  to  the  unlevel  ground.  The  stones  are  large  and  held 
gates,  the  chief  of  which  are  the  Damascus  on  the  north,  the  Jaffa 
together  by  their  own  weight,  mortar  not  being  used.  There  are  eight 


92 


The  Golden  Gate  on  the  East. 

“Through  this  gate  the  Master  went  back  and  forth  and  by  it  lay  the 
lame  man  healed  by  Peter  and  John  ” 


93 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


on  the  west,  the  Zion  on  the  south,  and  the  Golden  Gate  on  the  east. 
The  others  are  important  but  smaller.  The  Golden  Gate  has  long  been 
closed  and  Moslem  tradition  says  it  will  remain  sealed  up  unil  some  ruler 
enters  it  and  conquers  the  city.  Hence  it  is  jealously  guarded,  or  has  been. 
This  gate  is  that  through  which  the  Master  went  back  and  forth  from  the 
city  to  Olivet,  Gethsemane,  and  Bethany.  It  was  called  the  Beautiful 
Gate  (See  photo.)  Through  it  He  came  on  His  Triumphant  Entrance. 
By  it  lay  the  impotent  man  healed  by  Peter  and  John.  St.  Stephen’s  Gate 
just  to  the  north  of  the  Golden  Gate  takes  its  place  for  travel.  They  of¬ 
fered  to  open  it  for  Allenby  but  he  declined.  The  Damascus  Gate  was  that 
through  which  He  was  doubtless  led  away  to  be  Crucified  and  through  which 
He  went  in  traveling  to  and  from  Jerusalem  from  the  north  country  of 
Galilee.  St.  Paul  went  out  of  this  gate  on  his  way  to  Damascus.  He  went 
out  of  it  a  desperate  persecutor  of  the  church.  When  he  returned  by  this 
gate  he  was  a  desperate  and  aggressive  Christian. 


95 


CHAPTER  IX, 


Jerusalem — Mt.  Zion — Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Jerusalem — Mt.  Zion — Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher. 

Jerusalem  is  situated  on  a  high  mountain  ridge  surrounded  by  white  lime¬ 
stone  hills  which  act  as  natural  defences  against  the  approach  of  enemies. 
Only  at  the  north  is  the  city  comparatively  undefended  and  every  invasion 
has  occurred  from  that  direction.  Even  there  is  Mount  Scopus,  a  broad, 
high  plateau  overlooking  the  city.  Here  Titus  encamped  in  his  memorable 
three  years’  siege  which  ended  in  its  destruction  A.  D.  70.  On  two  sides 
there  are  deep  valleys,  once  mountain  gorges,  Kedron  on  the  east  and 
Hinnom  on  the  west,  and  these  uniting  on  the  immediate  south  of  the  city 
made  it  with  its  strong  walls  well  nigh  impregnable.  Another  ravine,  now 
but  an  inconsiderable  valley,  the  Tyropean,  runs  through  from  north  to 
south,  and  at  right  angles  to  this  another  smaller  one.  These  cut  the  city 
into  four  natural  divisions  called  mounts.  There  is  Mt.  Zion  on  the  south¬ 
west,  Mt.  Moriah  on  the  southeast,  Mt.  Bezetha  on  the  northwest,  and  Mt. 
Akra  on  the  northeast.  The  first  two  figured  largely  in  the  ancient  history 
of  the  city;  the  third,  Bezetha,  is  the  reputed  location  of  the  Crucifixion  and 
Sepulchre,  while  the  fourth  is  of  minor  consequence.  Its  highest  point  is 
Mt.  Zion,  2550  feet  above  the  Mediterranean  and  3842  above  the  Dead  Sea. 

The  houses  are  all  of  stone,  the  streets,  save  two,  are  but  alleys  running 
zigzag  and  criscross,  often  covered  over  with  sleeping  apartments  and  along 
the  sides  of  which  streets  are  congested  the  bazarrs  which  do  not  compare 
with  those  of  Damascus.  The  houses  of  the  better  class  are  made  of  a 
number  of  separate  apartments  ranged  around  an  open  court  with  the 
cistern  in  the  center.  The  floors  of  the  common  homes  are  of  hard  cement; 
of  the  better  homes,  beautiful  white  and  colored  tiling.  The  roofs  are  flat 
as  of  old.  It  is  hoped,  with  much  probability,  that  much  of  interior  Jerusalem 
will  remain  as  at  present.  However,  of  the  210  acres  comprising  it  there 
is  much  that  needs  to  be  destroyed  and  renovated  in  the  interest  of  health 
and  sanitation. 

The  Jews  largely  predominate.  In  fact,  most  of  the  Jews  of  Palestine 
are  congested  in  Jerusalem.  There  are  more  than  50000  here,  many  of 
them  poor  and  helpless,  their  support  being  provided  for  by  Jewish  Chaluka, 
or  charity.  Many  came  hither  to  meet  the  coming  Messiah  and  many  to  be 
buried  in  sacred  soil.  Most  of  the  rest  of  the  population  are  Syrians  and 


99 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


therefore  Moslems.  However,  there  are  a  few  thousand  Catholics  divided 
into  sects  of  Greeks,  Romans,  Armenians,  Copts,  and  Abysinians.  A  few 
hundred  Protestants  with  several  churches  are  also  here.  The  industries 
are  the  manufacture  and  sale  of  souvenirs,  mother  of  pearl  beads,  amber 
necklaces,  olive  wood  articles  galore,  postcards  of  any  place  in  Palestine, 
pressed  flowers,  soap  made  from  olive  oil,  pottery,  and  the  merchandise  of 
the  bazarrs.  Carpenter  and  shoe  shops  abound,  the  latter  more  numerous. 
Olive  oil  is  exported  in  quantities,  and  leather  is  made  from  hides  of  numerous 
sheep  and  goats. 

The  word  Jerusalem  means  “Habitation  of  Peace.”  In  the  days  of 
Abraham  2000  years  before  Christ  it  was  called  Salem  (Gen.  14:18.)  Later 
it  was  captured  by  the  Jebusites  and  called  Jeru-Salem,  the  name  first  oc¬ 
curring  1500  B.  C.  as  a  Jebusite  city.  Joshua  captured  it  1445  B.  C.  In 
1048  B.  C.  David  occupied  the  stronghold  of  Zion  as  a  residence  and  made 
Jerusalem  his  Capitol.  His  kingdom  afterward  stretched  from  the  Euphrates 
to  Egypt.  Under  Solomon  it  reached  the  zenith  of  its  glory  climaxed  i  i 
the  building  of  the  Temple.  In  586  B.  C.  after  a  long  siege  the  city  was 
taken  by  Nebuchadnezzar,  who  destroyed  it  and  carried  away  its  inhabitants 
in  captivity  to  Babylon.  In  517  B.  C.  they  were  allowed  to  return  and  to 
rebuild  the  Temple,  though  its  grandeur  did  not  approach  that  of  Solomon. 
Sixty-two  years  later  the  walls  were  rebuilt.  Antiochus  of  Syria  captured 
and  destroyed  it  168  B.  C.  and  grossly  desecrated  the  Temple  and  Holy  of 
Holies.  This  incited  the  revolt  of  the  Maccabees,  native  Jews,  and  in  165 
B.  C.  its  independence  was  secured  and  the  Temple  worship  restored.  In 
54  B.  C.  the  Romans  under  Crassus  conquered  it.  For  17  years  it  swung 
back  and  forth.  In  37  B.  C.  Herod  captured  it  and  in  17  B.  C.  to  conciliate 
the  Jews  rebuilt  and  enlarged  the  temple,  perhaps  excelling  in  magnificence 
that  of  Solomon.  In  66  A.  D.  the  Jews  revolted  and  nearly  four  years 
later  after  a  most  severe  siege  the  city  was  retaken,  the  temple  de¬ 
stroyed  and  burned  by  Titus  of  Rome.  In  131  A.  D.  the  Roman  Emperor 
Hadrian  conquered  and  rebuilt  the  city  but  there  was  little  development 
until  the  early  part  of  the  fourth  century  when  Rome,  being  made  Christian 
under  Constantine,  Jerusalem  became  a  nominal  Christian  city.  In  636  A.  D. 
it  fell  to  the  Mohammedans.  In  1099  the  Crusaders  took  it  by  storm  and 
established  a  Christian  monarchy  which  remained  till  1187  A.  D.,  when  the 
brilliant  Moslem  General  Saladin  made  it  a  province  of  his  Egyptian 
Sultancy.  In  1517  the  Turks  incorporated  it  into  the  Ottoman  Empire,  where 


100 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


it  remained  in  oppression  and  hardship  until  the  11th  day  of  December,  1917, 
when  the  Christian  General  Allenby  entered  it  with  bowed  head  and  reverent 
and  humble  spirit.  What  the  future  holds  no  prophet  can  foretell.  We  be¬ 
lieve  that  a  Christian  nation  will  govern  righteously  and  God’s  plans  for 
Jerusalem  will  have  a  square  chance  to  ripen  under  England’s  mandate. 

The  Jerusalem  of  today  is  130  feet  above  that  of  King  David’s  day  and 
a  hundred  above  that  of  “David’s  Greater  Son,”  Jesus.  This  is  disappointing 
to  those  literalists  who  would  know  the  exact  spot  where  any  sacred  evens 
occurred  and  even  the  identical  paths  His  holy  feet  sanctified.  In  addition 
religious  superstition  has  multiplied  locations  of  every  event  however  trivial 
that  the  prolific  imagination  of  the  Oriental  could  invent.  You  have  to  sift 
and  sift  and  sift.  You  will  be  able  to  know  that  the  Pools,  the  Tombs,  the 
Hills,  including  Olivet,  portions  of  the  old  Temple  walls,  possibly  Gethe- 
semane  and  Gordon’s  Calvary  at  least  are  authentic.  Others  may  be  so. 
But  what  does  it  matter?  It  is  Jerusalem,  City  of  David  and  of  Jesus. 

Two  hundred  yards  inside  the  Jaffa  Gate  is  the  Citadel,  or  Tower  of 
David.  It  is  the  most  solidly  built  structure  in  the  city.  It  dates  back  in 
its  foundations  to  David’s  day  and  tradition  says  that  some  of  its  rooms 
were  then  existing  and  one  is  pointed  out  where  he  composed  many  of  his 
Psalms.  Another  is  designated  as  his  reception  room.  It  is  a  fine  specimen 
of  Jewish  wall  masonry.  The  Citadel  borders  the  Armenian  Quarter.  At 
its  base  is  a  large  open  space  where  produce  of  all  sorts  from  the  country 
about  is  sold,  melons  and  cucumbers  and  fruit  as  well  as  staple  articles  of 
traffic.  In  this  Armenian  Quarter  are  few  places  of  special  interest.  There 
is  the  Church  of  St.  James,  where  he  is  said  to  have  been  beheaded  when 
Herod  stretched  forth  his  hands  to  vex  certain  of  the  church,  killing  James 
with  the  sword.  It  is  within  the  immense  Armenian  convent,  very  rich  and 
beautifully  decorated  and  noted  for  its  exquisite  tortoise  shell  ornamenta¬ 
tion.  Before  this  convent  is  a  large  yard  and  some  fine  pine  trees.  The 
aged  gate  keeper  was  slow  in  hearing  our  ringing  of  the  little  bell.  The 
old  priest  was  kind  and  courteous  in  showing  us  over  the  convent.  It  wiJl 
contain  3000  people.  Just  outside  the  Zion  gate,  which  is  nigh  this  convent, 
is  most  of  Mount  Zion,  the  ancient  City  of  David,  the  walls  having  been 
changed  within  modern  times.  There  is  the  palace  of  Caiaphus,  containing 
the.  traditional  prison  of  Christ,  the  place  of  His  trial,  and  Peter’s  denial. 
A  pillar  is  shown  you  as  the  one  upon  which  sat  the  cock  who  crowed  to; 


101 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


Peter’s  discomfort.  There  was  a  court,  open  but  overhung  with  a  large 
grape  vine.  One  of  our  party  innocently  suggested  that  it  was  more  natural 
that  the  rooster  was  sitting  in  the  vine.  The  one  is  as  reasonable  as  the 
other.  Here  you  are  shown  the  stone  the  angels  rolled  away  from  Christ’s 
sepulcher,  as  they  say.  Not  far  south  of  this  is  a  mosque  called  Neby  David, 
or  the  Tomb  of  David.  Various  Scripture  references  seem  to  favor  this 
location.  The  Tomb  was  in  a  hall  or  chapel  and  was  a  large  sarcophagus 
some  ten  feet  long  and  six  feet  high.  It  was  covered  over  with  soft  tapestry 
with  gold  embroidery  in  profusion.  Over  it  hung  a  canopy  of  a  combination 
of  loud  colors.  A  door  leads  to  the  real  tomb  below.  Two  candles  burn 
continuously  before  this  door.  Tradition  says  that  in  1145  A.  D.  two  work¬ 
men  accidentally  broke  through  the  old  wall  into  a  cavern  containing  the 
tombs  of  David,  Solomon  and  other  kings  of  Judah.  A  stormy  gust  of  wind 
blew  from  within  and  smote  them  to  the  floor,  where  they  remained  in  great 
fear  till  evening  when  a  voice  commanded  them  to  leave  the  place  which 
it  is  presumed  they  failed  not  to  do  without  ceremony.  They  had  seen 
much  gold  covered  furniture  and  chests  of  valuables.  Reporting  the  find 
to  the  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem  it  was  identified  by  him  as  the  sepulchers 
of  the  Kings  of  Judah,  and  sealed  up.  One  wonders  what  he  did  with  the 
chests  and  the  gold.  One  Benjamin  of  Tudela  recites  this  legend.  In  the 
same  building  is  a  chapel  30  by  50  feet,  the  reputed  “upper  chamber”  where 
Christ  ate  the  Last  Supper  with  His  disciples  and  where  descended  later 
the  Holy  Ghost.  It  presents  the  strange  sight  of  a  Christian  church  in  a 
Moslem  mosque.  In  fact,  the  chapel  is  in  two  divisions  separated  by  a 
screen.  In  one  division  prays  the  Christian,  in  another  mumbles  the  Moham¬ 
medan. 

Re-entering  the  Zion  Gate  and  passing  northward  up  Zion  street  we 
come  to  Mt.  Bezetha  in  the  northwest  corner  of  the  city.  This  is  called 
the  Christian  Quarter.  Here  is  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher.  It  is 
an  immense  building,  230  feet  from  east  to  west  and  200  from  north  to 
south.  As  Stoddard  says,  it  is  “a  sacred  exposition  ground.”  In  fact  it  is 
a  museum  of  religious  freaks  and  fancies.  It  was  erected  by  the  Empress 
Helena  in  335  A.  D.  on  the  site  she  decided  was  Calvary  and  the  Tomb  of 
Christ.  Another  more  tenable  theory  will  be  advanced  later.  More  reputed 
events  have  transpired  on  this  small  spot  than  any  one  generation  could 
imagine.  It  has  taken  the  combined  credulity  of  sixteen  centuries  to  as¬ 
semble  this  mosaic  of  religious  curios.  Everything  of  moment  from  the 


102 


The  Ceremony  of  the  Holy 

“A  mass  of  waving  lights  fill  the  place  and 
catch  up  the  frenzy.” 


Fire. 

a  larger  multitude  outside 


103 


>'•  *-  *■**•■%*■ 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


birth  of  Adam  to  the  death  of  Sir  Philip  d’Aubigny,  one  of  the  signers  of 
the  Magna  Charta,  is  shown  you.  His  grave  is  here.  But  a  few  of  the 
many  inventions  can  be  mentioned.  We  first  enter  a  large  court  and  pass 
into  the  church  past  Mohammedan  guards.  Near  the  door  is  the  Stone  of 
Unction  where  Christ’s  body  was  laid  for  the  anointing  after  removal  from 
the  Cross.  A  few  feet  away  is  Golgotha.  By  strange  coincidence  this  site 
is  the  reputed  grave  of  Adam,  supposedly  that  the  blood  of  the  atonement 
might  conveniently  fall  on  the  dust  of  the  first  offender.  A  riven  rock 
nearby  is  shown  you  as  having  occurred  at  the  time  of  the  Crucifixion  and 
you  are  allowed  to  thrust  your  arm  into  it.  Nearby  is  a  chapel  containing 
three  holes  in  the  rock,  two  feet  apart,  and  are  the  locations  of  the  three 
crosses.  This  was  found  by  St.  Helena  herself.  Her  way  of  distinguishing 
the  true  cross  from  the  two  others  discovered  is  as  original  as  it  is  interest¬ 
ing.  They  were  taken  singly  into  a  room  of  a  woman  who  was  very  ill. 
When  that  of  the  repentent  thief  was  presented  her  suffering  increased 
moderately.  When  that  of  the  impenitent  thief  was  brought  in  she  went 
into  violent  paroxysms  of  pain.  When  the  true  cross  entered  she  was  im¬ 
mediately  healed  and  left  her  bed  praising  God.  Enough  pieces  of  this 
cross  have  been  sold  to  build  a  modern  city  and  enough  nails,  if  recast,  to 
build  the  Brooklyn  Bridge.  Strange  to  say,  however,  we  had  no  opportunity 
to  purchase.  Either  the  stock  was  exhausted,  the  factory  was  shut  down, 
or  the  vendors  were  dead  and  their  successors  not  appointed  when  we  were 
there  on  two  visits.  In  a  large  antechamber  connected  with  the  main 
Orthodox  Church  Chapel  there  is  a  most  interesting  stone  or  pillar.  It  is 
rcund  and  stands  four  feet  above  the  floor.  It  is  the  identical  spot  where 
God  grabbed  up  the  handful  of  dirt  out  of  which  He  made  Adam.  It  is 
stated  that  this  spot  is  the  exact  center  of  the  earth.  I  could  not  help  but 
believe  it  for  my  Maury’s  geography  reliably  taught  me  that  the  same  claim 
might  truthfully  be  made  from  any  spot  on  this  earthly  ball  and  that  the 
horizon  was  always  the  same  distance  away.  We  have  found  certain  towns 
and  cities  in  our  wanderings  that  laid  serious  claims  to  the  same  distinction. 
Really  we  know  a  few  individuals  who  believe  their  home  town  is  that 
and  themselves  the  axes  on  which  the  world  revolves.  Blame  not  the 
Jerusalemites.  Near  by  the  Adam  factory  is  the  tomb  of  Melchizedek.  One 
wonders  what  became  of  poor  Eve.  We  presume  that  she  was  excommuni¬ 
cated  and  debarred  from  burial  in  this  sacred  precinct  because  it  was  she 
who  introduced  sin  into  the  world.  Some  day  perhaps  her  grave  may  be 


105 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


found  hard  by  that  of  her  husband  and  a  commemorative  tablet  affixed.  Rome 
has  canonized  Joan  of  Arc  and  Savonarola,  whom  they  killed.  There  is  y^t 
hope  for  Mother  Eve.  In  the  center  of  the  Church  is  a  large  Rotunda,  the 
dome  of  which  is  65  feet  in  diameter  and  emits  a  flood  of  light  upon  the 
Holy  Sepulcher  which  stands  underneath  it.  This  Rotunda  and  large  Chapel 
belongs  equally  to  all  sects  while  each  participating  sect  has  a  separate 
Chapel  somewhere  in  the  building.  The  Sepulcher  is  located  within  a  small 
Chapel  cut  out  of  the  rock  26  feet  long,  18  feet  broad,  and  10  feet  high.  It 
is  encased  in  white  marble  so  that  no  part  of  the  original  rock  is  seen.  The 
Sepulcher  itself  is  a  small  enclosure  six  by  seven  feet  containing  the  Sar¬ 
cophagus,  or  Tomb  of  Christ.  Pilgrims  come  in  vast  numbers  from  great 
distances  and  reverently  bow  and  kiss  the  stones  of  the  marble  floor  and 
the  surface  of  the  Tomb.  At  Easter  time  vast  hordes  of  Russian  Pilgrims 
assemble  here  for  the  ceremony  of  the  Holy  Fire.  On  Easter  Eve  the  Fire 
Bishop  enters  this  small  Sepulcher  enclosure.  Fire  descends  from  heaven, 
it  is  claimed,  and  lights  the  candles  on  the  altar.  The  Bishop,  who  is  alone 
in  the  Sepulcher,  passes  out  the  fire  through  holes  in  the  walls.  A  bundle 
of  burning  candles  are  passed  to  the  priests  and  these  in  turn  for  bakshish 
pass  them  to  the  multitudes  of  pilgrims  that  jam  the  church,  each  having 
purchased  candles.  In  a  few  moments  a  mass  of  waving  lights  fills  the 
place  and  a  larger  multitude  without  the  building  catch  up  the  frenzy,  and 
soon  fifty  thousand  fanatics  shout  and  weep  and  sometimes  fight  fiercely  m 
their  zeal.  In  1834  the  Mohammedan  guards  killed  four  hundred  Christians, 
thinking  that  they  wished  to  attack  them  when  they  were  only  overcome 
with  religious  frenzy. 

Many  other  interesting  locations  might  be  discussed,  but  time  and  space 
forbid.  These  are  the  principal  ones.  In  a  later  chapter  we  shall  discuss 
another  and  more  probable  location  of  the  Crucifixion  and  the  Garden  Tomb. 
The  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher  is  neither  architectural  nor  proportionate. 
It  seems  but  a  growth  of  Chapels  as  occasion  demanded.  It  has  twice  been 
partly  destroyed,  its  latest  repairing  occurring  in  1868.  Inside  it  is 
gorgeously  decorated,  especially  in  the  main  Greek  chapel  near  the 
Sepulcher  and  candles  are  burning  all  about  the  large  altar  covered  with 
satin  and  velvet  trimmed  in  gold  lace  and  embroidery.  As  formerly  men¬ 
tioned,  we  attended  High  Mass  in  this  Church  and  were  impressed  with  it3 
music,  its  elaborate  ritual,  and  devout  celebration  by  a  large  number  of 
worshippers.  The  Armenian  Chapel  is  not  so  elaborate  or  gorgeous^  We 


106 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


attended  High  Mass  there  but  it  was  not  so  impressive.  Here  they  kissed 
the  Bible  instead  of  the  hand  of  the  priest.  One  mother  lifted  her  two- 
year-old  child  to  kiss  the  Book  and  receive  the  blessing.  The  tot  under¬ 
stood  how  to  do  it  if  not  its  meaning.  He  will  grow  up  a  devout  and  fanatical 
defender  of  the  faith. 

This  church  is  held  jointly  by  the  Greeks,  the  Romans,  the  Armenians, 
the  Copts,  the  Syrians,  and  the  Abysinians,  the  first  two  being  the  most 
largely  interested.  Each  sect  takes  its  turn  in  making  pilgrimages  and  each 
has  a  separate  Chapel  which  is  unmolested  by  the  others.  However,  there 
have  been  serious  disturbances  by  these  rival  sects.  In  the  following  chapter 
we  will  visit  the  site  of  Solomon’s  Temple  and  many  other  points  of  great 
interest. 


107 


CHAPTER  X. 


Jerusalem — The  Temple  Area. 


\ 


CHAPTER  X. 


Jerusalem — The  Temple  Area. 

The  most  authentic,  as  well  as  the  most  ancient  and  interesting  site  -n 
Jerusalem,  interesting  to  Jew,  Christian,  and  Moslem,  is  the  Temple  Area, 
Haram-esh-Sherif,  on  which  stands  the  Mosque  of  Omar.  The  whole  area 
comprises  thirty-six  acres,  one-sixth  of  the  whole  of  the  city.  In  the  center 
of  the  Temple  Area,  which  is  a  plaza  with  flag  tiling  floor,  is  the  Dome  of 
the  Rock,  miscalled  the  Mosque  of  Omar.  It  is  not  a  mosque  but  simply  a 
structure  housing  the  celebrated  Rock.  The  real  mosque  is  that  of  El-Aksa 
nearby.  This,  the  most  celebrated  rock  in  the  world,  is  the  center  of  Mount 
Moriah  and  Melchizedek  is  said  to  have  sacrificed  here  and  Abraham  came 
to  this  spot  for  the  offering  up  of  Isaac.  Under  the  Jebusites  it  was  owned 
by  Araunah,  or  Oman,  and  used  by  him  as  a  threshing  floor.  When  the 
plague  fell  upon  Israel,  destroying  70,000  men  from  Dan  to  Beer-sheba  be¬ 
cause  of  David’s  sin  in  numbering  Israel,  he  here  appeased  the  wrath  of 
the  destroying  angel,  purchased  it,  and  built  an  altar.  The  Ark  of  the 
Covenant  was  brought  here  from  Kirjath  Jearim  and  preparations  were  made 
for  erection  of  the  “magnifical”  Temple  of  Solomon.  In  this  Temple  the 
Rock  was  under  the  Holy  of  Holies  or  Sanctum  Sanctorum. 

The  Temple  was  the  lineal  successor  of  the  Tabernacle  of  the  Wilder¬ 
ness  during  that  period  of  Isreal’s  migratory  history.  The  nation  was  now 
assuming  a  stabilized  status  and  Jerusalem  was  the  Capitol  with  David  as 
its  renowned  King.  A  fixed  center  of  Divine  worship  was  a  necessity  whither 
the  tribes  might  go  up  and  maintain  a  religious  and  national  solidarity. 
David  therefore  began  to  prepare  such  an  house  in  keeping  with  the  ex¬ 
tensive  grandeur  of  his  kingdom  and  the  majesty  of  Jehovah  who  had  so 
richly  blessed  them.  Because  David  was  a  man  of  war  and  blood  God  did 
not  allow  him  to  build  the  edifice,  but  only  to  prepare  for  its  building  by 
his  son  and  successor,  Solomon.  Solomon  followed  his  father’s  plans  and 
after  seven  years  of  systematic  labor  and  abundant  energy  the  Temple  was 
completed.  It  was  modeled  after  its  forerunner,  the  Tabernacle,  its  di¬ 
mensions  being  twice  as  large.  The  timbers  were  furnished  from  the  forests 
of  Lebanon  by  Hiram,  King  of  Tyre,  now  a  confederate  and  the  father-in- 
law  of  Solomon.  They  were  conveyed  in  floats  to  Joppa  and  thence  overland 
more  than  thirty  miles  to  Jerusalem.  The  stones  were  cut  out  of  the 


111 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


quarries  beneath  the  city  and  were  shaped  and  sized  by  explicit  design  and 
under  daily  direction  of  Master  Masons,  and  every  stone  fitted  into  its  place 
in  the  building  with  such  exact  nicety  that  not  a  sound  of  saw,  hammer,  or 
other  tool  was  heard  as  it  rose  in  lordly  grandeur  above  the  surrounding 
city,  and  when  it  was  completed  it  seemed  more  the  work  of  the  Supreme 
Architect  of  the  Universe  than  of  mere  human  hands.  It  would  not  com¬ 
pare  in  size  with  many  of  our  mammoth  buildings  of  today  but  in  finish  and 
in  furnishings  it  was  exquisite  beyond  compare.  See  I  Kings  VI  and  VII. 
In  its  erection  were  used  3  Grand  Masters,  3,300  overseers  who  were  expert 
Master  Masons,  80,000  Fellow  Craftsmen,  and  70,000  common  laborers  called 
entered  apprentices.  The  structure  was  completed  in  the  month  Zif,  answer¬ 
ing  to  our  April  B.  C.  1008.  Then  the  Ark  was  brought  into  the  Holy  of 
Holies  and  God  rained  fire  from  heaven  on  the  sacrifice,  thereby  attesting 
His  approval  of  the  plans  and  their  completion.  Solomon,  amidst  great  re¬ 
joicing  of  assembled  multitudes,  offered  an  unparalleled  prayer  of  dedica¬ 
tion  while  the  people  shouted  Amen.  It  filled  a  great  place  in  Israel’s  his¬ 
tory  but  Jeroboam  alienated  the  Ten  Tribes  and  substituted  at  Bethel  the 
worship  of  false  Egyptian  gods,  and  240  years  after  Solomon’s  death  the 
Assyrians  carried  off  the  northern  tribes  into  captivity,  722  B.  C.,  and  134 
years  later,  or  B.  C.  588,  the  remaining  Two  Tribes  were  carried  by  Nebuched- 
nezzer  into  captivity  to  Babylon,  destroying  the  Temple  and  taking  its  vessels 
away.  Seventy  years  of  hardship  followed  and  then  Cyrus,  King  of  Persia, 
having  conquered  Babylon,  allowed  the  Jews  to  return  under  Zerubabel  and 
to  rebuild  the  temple,  42,360  Jews  with  funds  and  necessary  equipment  being 
furnished.  It  was  smaller  and  less  pretentious  than  that  of  Solomon.  It 
was  destroyed  by  Antiochus  Epiphenes  167  B.  C.,  this  apostate  building  a 
statue  of  Jupiter  in  the  Holy  of  Holies  and  sacrificing  a  sow  on  the  altar 
as  a  climax  of  his  wanton  blasphemy.  For  150  years,  or  until  B.  C.  17,  it 
was  not  restored.  In  that  year  Herod,  being  then  King  over  the  Jews, 
under  Rome,  and  being  anxious  to  conciliate  them,  lavished  his  wealth  on  a 
new  Temple  that  was  completed  A.  D.  29.  It  was  probably  far  more 
elaborately  and  expensively  built  than  that  of  Solomon,  but  its  decorations 
were  not  so  rich  or  delicate  in  finish.  The  Rabbis  had  a  saying  that,  “The 
world  is  like  an  eye.  The  ocean  surrounding  it  is  the  white  of  the  eye;  its 
black  is  the  world  itself,  the  pupil  is  Jerusalem.”  But  central  in  their  de¬ 
votion  stood  the  Temple  Mount.  Terrace  above  terrace  its  courts  arose, 
till  high  above  the  city  within  the  enclosure  of  marble  cloisters,  cedar  roofed 


112 


The  Mosque  of  Omar. 

“A  crown  of  crowns,  infinitely  sacred,  infinitely  beautiful.” 


113 


; 


: 

i 


: 

1 


; 

' 

1 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


and  richly  frescoed  with  gold,  it  glistened  in  the  sunlight  “like  a  mount  of 
snow  fretted  with  golden  pinnacles.”  But  A.  D.  70  the  armies  of  Titus,  as¬ 
sisted  by  internal  traitors  and  dissensions,  sacked  the  city  and  left  not  one 
stone  upon  another,  carrying  away  to  Rome  97,000  prisoners  and  causing  the 
death  of  more  than  a  million  inhabitants  by  war  and  pestilence.  Jesus 
came  and  flung  Himself  between  Jerusalem  and  death  as  its  only  hope.  But 
they  would  not.  The  destruction  He  so  graphically  foretold  was  fulfilled 
in  all  its  awful  severity.  Titus  gave  orders  that  the  Temple  should  be 
spared,  but  a  soldier  flung  a  faggot  into  it  and  the  Jews  immediately  burned 
it  to  prevent  its  fall  to  the  Romans.  From  then  till  133  A.  D.  not  a  building 
stood  within  the  city  that  had  been.  Jackals  and  foxes  burrowed  beneath 
the  massive  stones  of  the  Temple  and  howled  through  the  lonely  night, 
while  owls  chanted  their  weird  serenade  to  the  moon.  Sixty-three  years 
later  the  emperor  Hadrian  rebuilt  the  city,  calling  it  Aelia  Capitolina,  or  the 
Heavenly  Capitol.  No  Jews  were  allowed  to  enter  it,  under  penalty  of  death. 
He  built  a  temple  to  Jupiter  over  the  Rock  Moriah  and  placed  an  equestrian 
statue  of  himself  on  its  eastern  front.  In  535  A.  D.,  after  Rome  became 
Christian,  the  Emperor  Justinian  built  a  church  dedicated  to  the  Virgin 
Mary  on  the  site  of  this  temple.  In  637  A.  D.,  when  the  Mohammedans 
conquered  Palestine,  this  church  was  turned  into  a  mosque,  and  when  the 
Crusaders  wrested  it  from  their  power  it  was  made  again  into  a  church, 
and  finally  Saladin  and  his  Moslem  successors  changed  it  back  to  the  beauti¬ 
ful  Mosque  of  Omar,  which  now  adorns  the  crest  of  Mount  Moriah,  “a 
crown  of  crowns,  infinitely  sacred,  infinitely  beautiful.”  This  mosque  is 
situated  in  an  elevated  quadrangle  1,000  feet  one  way  and  1,600  another. 
The  building,  Kubbit  es  Sakhra,  is  an  octagon,  each  side  being  56  feet,  7 
inches.  The  outside  walls  are  of  bluish-green  tiles  down  to  the  window  sills, 
and  below  that  with  marble,  once  glistening  white,  now  colored  with  age 
and  dust.  Burned  into  the  tiling  are  quotations  from  the  Koran.  The 
central  dome  is  ninety  feet  high  and  forty  feet  in  diameter  and  covers  the 
Rock.  Hence  the  common  name  of  the  building,  The  Dome  of  the  Rock.  The 
interior  is  most  beautifully  finished  in  superb  mosaic  inlaid  work.  The 
windows  emit  a  composite  light  from  thousands  of  glass  fragments  that 
reminds  one  of  descriptions  of  some  oriental  palace  in  the  days  of  Haroun-el- 
Rashid.  A  circular  corridor  is  within,  and  close  to  the  Rock,  later  described, 
is  a  row  of  pillars  taken  from  other  buildings  and  some  dating  from 
Solomon’s  Temple,  it  is  claimed.  Another  smaller  row  encircles  the  famous 


115 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


Rock  itself.  This  sacred  stone  is  fifty-eight  feet  long  and  forty-four  feet 
wide  and  stands  five  to  six  feet  above  the  tiled  floor.  An  iron  paling  of 
fine  workmanship  surrounds  it.  In  addition  to  other  traditions  is  that  Moslem 
one  that  Mahomet  ascended  to  heaven  from  this  Rock.  His  footprint  is 
shown  you.  The  angel  Gabriel,  seeing  the  Rock  clinging  to  his  feet  and 
knowing  that  nothing  earthly  should  enter  heaven,  reached  forth  his  hand 
and  snatched  it  loose  from  his  feet,  how  much  skin  attaching  to  the  stone 
we  are  not  told,  but  we  constantly  expected  to  have  a  chance  to  purchase 
some  of  this  cuticle,  but  like  the  scales  from  Saul’s  eyes  and  the  nails  from 
the  cross,  the  supply  was  exhausted.  On  the  side  of  the  Rock  you  see  the 
prints  of  the  angel’s  fingers  where  he  seized  it  in  this  emergency.  When 
the  Shiek  showing  us  over  the  place  had  his  back  turned  the  writer,  having 
unusually  long  larms  and  narrow  frame,  edged  his  shoulder  in  between  the 
palings  and  actually  put  his  fingers  in  the  finger  prints  of  the  angel  Gabriel. 
He  later  stretched  out  in  the  tomb  of  a  king  and  secured  a  left  hind  foot 
of  a  rabbit  from  the  banks  of  the  Jordan.  Such  rare  privileges  come  to 
but  few.  Near  this  Rock  is  a  casket  containing  four  hairs  from  Mahomet’s 
beard.  These  hairs  will  be  stretched  across  the  Kedron  valley  on  the  dreadful 
Day  of  Judgment.  Mahomet  will  sit  on  the  wall  near  the  Golden  Gate  (a 
jutting  stone  high  up  on  the  wall  being  pointed  out  to  you  as  Mahomet’s 
seat  for  that  august  event),  while  Jesus  will  sit  on  the  Mount  of  Olivet, 
supposedly  on  a  minaret  we  ascended  to  view  the  city,  and  each  will  hold 
an  end  of  the  hair  of  the  prophet.  The  Kedron  underneath  will  then  be  a 
raging  torrent  of  flame.  Good  Moslems  will  come  first  and  will  be  able  to 
cross  without  difficulty.  Jews  come  next,  will  try  to  cross  and  failing  will 
call  upon  Moses  for  help.  He  will  answer  that  he  cannot  do  so  and  they 
will  be  swept  away.  Next  will  come  the  Christians  who  will  fail  to  cross 
and  failing  will  call  on  Christ  to  help  them.  He  will  answer  as  did  Moses. 
Then  unfaithful  Moslems  will  come  up  and  call  upon  Moses  and  upon  Christ, 
neither  of  whom  can  help.  They  will  then  call  upon  Mahomet,  who  will 
mercifully  turn  them  into  fleas  and  himself  into  a  wooly  ram.  He  will  com¬ 
mand  them  to  jump  into  his  wool,  and  will  run  with  them  on  the  hair  across 
the  fiery  torrent.  Note  that  he  runs  across  on  the  hair  he  is  holding.  This 
is  Mohammedan  theology.  The  only  commendable  point  about  it  is  that 
.they  all  have  to  cross  over  to  the  side  where  Christ  holds  His  end  of  the 
hair,  an  unconscious  concession.  You  are  shown  also  in  the  mosque  a  small 
square  of  green  marble  having  nineteen  holes,  fifteen  empty  and  four  with 


116 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


nails  in  them.  Originally  Mahomet  drove  a  nail  in  each  hole  and  one  drops 
out  each  hundred  years  and  when  the  last  one  is  out  will  come  the  end  of 
the  world  and  the  above  judgment  episode.  The  devil  slipped  in  and  pulled 
out  the  fifteen  missing  nails  and  was  only  prevented  from  getting  all  of 
them  and  thus  precipitating  long  ago  that  awful  event  by  the  timely  ap¬ 
pearance  of  Gabriel.  Blessings  on  Gabriel.  He  always  comes  up  just  at 
the  right  time.  This  mosque  is  second  only  in  importance  in  the  Moslem 
world  to  that  of  Mecca  because,  as  they  claim,  of  its  association  with  Moses 
and  Jesus.  This  is  the  first  intimation  we  have  received  that  Moses  was 
ever  here.  We  had  always  thought  that  he  died,  or  was  spirited  away  by 
angels  from  the  Moabite  mountains,  and  was  not  allowed  to  enter  the  Holy 
Land  of  Promise.  An  underground  channel  is  reputed  to  connect  Mecca 
with  this  mosque  and  as  proof  of  it  a  certain  beggar  dropped  a  cocoanut 
bowl  in  which  he  collected  bakshish  down  the  sacred  well  at  Mecca.  It  was 
found  at  Job’s  well  near  the  walls  of  Jerusalem  and  carried  to  the  mosque 
and  hung  up.  The  beggar  later  saw  and  identified  it.  Q.  E.  D. 

Near  by  the  Dome  of  the  Rock  is  the  real  Mosque  El-Aksa.  It  was 
formerly  a  church  and  is  a  beautiful  building.  On  the  window  bars  hang 
old  shredded  rags,  each  a  token  of  some  vow  fulfilled.  In  it  are  two  pillars 
about  ten  inches  apart.  Whoever  can  squeeze  through  will  enter  Paradise 
and  also  prove  his  legitimate  birth.  Many  have  tried  to  make  the  squeeze 
and  the  stone  is  worn  away,  but  few  have  succeeded,  for  which  reason  the 
reader  may  infer.  One  individual  killed  himself  in  the  effort  and  it  is  now 
prohibited  by  law  and  enclosed  with  iron  bars.  We  found  a  similar  instance 
in  the  Mosque  cf  Amer  in  Cairo.  In  this  Mosque  El-Atsa  is  the  Well  of  the 
Leaf.  Mahomet  promised  that  one  of  his  faithful  followers  should  enter 
heaven  before  death.  A  certain  Sheik  dropped  his  bucket  into  this  well 
or  cistern.  Descending  after  it  a  door  opened  for  him  leading  out  into  a 
most  beautiful  garden.  He  wandered  about  for  a  while  and  plucking  a  leaf 
returned.  The  leaf  never  withered  and  the  door  has  never  been  found.  But 
Moslems  regard  this  well  as  one  of  the  gates  of  Paradise. 

The  Stables  of  Solomon  are  under  the  southeast  corner,  of  the  temple 
.area  and  are  said  to  have  housed  a  thousand  of  his  horses.  The  chiseled 
holes  in  the  corners  of  the  square  upholding  columns  were  for  tying  the 
halters.  On  the  north  side  of  the  city  are  the  quarries  whence  came  the 
rock  for  the  building  of  the  temple  and  for  many  successive  buildings.  It  is 


117 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


an  immense  cave  reaching  far  back  under  the  city.  It  is  not  at  all  safe  for 
one  to  visit  here  wtihout  a  competent  guide.  Enough  stone  has  been  re¬ 
moved  to  build  a  modern  American  city.  As  has  been  stated,  Jerusalem 
is  on  a  limestone  hill.  Back  within  this  quarry  we  found  a  square  cavern 
with  rude  stations  of  stone  on  three  sides,  east,  west,  and  south,  but  none 
on  the  north.  We  also  saw  where  a  large  keystone  had  been  cut  from  the 
parent  rock.  There  is  the  outline  as  plain  as  day.  It  is  supposed  to  have 
been,  and  we  believe  rightly  so,  the  keystone  of  the  Temple  of  Solomon, 
symbolic  of  that  Rejected  Stone  that  holds  up  the  Temple  of  Christian  fabric, 
keeps  the  dome  of  Nature  in  its  place,  “and  guards  His  children  well.,, 

On  the  east  side  of  the  mosque  is  the  Dome  of  the  Chain,  or  David's 
Judgment  Seat.  It  is  a  small  pavilion  with  tessellated  floor  and  fine  small 
columns.  The  mosque  is  said  to  have  been  modeled  after  its  architecture. 
From  the  middle  of  its  dome  once  suspended  a  chain  hung  from  heaven. 
When  one  accused  of  crime  grasped  it,  if  it  held  intact,  he  was  innocent. 
If  a  link  broke,  he  was  lying  and  therefore  guilty.  The  following  incident 
is  related  of  the  last  time  it  was  used.  A  Mohammedan  wished  to  make 
his  pilgrimage  to  Mecca  and  entrusted  his  bag  of  valuables  to  a  certain  Jew 
to  keep  till  his  return.  But  the  Jew  declared  that  he  had  returned  it  to 
him.  They  were  brought  under  the  chain.  The  Jew  handed  a  small  package 
to  the  Moslem  and  asked  him  to  hold  it  a  moment  for  him  and  then,  solemnly 
declaring  that  he  had  given  him  back  his  gold,  grasped  the  chain.  It  did 
not  break.  He  reached  out  his  hand  and  received  back  the  package,  which 
was  the  original  one  in  question.  The  Jew  always  comes  out  on  top  and 
the  Moslem’s  knowledge  of  his  innate  shrewdness  is  one  of  his  chief  causes 
of  such  violent  opposition  to  his  coming  back  to  Palestine.  They  say  that 
he  will  soon  own  the  land  and  control  the  money. 

Underneath  the  Rock  in  Omar  is  a  cave  some  twenty  feet  in  diameter 
and  six  feet  high.  It  was  probably  used  to  collect  the  blood  of  animals  slain 
overhead  in  the  sacrifices,  as  there  is  a  hole  through  the  Rock  to  this  cham¬ 
ber.  The  Rock  is  claimed,  however,  by  the  Shiek  of  the  Mosque  to  be 
miraculously  suspended  from  heaven  and  this  cave  to  have  been  the  prayer 
chamber  of  Abraham,  David,  Solomon,  Elijah,  and  Mahomet,  the  latter 
being  too  tall  and  when  his  head  struck  the  rock  overhead  a  hole  was  mads. 
He  was  the  original  “bonehead.”  It  was  three  feet  across.  Being  similarly 
elongated,  the  writer  put  his  head  in  the  hole  made  by  this  famous  per¬ 
sonage.  Another  point  scored.  No  other  member  of  our  party  could  do 


118 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


that.  Near  by  underneath  are  vast  cisterns  made  by  Solomon  and  kept 

secret  by  him.  They  contained  enough  water  to  last  three  years  in  case 

of  siege,  another  evidence  of  his  wisdom. 

The  question  is  often  asked  as  to  what  became  of  the  Ark  of  the 

Covenant.  That  is  one  of  the  mysteries  of  the  ages.  All  conjecture  is  use¬ 

less.  It  disappeared  from  the  Temple  when  it  was  plundered  by  Nebuched- 
nezzar.  The  Jews  believe  that  it  was  concealed  in  some  secret  vault  under¬ 
neath  the  building  and  that  it  will  be  revealed  by  the  Messiah  when  He 
comes.  Many  Christians  also  believe  it  to  have  been  thus  hidden.  But  no 
such  hidden  vault  has  been  discovered,  though  apparently  every  recess 
underneath  the  city  and  the  Temple  has  been  explored.  There  was  no  Ark 
in  Zerubbabel’s  Temple.  Had  it  been  carried  to  Babylon  it  would  have  been 
known  during  the  seventy  years'  captivity.  And  the  wise  and  benevolent  King 
Cyrus  would  have  allowed  its  return  as  the  most  essential  element  of  success  in 
the  building  of  the  Temple  and  reclamation  of  Palestine.  If  it  was  not 
miraculously  preserved,  it  long  since  has  returned  to  dust.  If  it  was  so  pre¬ 
served,  no  human  quest  will  find  it  until  God’s  time  to  bring  it  forth  shall 
come. 


119 


mm 


The  Wailing  Place.. 


‘‘He  will  save, 
lie’ll  save  His 


He  will  save, 
Israel  speedily.” 


121 


CHAPTER  XI. 


The  Wailing  Place — The  City’s  Environs. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


The  Wailing  Place — The  City’s  Environs. 

“Lamenting  the  falling  condition  of  Jerusalem  and  praying  for  the  return 
of  its  former  glory.” 

One  other  famous  and  very  interesting  relic  within  the  walls  remains  to 
be  visited.  I  refer  to  the  Jewish  Wailing  Place.  It  is  the  outside  southwest 
wall  of  the  Temple  area.  Here  in  a  little  street  not  more  than  15  feet  wide 
can  be  found  any  afternoon  now,  but  more  especially  on  Fridays,  numbers 
of  devout  Jews  from  various  corners  of  the  earth.  Most  of  those  present 
on  the  two  occasions  of  our  visit  were  from  Algeria.  Excavators  have 
identified  this  section  as  a  part  of  the  original  Temple  wall.  It  is  sixty  feet 
to  the  top  of  the  present  wall  built  on  these  foundations.  Jews  never  enter 
the  present  Temple  area  as  it  is  blasphemed  by  the  occupation  of  the  unholy 
Moslem  and  his  so-called  Mosque.  Until  recently  he  could  visit  this  sacred 
wall  only  by  paying  a  special  tax.  However  under  British  rule  he  is  per¬ 
mitted  to  wail  here  to  his  heart’s  content  “without  money  and  without 
price.” 

The  following  is  a  translation  of  the  Wailing  Place  hymn  often  used  at 
sundown  Friday,  which  is  the  beginning  of  the  Jewish  Sabbath.  It  with  its 
ancient  melody  possibly  dates  back  to  the  days  of  Ezra.  This  makes  it  one 
of  the  oldest  musical  compositions  extant.  The  words  are  as  fololws.  They 
are  expressive  of  Jewish  yearnings  then  as  well  as  today.  The  translation 
is  by  Dr.  Frankl,  a  learned  Jew. 

“He  is  great,  He  is  good, 

He’ll  build  His  temple  speedily. 

In  great  haste,  in  great  haste, 

In  our  own  day  speedily. 

He  will  save,  He  will  save, 

He’ll  save  His  Israel  speedily. 

At  this  time  now,  O  Lord, 

In  our  own  day  speedily. 

Lord,  save — Lord,  save, 

Save  thine  Israel  speedily. 

Lord  bring  back,  Lord  bring  back, 

Bring  back  Thy  people  speedily; 

0  restore  to  their  land, 

To  their  Salem  speedily. 

Bring  back  to  Thee,  bring  back  to  Thee, 

To  their  Savior,  speedily.” 


125 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


There  were  fifty  in  this  party  we  observed.  Their  peculiar  dress 
with  its  many  colors,  the  long  bearded  patriarch  reading  his  book  while 
others  wailed  weirdly  in  response,  leaning  on  their  arms  against  the  wall, 
kissing  it  and  beating  it  and  weeping  and  wailing  and  praying,  their  bodies 
convulsing,  while  tears  coursed  down  their  faces,  could  not  fail  to  impress 
one  with  their  deep  sincerity.  Some  professional  wailers  represent  absent 
patrons  and  these  show  formal  insincerity  in  their  manner,  but  most  of 
these  are  sincere,  judging  from  appearances.  They  are  lamenting  the  fallen 
condition  of  Jerusalem  and  praying  for  the  return  of  its  former  glory  and 
the  coming  of  the  Messiah.  Would  that  they  might  believe  that  He  is  here 
building  the  New  Jerusalem  in  the  universal  hearts  of  men.  Nails  are 
driven  between  the  stones,  each  nail  a  prayer.  Also  written  prayers  are 
stuffed  into  crevices  between  the  stones,  prayers  of  absent  ones  unable  to 
come  for  physical  or  financial  reasons.  The  writer  saw  a  light  blue  paper 
protruding  and  innocently  (  ? )  insinuated  himself  into  the  crowd  and  back¬ 
ing  up  against  the  wall  fished  the  envelope  from  its  hiding  place.  He  wishes 
to  disclaim  any  irreverence.  He  wanted  this  valuable  souvenir  and  believed 
that  God  could  hear  the'  prayers  just  as  well  in  America  as  in  Jerusalem. 
We  give  here  the  translation  made  us  by  a  learned  Rabbi  from  the  original 
Yiddish.  The  name  only  is  omitted: 

“I, - ,  am  standing  near  the  west  wall  of  our  temple  in 

Jerusalem  to  pray  in  this  holy  place  for  my  sick  mother, - , 

daughter  of - ,  who  is  sick  in  bed  for  years.  May  the  Lord 

grant  her  a  perfect  healing  to  strengthen  and  preserve  her  alive  and  send 
her  a  speedy  healing  from  heaven.  Amen. 

“I  also  pray  for  my  friends  in - that  they  may  prosper 

in  all  their  undertakings  for  their  sustenance  and  support.  May  the  Lord 
never  let  us  be  in  failure  of  food  and  sustain  us  with  honor.  Amen. 

“Have  mercy,  0  Lord,  upon  Israel  and  upon  Jerusalem  and  rebuild  thy 
great  and  holy  House  that  thy  name  is  called  upon  it  speedily  in  our  days 
with  deliverance  and  prosperity,  blessing  and  salvation.  Amen.” 

Another  paragraph  mentions  several  friends  who  are  also  praying,  and 
one  begs  for  “peace  in  his  family”  and  two  others  “for  the  rebuilding  of 
the  Holy  House  in  our  days  speedily.” 

This  prayer  is  interesting  in  that  it  reveals  the  human  heart  of  the  Jew 
and  his  simple  faith  in  asking  for  personal  blessings  for  self  and  loved 


126 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


ones.  He  believes  in  faith  healing.  May  his  prayer  for  his  ill  mother  be 
answered.  May  his  friends  prosper.  We  must  not  allow  ourselves  to  forget 
that  the  Jew  is  a  human  being,  a  brother  in  the  flesh,  and  that  we  owe  him 
an  unshiftable  obligation  to  treat  him  as  such. 

As  Shylock’s  soliloquy  truly  puts  it,  “I  am  a  Jew.  Hath  not  a  Jew  eyes? 
Hath  not  a  Jew  hands,  organs,  dimensions,  senses,  affections,  passions — fed 
with  the  same  food,  hurt  with  the  same  weapons,  subject  to  the  same 
diseases,  healed  by  the  same  means,  warmed  and  cooled  by  the  same  winter 
and  summer,  as  a  Christian  is?  If  you  prick  us,  do  we  not  bleed?  If  you 
tickle  us,  do  we  not  laugh?  If  you  poison  us,  do  we  not  die?”  As  Mr. 
Nahum  Sokolow,  a  national  Zionist  leader,  said  in  a  great  thanksgiving 
service  for  the  deliverance  of  Palestine,  held  in  the  London  Opera  House, 
December  2,  1917,  “The  Jew  is  able  to  take  care  of  himself;  all  he  asks  is 
brotherhood.”  The  Anglo-Saxon  has  been  his  friend,  and  his  only  real 
friend.  Let  us  not  forget  that  he  gave  us  our  religion,  our  Bible,  our  Christ, 
the  Christ  we  love  and  the  Christ  wet  trust  he  will  some  day  adore.  In  a 
later  chapter  we  shall  probably  refer  again  to  the  Wailing  Place  and  the 
Zionist  aspirations  in  Palestine.  We  have  now  visited  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulcher,  the  Temple  Mosque  of  Omar,  and  lastly  the  Wailing  Place, 
the  three  shrines  of  the  Holy  City,  those  of  Christian,  Moslem  and  Jew. 

Near  St.  Steven’s  gate,  within  the  walls  is  the  Church  of  St.  Anne,  built 
to  commemorate  the  residence  of  her,  the  mother  of  the  Virgin,  and  the 
birthplace  of  Mary,  and  the  burial  place  of  her  father,  Joachim.  Here,  deep 
under  the  foundations,  is  a  pool  said  to  be  the  pool  of  Bethesda  having  five 
porches  where  the  impotent  man  was  healed  by  Christ  and  in  whose  porches 
or  arcades  “lay  a  great  multitude  of  impotent  folk,  of  blind,  halt,  withered, 
waiting  for  the  moving  of  the  waters.”  It  was  believed  that  “an  angel  went 
down  at  a  certain  season  and  troubled  the  water”  and  the  first  to  step  into 
it  was  immediately  healed.  However,  the  Fountain  of  the  Virgin  at  the 
southeast  corner  of  the  city  wall,  according  to  Dr.  Robinson  and  other 
eminent  authorities,  presents  the  most  plausable  view.  Here  he  observed 
the  moving  of  the  waters  and  this  one  element  of  the  account  of  the  miracle 
is  vital.  At  one  measurement  it  rose  five  inches  and  at  another  twelve.  The 
physical  explanation  offered  is  that  it  is  connected  with  its  source  to  the 
north  of  the  city  by  an  underground  siphon.  The  water  enters  and  fills  up 
a  reservoir  somewhere  underground  and  when  it  fills  the  supply  empties 


127 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


at  once  and  some  time  must  elapse  until  it  discharges  again.  This  may, 
and  probably  does,  explain  the  troubling  of  the  water,  but  the  healing  of 
this  impotent  individual  was  a  divine  miracle.  However,  the  explanation  of 
the  angel  troubling  the  water  is  omitted  in  the  best  manuscripts. 

We  shall  never  forget  a  donkey  ride  around  the  walls.  The  Palestine 
donkey  is  a  remarkable  little  creature.  Blessings  on  him.  If  the  rest  of 
us  did  as  much  in  proportion  to  size  and  opportunity  as  the  brave  little 
donkey,  our  fortunes  would  be  greatly  improved  and  the  world  much  bettered. 
He  has  never  received  the  recognition  and  praise  he  so  richly  merits.  Living 
on  the  scantiest  fare,  enduring  overloading,  punishment,  and  excessive  hard¬ 
ships,  he  picks  his  nimble  way  along  with  ever  faithful  and  unresisting 
tread.  Often  his  burden  covers  his  little  form,  only  his  head  and  feet  in 
evidence.  On  the  top  of  this  load  sits  complacently  his  lord  and  master. 
Mr.  G.  K.  Chesterton,  in  his  characteristic  style,  delivers  himself  of  a 
diatribe  against  this  other  little  donkey  who  is  too  far  away  to  bray  back 
at  him.  He  calls  him  an  “anarchist,”  demolishing  fences,  kicking  his  friends, 
and  making  himself  a  general  nuisance.  I  do  not  believe  it.  All  the  donkeys 
we  met,  that  is  the  four-footed  ones,  were  sociable,  clever,  dependable 
creatures.  One  lady  at  the  dining  table  at  Damascus  remarked  that  she 
wished  that  she  might  take  a  little  donkey  home  with  her.  A  companion 
laconically  asked,  “What’s  the  use?”  The  implication  was  as  rude  and  un¬ 
gallant  as  it  was  laconic.  However,  the  laugh  was  general  and  hearty. 
Each  of  our  donkeys  on  this  ride  possessed  some  distinguished  name;  the 
same  with  our  camels  at  the  pyramids  later.  Mine  was  Moses,  and  his 
patience,  meekness,  and  plodding  persistence  did  not  belie  the  qualities  of 
the  great  Leader.  Each  separate  donky  had  a  driver  who  punched  him  along 
at  a  jog  trot  often  uncomfortable  to  the  rider,  but  words  of  remonstrance 
seemed  useless.  The  saddles  are  large  fat  pads  that  cover  the  back  of  the 
donkey  and  the  rider  sits  back  over  the  hips.  Leaving  the  Jaffa  Gate  and 
going  southward  down  the  Valley  of  Hinnom  and  on  the  Bethlehem  road 
we  come  first  to  the  Hill  of  Evil  Counsel  to  our  southern  right.  Here  Judas 
agreed  to  betray  his  Master,  and  just  to  the  north  is  the  Field  of  Blood,  where 
the  traitor  ended  his  sad  career.  A  little  further  southeast  where  Hinnom 
and  Kedron  meet  is  Job’s  well,  or  En-Rogel.  Here  Adonijah  celebrated  his 
coronation  as  king,  and  also  Jonathan  and  Ahimaaz  hid  here  receiving  in¬ 
telligence  of  Absalom’s  rebellious  movements  against  King  David  and  re¬ 
porting  to  him.  A  lad  detected  them  and  informed  Absalom  and  this  in- 


128 


Gordon’s  Calvary. 


“A  green  hill 


far  away  without 


a  city  wall.” 


129 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


telligence  squad  hid  themselves  in  a  well  in  Bahurim.  This  Job’s  well  is 
125  feet  deep  and  overflows  after  a  rain.  Going  up  the  Tyropean,  or  Kedron 
Valley,  we  pass  to  the  left  the  dirty  village  of  Silwan,  Siloam,  and  its 
Pool  of  Siloam.  A  double  flight  of  steps  leads  down  to  the  water.  Women 
are  washing  garments  in  it  and  wading  about,  notwithstanding  that  its  sup¬ 
plies  are  used  constantly  for  drinking.  Others  are  bearing  away  filled 
waterpots,  all  the  company  conversing  excitedly  about  the  simple  routine 
happenings  of  their  little  village.  It  has  been  fully  established  that  this 
Pool  of  Siloam  is  connected  with  the  Fountain  of  the  Virgin  described  above 
as  the  probable  place  of  healing.  The  water  rises  intermittently  here  also. 
Furthermore  the  celebrated  Siloam  inscription  fully  proves  this  fact.  It 
is  a  most  interesting  account.  This  inscription  was  found  on  the  walls  of 
the  connecting  tunnel  1,760  feet  long  by  a  boy  who  crawled  into  it  from  its 
lower  side  in  1880.  The  next  year  an  accurate  impression  was  made  and 
translated.  It  recites  that  the  tunnel  began  at  each  end  at  the  same  time; 
that  the  tunnelers  heard  each  other’s  picks  and  thus  guided  were  only  a 
few  feet  apart  when  they  broke  through.  Dr.  Robinson,  the  celebrated  and 
scholarly  explorer,  crawled  through  the  whole  length  of  the  tunnel.  From 
this  pool  came  the  water  for  the  feast  of  the  Tabernacles  brought  in  a  golden 
bowl.  Christ  referred  to  this  in  John  VII :37  when  He  stood  in  the  Temple 
and  cried,  “If  any  man  thirst  let  him  come  unto  me  and  drink.” 

We  are  now  opposite  the  Temple  Area.  On  the  hill  one-half  mile  out  is 
Olivet,  and  between  that  and  us  is  Gethsemane,  both  of  which  we  will  later 
discuss.  Near  us  now  are  three  square  rock  mausoleums,  the  Tombs  of 
Absalom,  St.  James,  and  Zachariah.  Near  these  tombs  is  the  Jewish  ceme¬ 
tery.  From  time  immemorial  Jews  have  been  interred  here.  Large  numbers 
from  all  over  the  world  gather  about  the  Holy  City  as  the  sunset  of  life  ap¬ 
proaches  so  that  they  may  be  gathered  to  their  fathers  and  buried  in  sacred 
soil.  Our  outgoing  vessel  contained  several  such  pilgrims.  One  fine  old 
patriarch  with  long  white  beard  was  so  tenderly  attentive  to  his  little  old 
wife  who  was  ill  and  fearful  lest  she  should  die  before  reaching  the  home¬ 
land.  They  stayed  together  and  the  old  gentleman  continually  read  aloud 
to  the  wife  the  Old  Testament  prophecies  and  promises  in  his  own  tongue. 
This  aged  couple  won  our  affectionate  esteem.  We  never  saw  them  again, 
but  we  saw  a  certain  Rabbi  again  at  Tiberius.  The  Jews  believe  that  the 
Judgment  will  occur  on  Olivet,  that  the  hill  will  be  split  in  twain  and  those 
nearest  the  spot  in  rising  will  have  a  decided  advantage.  Passing  around 


131 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


to  the  north  and  by  the  Damascus  gate  and  Calvary  we  come  to  the  Tomb 
of  the  Judges,  a  deep  catacomb  with  rock-hewn  vaults  sufficient  to  ac¬ 
commodate  many  bodies.  One-fourth  mile  northwest  is  a  similar  burial 
place  of  the  Kings  of  Israel.  We  crawled  into  these  vaults  and  found  them 
all  clean  and  empty.  We  stretched  our  frame  in  one  of  them.  In  these 
rock  shelves  there  was  not  room  for  a  coffin  and  hence  the  bodies  were 
wrapped  in  linen  after  anointing. 

Two  hundred  yards  north  and  east  of  the  Damascus  Gate  is  Gordon’s 
Calvary,  named  for  General  Charles  George  Gordon,  who  spent  several  years 
studying  the  question  here  from  every  angle.  However,  Otto  Thenius  >n 
1849  was  the  pioneer  in  this  theory  that  has  become  accepted  by  such  a 
large  number  in  latter  years.  It  is  elevated  sufficiently  above  the  city  to 
be  seen  afar  off.  It  is  beside  the  main  road  to  Nablus  and  to  Damascus 
and  it  is  called  “The  Skull  Hill”  from  its  peculiar  resemblance  to  a  skull. 
It  is  rounded  like  one  and  has  two  openings  in  the  face  resembling  eye  holes 
and  below,  the  outline  of  a  mouth.  It  fulfills  the  scriptural  account.  It 
surely  was  “without  the  gate”  cf  the  city,  which  cannot  be  said  as  to  the 
St.  Helena  site  in  the  Church  of  the  Sepulcher.  The  top  of  this  hill  is 
covered  by  Moslem  graves  and  a  depression  is  filled  with  bones.  It  is  the 
traditional  place  for  execution  of  criminals.  At  its  base  is  a  small  garden 
owned  and  kept  by  a  London  lady  cf  wealth.  Here  is  a  tomb  discovered 
by  excavation  and  is  doubtless  the  “new  made  tomb  wherein  never  man  was 
laid”  but  in  which  lay  the  Crucified  One,  and  from  which  He  came  forth 
on  that  glad  Easter  morn  long  ago  with  the  tread  of  a  conqueror  over  the 
dark  domain  of  death,  a  victory  in  which  you  and  I  may  glory.  Adjoining 
the  Calvary  site  is  the  Grotto  cf  Jeremiah,  considered  by  some  as  Christ’s 
tomb.  It  is  a  natural  limestone  cave  facing  south,  and  a  fourteenth  century 
tradition  affirms  that  the  prophet  wrote  his  lamentations  here  and  it  became 
his  burial  place.  It  is  full  of  rocky  tombs,  empty  cisterns,  etc. 

All  these  locations  in  the  environs  of  the  city  we  inspected  on  the 
memorable  donkey  ride.  It  now  remains  for  giving  account  of  a  most  happy 
hour  at  its  close.  Our  readers  will  recall  that  in  the  opening  chapter  we 
presented  our  genial  and  accommodating  dragoman,  George  Jallouk,  of 
Jerusalem.  This  afternoon  we  were  received  by  his  good  family  and  other 
relatives  in  his  refined  Christian  home.  Oriental  hospitality  refined  by 
Christianity  characterized  the  occasion.  How  beautifully  welcome  they 


132 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


made  us  feel.  We  sat  in  a  large  veranda  over  which  grew  a  lovely  grape 
vine  laden  with  tempting  bunches.  The  Jallouk  family  are  highly  esteemed 
in  Jerusalem  as  well  as  wherever  known.  They  are  all  Protestant  Christians 
and  descendants  of  the  Samaritans.  If  Christian  missions  had  done  nothing 
more  in  Palestine  than  the  blessings  conferred  on  this  honored  family  it 
was  time,  effort,  and  money  well  spent.  But  it  has  done  vastly  more.  There 
are  many  similar  Christian  homes  in  Palestine,  each  home  a  silent  and  most 
potent  missionary  for  the  Christ  born  in  Bethlehem  but  destined  to  set 
free  the  world.  However,  there  are  800,000  Syrians  in  the  Holy  Land  and 
Moslemism  has  its  benighting  grip  upon  them.  They  know  nothing  else. 
But  of  all  people  we  met  the  Syrians  present  the  finest  soil  for  the  sowing 
of  the  gospel  seed.  They  are  a  noble  and  stalwart  people  and  have  great 
inherent  qualities.  All  they  need  is  Christianity.  Even  all  the  trees  have 
perished  since  Islam  reigned  in  Palestine.  The  ancient  terraces  have  washed 
from  the  fruitful  mountain  side  and  the  people  themselves  have  partaken 
far  more  than  the  soil  of  the  blighting  effect  of  Mohammed,  the  touch  of 


133 


CHAPTER  XII. 


Gethsemane — Olivet — Jerusalem  to  Jericho. 


The  Big  Tree  in  Gethsemane. 

“His  sweat  like  drops  of  blood  ran  down, 
In  agony  He  prayed/’ 


137 


CHAPTER  XII. 


,  - 
&  .  1 1 

Gethsemane — Olivet — Jerusalem  to  Jericho. 

Leaving  the  city  by  the  Damascus  Gate  and  circling  eastward  we  soon 
pass  the  palatial  German  Hospice  built  supposedly  for  the  summer  home 
of  the  Kron  Prince,  but  built  as  an  advance  preparation  for  German  occupa¬ 
tion  of  Palestine  and  containing  wireless  apparatus  and  a  powerful  search¬ 
light.  It  was  interiorly  decorated  with  German  art  ideals  and  the  Christ 
was  represented  as  the  Kaiser,  and  St.  Paul  wore  a  big  waxed  German 
moustache.  It  stands  out  today  as  the  finest  building  in  or  about  the  city. 
It  is  the  irony  of  history  that  it  is  now  occupied  by  Sir  Samuel,  the  Governor- 
General,  and  above  it  flies  the  Union  Jack.  Soon  we  enter  the  road  leading 
east  from  Stephen’s  Gate  down  across  the  Kidron  vale  and  just  on  the 
farther  incline  we  come  to  the  Church  of  the  Franciscans  and  adjoining  it 
and  cared  for  by  its  Fathers,  the  beautiful  little  three-quarter  acre  Garden 
of  Gethsemane.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  modern  wall  and  iron  paling  fence. 
Concrete  walkways  cross  and  recross  it,  between  which  are  varieties  of 
foliage  beautiful  and  odorous.  But  the  chief  objects  of  interest  are  eight 
age-old  olive  trees,  all  similar  to  that  appearing  in  the  accompanying  picture, 
which  is  the  reputed  senior  of  them  all  and  the  identical  tree  under  which 
prayed  the  Master  for  the  passing  of  the  cup  while  the  cold  ground  below 
caught  the  Vermillion  drops  that  exuded  from  His  pores,  pressed  out  by 
such  mental  anguish  as  never  mere  mortal  felt.  The  olive  lives  to  a  ripe 
old  age  and  these  have  been  well  cared  for  within  the  memory  of  man,  but 
two  thousands  years  and  more,  for  they  were  supposed  to  be  big  trees  then, 
is  a  long  time.  Its  traditional  age  is  doubtful  and  so  is  the  exact  spot  here 
represented  as  the  garden.  It  is  rather  too  near  the  roadside  and  the  gate. 
The  account  says  that  He  went  still  farther  away,  perhaps  up  the  slopes  of 
Olivet,  and  fell  on  His  face  and  prayed.  However,  this  site  dates  back  to 
the  fourth  century.  At  any  rate  Gethsemane  is  hereabout  and  His  pleading 
accents  might  have  been  audible  from  the  location  of  this  tree.  Here  broke 
His  heart  as  the  pressure  of  the  lost  world  bore  down  upon  it.  Some  eminent 
medical  authorities  are  of  the  decided  opinion  that  here  the  pericardium 
was  ruptured  and  that  slow  leakage  began  which  finally  hastened  His  death 
in  advance  of  the  thieves,  the  final  moment  of  which  death  called  out  such 
an  agonizing  shriek  of  pain.  The  blood  had  already  coagulated.  It  is  re- 


139 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


called  that  theie  came  out  both  water  and  blood  from  His  pierced  side. 
Never  man  suffered  as  did  Jesus.  Mental  anguish  inexpressible  would  have 
killed  Him;  the  agonies  of  the  cross  likewise  would  have  ended  in  death, 
but  the  two  combined  lifts  His  vicarious  sacrifice  to  a  pinnacle  far  to  itself 
in  appealing  significance  and  pathos.  One’s  capacity  to  suffer  is  pro¬ 
portionate  to  his  degree  of  refinement.  In  Him  the  refinement  of  God  was 
blended  with  the  inherent  refinement  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  Mary.  Heme 
He  could  and  did  suffer  as  none  other  ever  did.  It  was  all  for  us. 

“Into  the  woods  my  Master  went, 

Clean  for-spent,  for-spent; 

Into  the  woods  my  Master  came, 

For-spent  with  love  and  shame. 

But  the  olives  they  were  not  blind  to  Him, 

The  little  gray  leaves  were  kind  to  Him, 

The  thorn  tree  had  a  mind  to  Him, 

When  info  the  woods  He  came. 

“Out  of  the  woods  my  Master  went, 

And  He  was  well  content; 

Cut  of  the  woods  my  Master  came, 

Content  with  death  and  shame. 

When  death  and  shame  would  woo  Him  last, 

From  under  the  trees  they  drew  Him  last, 

’Twas  on  a  tree  they  slew  Him  last 
When  out  of  the  woods  He  came.” 

(Sidney  Lanier.) 

Across  the  road  from  the  garden  are  shown  you  the  tombs  of  both  Joseph 
and  Mary.  Over  the  spot  is  a  church  built  by  Queen  Millicent  in  1161,  and 
here  she  is  buried.  A  flight  of  forty-seven  steps  descends  to  the  chapel. 

Mount  Olivet,  so  called  from  the  large  groves  of  olive  trees  that  once 
covered  it,  is  the  highest  point  round  about  Jerusalem,  being  2,680  feet 
above  the  sea  level  and  130  above  Mount  Zion,  the  most  elevated  spot  m 
the  city  proper.  It  is  due  east  and  300  feet  above  Gethsemane,  and  also 
due  east  of  the  Golden  Gate  and  therefore  of  the  Temple  Area.  Much  his- 
tory  has  transpired  here.  Ezekiel’s  vision  occurred  here  and  across  it  fled 
David  from  his  son,  Absalom.  Solomon  built  the  high  places  for  his  many 


140 


Mt.  Olivet — Gethsemane  in  Background. 

“While  they  beheld  He  was  taken  up, 
their  sight.” 


and  a  cloud  recieved  Him  out  of 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


wives  to  worship  their  gods  here,  and  here  the  Jews,  having  returned  from 
captivity,  celebrated  the  Feast  of  the  Tabernacles.  Jesus  often  visited  it. 
He  was  descending  its  slopes  when  the  multitude  met  Him  waving  palms 
and  strewing  their  garments  in  His  way  and  crying  “Hosanna.”  Here  He 
predicted  the  city’s  overthrow,  and  here  He  retired  after  His  last  Passover. 
The  Mohammedans  claim  its  apex  as  the  place  of  the  Ascension  and  have 
a  mosque  to  commemorate  that  event.  In  a  small  octagonal  pavilion  is  a 
stone  in  a  frame  with  a  small  indenture  in  it  about  the  size  of  a  baby  s 
foot.  It  purports  to  be  Christ’s  last  footprint  on  earth.  However,  further 
over  toward  Bethany  is  the  more  exact  place  of  His  ascension.  This  mosque 
has  a  magnificent  view  from  its  minaret  which  tourists  may  ascend.  The 
city  spreads  out  in  finest  panorama  and  Neby  Samwil,  Gibea,  Bethlehem 
and  the  Frank  Mountain,  and  to  our  rear  the  mountains  of  Moab,  from 
which  Moses  viewed  the  landscape  o’er  and  where  he  disappeared.  Next  to 
you  sleeping  in  its  mountain  cradle  is  the  Dead  Sea  and  far  north  from  ir 
extends  the  Ghor,  or  Jordan  valley,  a  row  of  green  trees  like  an  emerald 
ribbon  marking  its  winding  course.  To  the  north  of  this  point  is  the 
Russian  church  with  a  still  higher  tower  in  which  is  a  spiral  staircase  of 
214  steps.  The  view  from  a  platform  at  the  top  of  this  tower  is  still  better 
than  that  just  mentioned.  In  the  yard  of  this  church  is  a  large  stone  said 
to  have  been  intended  for  Solomon’s  Temple  but  discarded  because  of  a 
flaw.  Nearby  in  a  small  chapel  is  a  cubical  stone  represented  to  be  that 
from  which  Christ  mounted  the  ass.  To  the  south  is  the  Church  of  the 
Pater  Noster,  or  where  Christ  gave  the  Lord’s  Prayer,  and  the  prayer  is 
seen  on  tablets  around  a  court  written  in  35  languages.  A  beautiful  marble 
tomb  of  the  French  princess  who  erected  the  church  is  shown  you. 

On  the  southeastern  slope  of  Olivet  is  Bethany,  a  straggling  town  of  a 
few  hundred  people,  chiefly  Mohammedans.  Once  it  was  the  home  of  three 
intimate  friends  of  the  Master  and  where  the  “prophet’s  chamber”  was  al¬ 
ways  ready  for  His  occupancy.  This  devoted  home  was  a  green  oasis  of 
refreshment  in  the  Sahara  of  recrimination  and  persecution.  Here  was  al¬ 
ways  quiet  and  love.  Lazarus  the  noble  friend,  Martha  the  cumbered 
servant  who  served  much  for  love’s  sake,  Mary  the  meditative  who  sat  at 
His  feet  feasting  on  the  joys  of  His  companionship  and  the  golden  truths 
He  announced — these  three  dwelt  in  Bethany,  the  Place  of  Dates.  One 
day  Lazarus  was  stricken  and  died.  Jesus  hastened  to  the  sorrowful  home 
and  with  the  fiat  of  a  God  called  back  the  escaped  soul  to  the  decaying 


143 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


corpse,  thereby  rendering  a  great  boon  to  the  sisters  but  imposing  a  tre¬ 
mendous  loss  upon  Lazarus,  Jesus  wept.  He  was  grieving  for  Lazarus’ 
sake.  Four  days  gone  had  he  entered  into  his  glorious  inheritance  and 
back  from  its  joys  to  this  old  sad  earth  he  was  calling  him  again.  Tradition 
says  that  he  was  thirty  years  old  when  he  died  and  thirty  more  he  lived 
after  being  resurrected.  The  ruins  of  their  residence  are  shown  you  and 
a  stone  cave  or  tomb  in  the  side  of  the  hill  which  might  have  been  the  tomb 
of  the  miracle.  It  was  near  the  home  and  fulfills  all  necessary  conditions. 

The  road  from  Jerusalem  to  Jericho  winds  past  Bethany  and  mounting 
our  Ford  cars  we  start  the  tortuous  descent.  Jerusalem  is  3,842  feet  above 
the  Dead  Sea.  The  distance  is  18  miles  as  the  crow  flies  or  about  25  as 
the  road  winds.  Think  of  it.  More  than  200  feet  descent  per  mile.  Never 
was  roadway  built  over  rougher  country  and  there  is  no  finer  engineering 
than  this.  It  was  built  for  the  special  benefit  of  the  Kaiser  to  pass  over 
in  1898,  one  lone  benefit  of  his  pompous  visit.  It  is  a  fine  grade  of  macadam 
and  apart  from  the  heat  and  the  great  number  of  Bedouin  camel  trains  ic 
was  a  very  fine  drive.  I  believe  that  it  is  possible  to  coast  from  Olivet  to 
Jericho  and  most  of  the  time  using  the  brakes.  Two  miles  out  we  passed 
by  the  Apostles’  Fountain,  so  named  because  they  often  drank  there,  called 
also  the  “Sunny  Fountin.”  Half  way  down  we  passed  the  Khan  of  the 
Good  Samaritan.  It  is  near  the  location  of  the  ancient  one  of  the  Parable, 
a  mass  of  ruins  on  a  hilltop  being  pointed  out.  But  this  one  is  like  the 
other  and  is  near  enough  to  be  identical  for  all  practical  purposes.  It  is 
a  walled  enclosure  100  feet  square  with  chambers  for  sleeping  and  for 
storage  ranging  around  an  open  court  where  slept  the  animals  in  safety 
after  the  big  gate  was  locked.  After  passing  down  this  road  we  can  ap¬ 
preciate  fully  the  conditions  of  the  parable.  A  thousand  jagged  gorges 
seam  this  mountain  region  and  a  thousand  good  hiding  places  for  robbers 
were  at  hand  everyv/here.  In  fact  we  met  them  in  ones,  twos,  and  larger 
numbers,  riding  good  Arabian  steeds,  walking  with  caravan  trains,  or 
watching  the  sheep  grazing  on  the  rough  hillsides.  Soldiers  paraded  up 
and  down  the  road  constantly  and  guaranteed  safety  from  their  treachery. 
We  had  frequent  trouble  in  meeting  the  camels  in  large  numbers  heavily 
laden  with  grain  from  the  plains  of  Moab.  They  would  not  know  how 
to  get  out  of  the  narrow  road  and  one  fine  fellow  fell  across  a  ditch  and 
could  not  rise  until  relieved  of  his  load.  This  is  Quarantana,  the  country 
of  the  wilderness  temptation.  North  and  south  is  seen  nought  but  a  series 


144 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


of  barren  limestone  mountains  glistening  in  the  torrid  sunlight  separated 
by  mighty  chasms  and  deep  precipices.  There  can  be  no  more  fitting  spot 
on  earth  for  a  Devil  to  dwell.  It  surely  is  God-forsaken.  It  is  a  sad  and 
seamy  solitude,  save  for  Marsaba.  This  monastery  stands  high  up  and  white 
against  the  mountainside  overhanging  the  deep  ravine  which  was  the  Brook 
Cherith  by  which  Elijah  dwelt  and  where  he  was  fed  by  the  ravens;  whether 
black  birds  or  black  Bedouins  is  immaterial.  They  were  God's  messengers 
to  a  needy  servant  who  could  find  no  spot  in  the  forsaken  wilds  where  God 
was  not.  We  were  all  thousands  of  miles  from  home  and  friends,  yet  the 
thoughtfulness  of  God  in  this  incident  comforted  our  hearts  with  the  as¬ 
surance  of  His  constant  care.  This  road  is  the  main  highway  from  all  the 
country  beyond  the  Jordan  and  was  such  in  the  time  of  Christ.  Just  above 
the  ford  of  the  river  are  the  pillars  of  a  stone  bridge  built  by  the  Romans. 
Today  it  is  but  a  weak  lattice-work  structure  resting  on  wooden  piles 
and  up  until  English  occupation  a  toll  bridge.  It  will  soon  be  supplanted 
by  a  modern  steel  structure  of  beauty  and  permanence.  Such  will  be  in 
keeping  with  this  modern  roadway  and  the  spirit  of  British  enterprise 
evidenced  in  all  her  dependencies.  As  we  descend  we  pass  a  rough  path¬ 
way  leading  off  to  the  right  to  the  Neby  Musa,  or  the  traditional  Moslem 
tomb  of  Moses.  Pilgrims  in  large  nmbers  make  this  point  every  Easter 
time  on  their  way  to  the  Jordan  bathing  place  mentioned  later.  The 
Scriptures  affirm  that  no  man  knows  Moses'  burial  place.  From  Mount 
Pisgah  some  fifteen  miles  east  beyond  the  Dead  Sea  he  was  permitted  to 
behold  in  lucid  and  perhaps  magnified  vision  all  the  Land  of  Promise  which 
denied  to  him  became  the  portion  of  the  vast  multitude  whose  wide  encamp¬ 
ment  lay  in  the  plain  below.  But  despite  this  clear  assertion  of  Scripture 
the  Mohammedans  know  the  place  and  have  allowed  him  to  cross  over 
Jordan  despite  the  divine  interdiction.  This  tomb  is  a  place  of  prayer  as 
the  Moslems  accept  Moses  as  a  great  and  true  prophet  and  revere  his 
memory  almost  as  much  as  Christians  or  Jews. 

Our  road  winds  through  a  gorge  and  comes  out  on  a  high  ridge  that 
offers  a  full  and  uninterrupted  view  of  the  Jordan  valley  for  some  miles  up 
and  the  Dead  Sea,  or  the  upper  part  of  it.  To  our  left  a  few  miles  north  is 
a  green  spot  speckled  with  white.  It  is  Jericho  whose  ancient  walls  stood 
directly  in  Israel’s  pathway  of  conquest.  However,  between  it  and  the 
Jordan  ford  lay  the  ancient  Gilgal,  modern  Tel  Jeljul.  Here  Israel  first 
pitched  camp  west  of  the  Jordan  and  set  up  twelve  stones  taken  from  its 


145 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


bed.  Here  the  manna  ceased  and  the  first  Passover  in  Canaan  was  celebrated 
as  well  as  the  rite  of  circumcision.  Here  the  camp  abode  for  some  time 
and  one  night  Joshua  on  a  reconnoitering  tour  beheld  “a  man  over  against 
him  with  a  drawn  sword  in  his  hand.”  It  was  God’s  angel.  Later  as¬ 
sembled  there  the  conventions  of  the  people  under  Samuel  and  Saul,  the 
latter  being  made  king  here,  and  here  the  whole  tribe  of  Judah  met  King 
David  on  his  return  from  exile  after  Absalom’s  untimely  death.  No  more 
beautiful  incident  in  Scripture  is  recorded  than  this  wholehearted  convoy 
of  David’s  tribesmen  peopling  the  plains  near  the  Jordan  ford  to  welcome 
home  their  beloved  king.  Gilgal  filled  a  large  place  in  those  days.  Today 
even  the  very  site  is  problematic  and  at  best  only  a  pile  of  debris  marks  its 
reputed  location. 

A  few  moments’  drive  from  Gilgal  brings  us  to  Jericho.  The  city  today 
is  a  row  of  plain  rock  huts  separated  by  walls  of  the  same  material.  It 
contains  about  two  thousand  people  and  a  more  degenerate  and  wretched 
lot  we  met  nowhere  than  here.  It  was  a  contrast  of  present  squalor  with  past 
magnificence.  There  was  a  main  street  with  stalls  for  stores  selling  melons, 
tropical  fruit,  and  simple  household  articles.  We  purchased  a  native  banana. 
It  was  small  but  sweet.  An  uninviting  hotel  stood  on  a  corner  of  the  lane 
and  a  Greek  church  dating  back  to  the  15th  century  marked  the  home  of 
Zaccheus,  it  is  claimed.  There  are  three  Jerichoes  in  history.  First  that 
destroyed  by  Joshua;  the  second,  that  of  Herod  and  Cleopatra;  third,  that 
miserable  village  of  today.  The  sites  are  also  different.  Joshua’s  Jerichj 
was  adjacent  to  the  Fountain  of  Elisha,  Ain-es-Sultan.  We  saw  results 
of  excavations  recently  conducted  by  Dr.  Ernest  Sellin.  We  stood  on  top 
of  a  mound  fifty  feet  high  and  looked  down  on  ancient  walls  thousands  of 
years  old.  He  found  numerous  ruined  houses,  an  ancient  citadel,  containing 
three  stories  and  17  rooms.  In  three  of  the  rooms  the  antique  stoves 
were  still  intact  and  broken  household  articles,  some  of  them  highly  deco¬ 
rated.  He  reclaimed  30  jugs,  disposition  of  their  contents  being  omitted  in 
the  account.  Some  of  them  were  beautifully  embellished.  Numerous  kitchen 
articles,  and  an  elegant  stone  statue  also  were  recovered.  It  confirms  the 
Scripture  account  of  Joshua  VI.  The  destruction  was  complete,  only  the 
vessels  of  gold,  silver,  brass,  nd  iron  were  reserved  for  the  treasury  of 
the  Lord.  Rahab  and  her  kindred  were  spared  according  to  the  pledge  of 
the  three  spies  whom  she  prudently  housed.  Nothing  is  more  majestic  than 
this  silent  circuit  of  the  doomed  city  six  days  running  and  the  seventh 


146 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


seven  times  around  ending  with  a  terrific  shout  of  faith  claiming  the  vic¬ 
tory  in  anticipation,  which  claim  was  amply  justified  in  the  results  attained. 
Later  Joshua  standing  perhaps  on  an  adjacent  hill  pronounced  his  curse 
upon  the  city,  pointing  to  its  charred  ruins  with  index  finger  of  imprecation 
and  exclaiming,  “Cursed  be  the  man  that  riseth  up  and  buildeth  this  city 
Jerfichq;  he  shall  lay  the  foundation  in  his  firstborn,  and  in  his  youngest 
son  shall  he  set  up  the  gates  of  it.”  Josh.  6:26.  Five  hundred  years  later, 
or  915  B.  C.,  “did  Hiel  the  Bethelite  build  Jericho.  He  laid  the  foundation 
thereof  in  Abiram,  his  firstborn,  and  set  up  the  gates  thereof  in  his  youngest 
son,  Segub,  according  to  the  word  of  the  Lord  which  he  spake  by  Joshua, 
the  son  of  Nun.”  I  Kings  16:34.  Yet  it  was  rebuilt  and  became  a  school 
of  the  prophets,  but  on  another  site.  Herod  yet  again  rebuilt  the  city, 
strengthening  and  adorning  it  after  it  was  redeemed  from  Cleopatra,  on 
whom  it  had  been  bestowed  by  the  infatuated  Anthony.  Here  Herod  re¬ 
sided  in  winter.  He  built  a  fortress,  lordly  palaces,  and  a  great  circus 
hippodrome  in  which  he  caused  later  the  nobles  of  the  land  to  be  im¬ 
prisoned  under  death  sentence,  which  sentence  his  own  awful  death  pre¬ 
vented  from  being  executed.  This  was  on  still  another  site.  Christ  visited 
Jericho  several  times  and  lodged  with  Zaccheus  and  healed  Bartimeus.  Here 
lived  many  of  the  priests  and  Levites  who  went  up  to  Jerusalem  in  their 
regular  courses  of  temple  service.  One  of  each  passed  the  wounded  brother 
in  merciless  indifference  to  his  appeals  but  thank  heaven,  “a  certain 
Samaritan  came  that  way,”  himself  and  his  humane  conduct  so  symbolic 
of  the  Great  Samaritan  in  His  healing  and  reclaiming  attitude  to  a  bruised 
and  wounded  world  without  regard  to  rank,  race,  religion,  or  color.  Jericho 
is  one-fourth  mile  below  sea  level,  the  deepest  of  any  city  on  earth.  It  has 
a  super-tropical  climate.  It  was  110  degrees  in  the  shade  when  we  were 
there,  so  hot  that  our  Fords  would  run  but  a  short  time  before  overheating. 
Right  glad  were  we  to  escape  and  reach  again  our  pleasant  rooms  at  the 
Grand  New  Hotel  at  Jerusalem.  Jericho  is  the  gift  of  Elisha’s  Fountain, 
so  named  because  of  its  water  being  cleansed  by  him  with  a  treatment  of 
salt.  It  bursts  out  from  the  hillside  in  a  stream  large  enough  to  turn  a 
small  mill.  A  large  concrete  reservoir  collects  the  water.  In  one  apartment 
natives  were  bathing  in  the  nude  and  in  brazen  indifference  to  our  presence. 
The  upper  apartment  was  clean  and  the  water  cool  and  refreshing.  Modern 
stone  aqueducts  convey  its  supplies  down  to  the  city  a  half  mile  away  and 
into  gardens  rich  in  palm  trees,  oranges,  lemons,  bananas,  figs,  grapes,  and 


147 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


vines  and  flowers.  This  garden  is  but  a  sample  of  what  the  Jordan  valley 
once  was  and  what  it  may  again  become  under  the  wizardry  of  modern  irriga¬ 
tion.  Everything  shall  live  whither  the  river  cometh.  The  greatest  need  of 
Palestine  is  water.  Then  it  shall  blossom  as  the  rose.  Some  day  ere  long  it 
shall  be  so.  It  is  the  program  of  England  and  of  Zionism  should  it  prevail. 


148 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


The  Jordan — The  Dead  Sea 


The  Jordan — Supposed  Site  cf  Christ’s  Baptism. 

“The  Jordan  valley  is  the  lowest  depression  on  earth  and  the  earth’s 
deepest  ditch.” 


151 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  Jordan — The  Dead  Sea. 


The  Jordan  River  is  the  most  celebrated  stream  in  the  wide  world.  This 
is  not  because  of  its  size,  for  it  is  less  than  200  miles  long,  including  its 
windings,  but  little  more  than  100  feet  wide  normally  near  its  mouth,  and 
from  six  to  ten  feet  deep.  It  surpasses  in  interest  the  Nile  itself,  which 
made  Egypt,  the  Hudson,  the  Mississippi,  the  Amazon  and  the  Danube.  Its 
interest  is  both  historic  and  symbolic.  It  marks  the  ending  of  Israel’s 
wanderings  as  a  horde  and  the  beginning  of  their  history  as  an  organized 
nation,  the  induction  of  the  Savior  of  men  into  His  priestly  office,  and  the 
inauguration  of  His  kingdom  on  earth.  It  is  sacred  to  Jew,  Moslem,  and 
Christian.  It  is  mentioned  180  times  in  the  Old  Testament  and  15  times 
in  the  New.  The  earliest  is  in  Gen.  13:10,  where  Lot  is  said  to  have  “lifted 
up  his  eyes  and  beheld  all  the  plain  of  the  Jordan  that  it  was  well  watered 
everywhere  even  as  the  garden  of  the  Lord,  like  the  land  of  Egypt”  from 
which  he  and  Abraham  had  just  come.  Hence  the  comparison.  The  valley 
at  that  time  must  have  been  exceedingly  fertile  and  productive,  containing 
several  flourishing  cities,  including  Sodom  and  Gomorrah,  where  now  is  the 
Dead  Sea.  It  was  later  crossed  by  the  Children  of  Israel  under  Joshua  to 
begin  the  conquest  of  the  land.  Many  others  crossed  it  here  and  there,  in¬ 
cluding  David  in  his  flight  from  Jerusalem  during  Absalom’s  rebellion  and 
his  return  after  his  sad  death.  Here  a  ferry-boat  was  used,  the  only  mention 
of  such  in  Scripture.  Naaman  dipped  in  its  waters  and  was  healed  of  his 
leprosy.  Elijah  had  previously  crossed  it,  its  waters  dividing  the  second 
time  miraculously.  These  are  but  a  few  of  the  many  Old  Testament 
references. 

In  the  New  Testament  the  chief  incidents  are  the  baptizing  of  the  multi¬ 
tudes  by  John,  including  that  of  Jesus. 

It  rises  in  the  Anti-Lebanon  mountains  at  the  base  of  Mt.  Hermon  1,700 
feet  above  sea  level  and  empties  into  the  Dead  Sea  100  miles  straight  due 
south  1,300  feet  below  sea  level,  falling  threfore  30  feet  per  mile.  One  is 
not  surprised  to  find  that  Lieutenant  Lynch  in  1848  discovered  27  rapids 
plus  several  minor  ones  and  that  one  of  his  boats  was  wrecked.  It  originates 
in  four  principal  springs  and  28  miles  away  enters  into  the  waters  of  Merom, 
now  Lake  Huleh,  a  beautiful  little  triangular  lake  at  sea  level.  Thence  12 


153 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


miles  later  it  enters  and  passes  through  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  682  feet  below 
sea  level,  its  waters  entering  turbid  and  leaving  it  as  clear  as  crystal.  Thence 
for  60  miles  direct  but  180  miles  in  reality  it  plunges  to  the  Dead  Sea,  its 
winding  course  overcoming  its  excessive  fall.  Opposite  Jericho  are  the 
Fords  of  the  Jordan,  and  tradition  identifies  this  as  the  place  of  Christ’s 
baptism.  Here  every  Easter  in  commemoration  of  that  event  great  con¬ 
gregations  of  Pilgrims,  mostly  from  Russia,  assemble  and  dip  in  its  muddy 
waters.  Old  and  young,  rich  and  poor,  plunge  promiscuously  into  its  curreni, 
which  here  flows  three  miles  per  hour.  It  must  indeed  present  a  most 
picturesque  sight;  hundreds  of  candidates  in  snow  white  garments — their 
future  burial  robes — all  kneeling  on  the  banks  while  a  patriarchal  priest 
in  a  boat  immerses  a  cross  three  times  with  much  ceremony.  Then  a  nude 
native  dives  from  the  boat  and  at  this  signal  the  multitude  move  quickly 
into  the  stream,  immerse  themselves,  and  retire  for  others  to  take  their 
places.  Sometimes  it  is  very  cold  and  the  ceremony  is  attended  with  suf¬ 
fering  and  after  effects.  Arroc,  a  vile  native  intoxicant,  is  sold  and  often 
fights  occur  and  occasionally  deaths. 

The  Jordan  Valley  is  the  lowest  depression  in  the  earth,  the  earth’s 
deepest  ditch.  The  whole  Ghor  from  Huleh  to  the  southern  end  of  the  Dead 
Sea  is  a  geological  split  supposedly  occurring  somewhere  near  the  time  of 
the  destruction  of  Sodom  and  Gomorrah.  It  has  the  greatest  fall  of  any 
stream  in  the  world,  that  is  from  its  source  to  its  entrance  to  the  Dead  Sea, 
3,000  feet  in  100  straight  miles,  or  30  feet  average  per  mile.  The  Sacra¬ 
mento  river  in  California  is  a  close  second.  This  great  fall  and  the  abundance 
and  dependability  of  the  current  with  a  superabundance  in  winter  and  early 
spring  at  the  “swellings  of  the  Jordan,”  which  could  be  impounded,  suggest 
great  possibilities  for  electric  and  irrigation  developments.  In  fact  the 
English  government  has  already  let  concessions  for  utilization  of  the  basins 
of  the  Jordan  and  tributaries  for  generation  of  400,000  horse  power,  re¬ 
liably  estimated — an  equivalent  of  3,500,000  tons  of  coal.  The  lessor  is  Pinhas 
Rutenberg,  a  well  known  hydraulic  engineer,  and  the  lease  runs  for  70  years. 
He  has  preempted  the  ground,  has  “pulled  off”  a  gigantic  financial  coup, 
both  feasible  and  possible.  In  fact  wealthy  Jews  everywhere  eagerly  seized 
the  offerings  of  stock  bearing  a  guarantee  by  the  government  of  8%.  But 
more  of  this  later.  The  Jordan  has  two  plains,  or  beds,  one  the  wide  valley, 
the  other  a  deeper  and  more  narrow  one  within.  The  river  overflows  into 
this  latter  bed  during  the  spring  freshet.  At  such  a  time  the  Israelites 


154 


A.  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


crossed  it.  Its  banks  are  covered  with  sycamore,  ilex,  willows,  reeds  and 
rushes,  a  dense  half  tropical  jungle.  It  was  once  the  home  of  dangerous 
lions,  leopards  and  other  wild  beasts,  but  there  are  none  now.  Wandering 
and  treacherous  gangs  of  Bedouins  people  the  whole  valley.  At  the  ford 
we  came  on  a  rude  thatched  hut,  double  story,  owned  by  a  Syrian  with  a 
Greek  wife.  A  boat  was  rented  for  a  row  on  the  stream;  coffee  made  over 
a  “fire  of  coals”  was  served,  with  roasted  fresh  water  clams  seasoned  with 
Dead  Sea  salt.  The  large  head  of  a  catfish  caught  on  the  “trot  line”  in 
the  stream  hung  on  a  nail  along  side  the  dried  hind  feet  of  a  Jordan  hare 
entrapped  in  the  rushes  on  the  bank.  We  saw  no  birds.  We  were  there  in 
August.  But  others  have  mentioned  many  varieties  of  birds  up  and  down 
the  valley.  There  are  the  dove,  raven,  owl,  stork,  heron,  wild  goose,  snipe, 
quail,  grouse,  hoopoo,  king  fisher,  bulbul,  thrush,  and  every  kind  of  bird  of 
prey.  It  has  been  said  that  nearly  every  variety  of  bird  in  Europe  or 
America  is  found  somewhere  on  the  banks  of  the  Jordan,  and  also,  owing 
to  the  various  elevations,  all  varieties  of  vegetation  from  that  of  the  moun¬ 
tains  of  Norway  to  the  torrid  belt  of  Africa. 

The  Jordan  has  three  distinctions.  First,  it  has  the  world’s  greatest  fall; 
second,  it  is  the  world’s  deepest  ditch,  both  discussed  above;  third,  its  bed 
has  changed  less  during  the  centuries  than  perhaps  any  other;  fourth,  it  dis¬ 
charges  its  waters  into  a  lake  without  outlet.  Evaporation  equals  the  intake, 
owing  to  the  extreme  heat  and  the  basin-like  shape  of  the  sea. 

This  Dead  Sea  remains  for  discussion.  In  Scripture  it  is  called  the  East 
Sea,  Sea  of  Sodom,  Sea  of  the  Desert,  and  Salt  Sea.  Josephus  and  the 
classical  writers  refer  to  it  as  the  Sea  of  Asphaltites,  because  of  the  ex¬ 
cessive  abundance  of  asphalt  in  its  region.  The  Arabs  call  it  Bahr-Lut, 
the  Sea  of  Lot.  In  April-May,  1848,  Lieutenant  Lynch  of  the  American  Ex¬ 
pedition  made  exhaustive  exploration  of  the  whole  valley  including  the  Dead 
Sea,  to  which  he  gave  very  careful  examination.  To  him  we  are  greatly  in¬ 
debted.  He  describes  the  water  as  a  greenish-blue,  often  rippled  and  some¬ 
times  powerfully  stirred  by  storms,  and  owing  to  its  density  the  waves  struck 
with  terrific  force  against  the  sides  of  the  boats.  It  is  nearly  one-fourth 
mineral,  five  per  cent  being  salt,  with  much  magnesia,  lime,  and  soda.  Once 
it  was  a  vast  salt  plain  stretching  from  the  Gulf  of  Akabah,  the  eastern 
arm  of  the  Red  Sea,  to  Mt.  Hermon.  Through  it  ran  the  Jordan  at  an 
elevation  above  the  present.  The  Sea  was  then  a  smaller  lake  about  the 


155 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


size  of  Galilee.  It  was  salt  and  surrounded  with  deposits  of  bitumin  (pitch) 
which  filled  basins  or  “slime  pits”  into  which  the  kings  of  Sodom  and 
Gomorrah  fell  in  the  war  with  Amraphel  king  of  Shinar  and  his  three  con¬ 
federates.  Gen.  14.  It  was  a  “well  watered”  plain  and  several  cities  with 
kings  flourished  there.  Lot  chose  it  for  his  portion,  selfishly  selecting  the 
best  and  leaving  his  uncle  Abraham,  his  foster  parent  and  benefactor,  to 
eke  out  his  livelihood  in  the  hills  of  the  south  and  west.  The  sea  is  9  miles 
east  and  west  and  40  north  and  south.  In  depth  it  varies  from  13  feet  to 
1,300,  the  greater  depth  being  the  location  of  the  supposed  ancient  lake  or 
sea.  Through  its  whole  length  there  is  a  gorge  corresponding  to  the  present 
Jordan  valley.  Geologic  breaks  to  the  north  and  to  the  south  of  the  sea 
indicate  some  mighty  convulsion.  It  is  generally  accepted  that  the  Scriptural 
account  of  the  destruction  of  the  “cities  of  the  plain”  is  correct.  The  moun¬ 
tains  all  around  it  are  volcanic  in  origin  and  especially  the  extinct  crater 
of  Usdum  on  the  southwestern  border  of  the  sea.  It  is  easy  to  surmise  that 
the  “fire  and  brimstone”  was  the  raining  of  volcanic  lava  igniting  the  pitch 
deposits  and  quickly  consuming  everything  inflammable.  It  was  none  the 
less  a  visitation  of  divine  retribution.  The  whole  valley  likewise  sank  down 
as  it  is  today.  Lot  only  escaped  through  angelic  intervention  owing  to  the 
pleadings  of  Abraham.  There  sleep  today  the  charred  remains  of  ancient 
cities  whose  unmentionable  degradation  becomes  the  synonym  for  excessive 
depravity  to  all  peoples.  Their  tombs  lead  down  to  hell  and  the  saline  waves 
sing  their  sad  and  lonely  dirge  above  them,  and  sometimes  when  the  lake 
is  lashed  by  the  storm  one  may  imagine  he  hears  the  shrieks  of  the  long 
lost  inhabitants;  inhabitants  who  dared  the  wrath  of  a  Holy  God  and  who 
mixed  the  bitter  ingredients  of  their  own  cup,  mixed  it  and  then  drank  it, 
even  to  its  awful  dregs.  What  a  monument  to  the  fact  that  Divine  Mercy 
would  spare,  but  Divine  Justice  will  avenge,  the  latter  as  essential  to  the 
Divine  economy  as  the  former.  Compare  the  description  in  Gen.  13:10  de 
scribing  it  as  it  was  prior  to  the  catastrophe,  and  that  of  Deut.  29:23  for 
its  after  appearance.  The  former,  “And  Lot  lifted  up  his  eyes  and  beheld 

all  the  plain  of  the  Jordan,  that  it  was  well  watered  everywhere . 

even  as  the  garden  of  the  Lord,  like  the  land  of  Egypt,  as  thou  comest  unro 
Zoar.”  The  latter,  “And  the  whole  land  thereof  is  brimstone,  and  salt,  and 
burning,  that  it  is  not  sown,  nor  beareth,  nor  any  grass  groweth  therein, 
like  the  overthrow  of  Sodom  and  Gomorrah,  Admah,  and  Zeboim,  which  the 
Lord  overthrew  in  His  anger  and  His  wrath.”  Here  are  mentioned  the 


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names  of  the  other  two  cities  destroyed.  “How  astounding/’  says  Rev. 
Geo.  Fisk  in  his  Memoirs  of  the  Holy  Land,  “will  be  the  blast  of  the  arch¬ 
angel’s  trumpet,  when  clanging  amidst  those  bleak  and  barren  rocks  and 

borne  like  a  spell  over  the  surface  of  those  stagnant  waters . and 

when  is  laid  bare  the  gloomy  secret  at  which  we  surmise  and  shudder.” 

The  name  “Dead  Sea”  is  right,  for  not  a  microbe  lives  within  it  and 
around  it  no  semblance  of  vegetation.  White  sand  beaches  sparkle  with 
salt  encrustations.  Trunks  of  trees  brought  down  by  the  Jordan  “swellings” 
lie  stretched  along  its  shores  like  the  whitened  skeleton  of  some  pre¬ 
historic  mastodon.  Fish  brought  down  from  the  Jordan  and  the  few  streams 
entering  the  sea  from  the  east  are  immediately  killed  and  pickled  per¬ 
manently  in  its  brine  and  float  about  or  lie  against  the  beach.  In  the  vicinity 
grows  the  Sodom’s  apple,  or  “Dead  Sea  fruit  that  turns  to  ashes  on  the  lips.” 
It  is  the  Osher  of  the  Arabs.  It  grows  to  considerable  size  and  has  a  gray 
cork-like  bark  with  long  oval  leaves.  The  fruit  resembles  a  large  yellow 
apple,  beautiful  to  behold,  soft  to  the  touch,  but  when  pressed  it  explodes 
with  a  puff,  leaving  only  the  peel  and  the  silky  core.  It  is  found  also  in 
Nubia,  Arabia,  and  Persia,  contrary  to  general  opinion.  It  is  also  untrue 
that  birds  flying  across  the  sea  fall  dead  upon  its  surface.  Ducks  float  upon 
it  and  wild  geese  rest  there  in  their  flight.  Birds  are  found  floating  dead, 
but  they  perish  from  exhaustion. 

One  cannot  sink  in  its  waters  and  the  sensation  of  a  Dead  Sea  bath  is 
as  enjoyable  as  novel.  One  floats  about  like  a  cork  lying  listless  on  its 
bosom,  or  standing  upright,  or  swimming  about  with  peculiar  ease  and 
pleasure.  One  should  not  remain  too  long  and  a  speedy  rub  down  in  fresh 
water  is  necessary.  Bathers  often  hasten  to  the  Jordan  for  that  purpose. 
You  emerge  with  an  imaginary  feeling  that  you  had  taken  a  dip  in  a 
sorghum  vat.  Some  tents  of  Bedouins  were  pitched  on  the  shore  and  their 
women  made  vehement  protests  against  our  bath,  judging  from  the  volume 
of  jabbering  and  gesticulation.  We  wore  our  bath  suits  and  helmets. 

We  did  not  pay  our  respects  to  Mrs.  Lot  as  she  was  too  far  to  the 
southwest.  We  are  told  that  “pillars,”  or  piles  of  salt  are  common  here 
and  one  is  pointed  out  as  Lot’s  wife,  but  though  we  accept  the  account  of 
Genesis,  we  can  hardly  believe  that  so  small  a  piece  of  salt  would  survive 
the  erosions  of  four  thousand  years  and  stand  there  until  this  day  unless 
miraculously  preserved,  which  no  one  accepts.  Doubtless  her  only  monu- 


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ment  is  a  single  reference  of  the  Master  calling  her  sad  fate  to  our  re¬ 
membrance.  Let  us  learn  from  her  doom  that  in  this  modern  age,  as  in 
all  ages,  any  one  who  looks  back  or  even  hesitates  will  be  “salted  down” 
and  left  behind  in  the  quick  procession.  Of  course  she  reminds  us  of  the 
penalty  of  disobedience  and  the  futility  of  gambling  with  the  chances  against 
God’s  commands.  Treatment  of  the  electric  and  irrigative  possibilities  of 
the  Jordan  valley,  including  a  gigantic  development  staggering  in  its  big¬ 
ness,  will  be  reserved  for  future  discussion. 

We  have  treated  at  length  the  historic  significance  of  the  Jordan  and 
also  its  physical  characteristics.  It  remains  for  us  to  close  this  chapter 
with  a  few  words  relative  to  its  striking  symbolism. 

First,  rising  in  the  heights  and  plunging  downward  into  the  Sea  of 
Galilee  the  Jordan  is  a  symbol  of  the  buoyancy,  vivacity,  and  promise  of 
youth.  Its  meandering  of  180  miles  in  sixty  represents  the  undecided,  in¬ 
determinate  vacillations  of  many  a  young  man  who  never  finds  himself  or 
his  life  work  until  too  late.  The  future  uses  of  the  waters  of  the  sea, 
treated  in  a  later  chapter,  making  the  desert  valley  of  the  Jordan  to  blossom 
again  as  of  yore,  is  a  picture  of  what  his  life  might  become.  But  alas,  it 
plunges  into  the  Dead  Sea  of  defeat  and  oblivion. 

Second,  the  Sea  of  Galilee  is  a  perfect  picture  of  life,  of  fertility  and 
refreshment  and  blessing.  The  Dead  Sea  is  the  symbol  of  death,  barren¬ 
ness,  and  cursing.  The  same  water  flows  into  each.  The  one  entertains  it 
for  a  little  while  and  then  passes  it  on  to  make  its  contribution  as  it  can 
to  the  lower  Jordan.  The  other  accepts  it  and  hoards  it  with  never  a  single 
drop  given  out  save  that  under  the  compulsion  of  the  sun’s  tropic  rays. 
What  an  impressive  lesson  of  life!  There  are  those  rich  souls  whose  genial 
personalities  receive  much  from  nature  and  from  grace  and  gladly  pass  it 
on  to  bless  and  cheer  and  brighten  the  vales  of  human  life;  who  like  the 
Master  go  about  doing  good,  asking  not,  “What  can  I  get?”  but  “What  may 
I  give?”  These  are  the  rich,  the  abundant  lives  fat  and  flourishing  and 
growing.  They  live  by  the  side  of  the  road  where  go  by  the  races  of  men. 
Their  lives  are  a  perpetual  benediction  while  upon  earth  and  go  marching 
on  with  compound  interest  after  the  bright  flowers  bloom  above  their  sleep¬ 
ing  dust.  In  contrast  there  are  those  who,  like  the  spider,  sit  within  the 
center  of  their  webs  with  every  stran  a  sensitive  feeler  outward  asking, 
“What  shall  I  have  for  dinner?”  “What  is  there  in  it  for  me?”;  souls  that 


158 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


“rot  inwardly  and  foul  contagion  spread”;  exaggerated  egoes  filling  their 
own  little  words;  non-progressives;  non-contributors  to  society’s  weal;  tight¬ 
wads;  Old  Scrooges,  and  Silas  Marners  without  their  saving  qualities.  They 
die  and  are  buried  and  lift  up  their  eyes  in  hell,  being  in  torment,  like 
Dives,  for  this  is  the  first  intimation  we  have  that  he  ever  “lifted  up  his 
eyes,”  or  that  he  had  ever  seen  Lazarus  except  as  a  community  pest  that 
had  to  be  endured.  Or  like  Lot,  who  viewed  the  world  as  he  viewed  the 
rich  Jordan  plain,  as  a  field  for  growing  vast  flocks  of  fat  sheep  and  of 
cattle  in  abundance,  instead  of  a  field  for  investment  in  human  ilfe  and  its 
imperishable  wealth. 

“The  bread  that  bringeth  strength  I  want  to  give, 

The  water  pure  that  bids  the  thirsty  live: 

I  want  to  help  the  fainting  day  by  day; 

I’m  sure  I  shall  not  pass  again  this  way. 

I  want  to  give  the  oil  of  joy  for  tears, 

The  faith  to  conquer  crowding  doubts  and  fears. 

Beauty  for  ashes  may  I  give  alway: 

I’m  sure  I  shall  not  pass  again  this  way. 

I  want  to  give  good  measure  running  o’er, 

And  into  angry  hearts  I  want  to  pour 

The  answer  soft  that  turneth  wrath  away; 

I’m  sure  I  shall  not  pass  again  this  way. 

I  want  to  give  to  others  hope  and  faith, 

I  want  to  do  all  that  the  Master  saith; 

I  want  to  live  aright  from  day  to  day; 

I’m  sure  I  shall  not  pass  again  this  way. 

Lastly  the  Jordan  is  an  emblem  of  separation.  It  was  the  barrier  be¬ 
tween  wandering  Israel  and  their  promised  possession,  “a  land  of  hills  and 
valleys;  and  drinketh  water  of  the  rain  of  heaven;  a  land  which  the  Lord 
thy  God  careth  for;  the  eyes  of  the  Lord  are  always  upon  it  from  the  be¬ 
ginning  of  the  year  even  unto  the  end  of  the  year.”  Deut.  11:11-12.  So  to 
us  it  emblemizes  death,  that  dark  stream  that  separates  the  scenes  of  our 
earthly  migrations  from  those  of  our  heavenly  inheritance — a  land  of  hills 
and  valleys  of  versatile  beauty  and  happiness,  where  no  night  comes,  for 
the  sun  shall  never  go  down;  and  in  it  a  New  Jerusalem  where  there  is  no 
Temple  save  God  and  the  Lamb,  and  where  all  the  kings  of  the  earth  bring 


159 


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their  glory  into  it,  and  the  gates  stand  ajar  that  all  whose  names  are  written 
in  the  Lamb’s  book  of  life  may  go  in  and  out  at  will  in  His  perpetual  and 
joyful  service.  The  descriptions  of  it  as  a  “swelling  flood,”  as  a 
“rolling  Jordan,”  as  “a  cold  river”  are  overdrawn.  We  shall  not  find  it  so 
when  we  seek  to  cross,  and  the  same  hand  that  parted  its  waves  for  the 
tribes  of  Israel,  and  later  for  the  old  prophet  Elijah,  will  part  them  for  us 
if  we  belong  to  Him. 

“Could  we  but  stand  where  Moses  stood 
And  view  the  landscape  o’er, 

Not  Jordan’s  wave  nor  death’s  cold  flood 
Should  fright  us  from  the  shore.” 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


Bethlehem — Solomon’s  Pools — Hebron. 


Bethlehem  Today. 


“Kwown  and  loved  by  all  men,  women,  and  especially  children  every¬ 
where. 


163 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


Bethlehem — Solomon’s  Pools — Hebron. 

Bethlehem — the  most  famous  town  on  earth — famous  far  in  excess  of  its 
size,  sits  on  a  hill  six  miles  south  of  Jerusalem  and  almost  in  sight  of  it. 
We  leave  by  the  Jaffa  Gate,  pass  down  the  Hinnom  valley  around  by  the 
scarp  of  old  Mt.  Zion  high  above  our  heads.  To  the  near  left  is  the  diminutive 
tree  on  which  Iscariot  hanged  himself.  It  is  but  a  “sapling”  and  the  limbs 
are  low  and  one  wonders  how  the  event  could  have  happened.  Also  the  age 
of  this  famous  tree  complicates  the  fabulous  claim.  Ascending  the  southern 
slope  we  cross  the  elevated  plateau,  or  “Valley  of  Rephaim,”  or  giants, 
where  David  twice  defeated  the  Philistines  and  pursued  them  from  Gibeon 
to  Gazeh.  Soon  we  are  shown  the  Well  of  the  Magi.  It  is  said  that  here 
the  Wise  Men  saw  the  star  reflected  in  the  bottom  of  the  well.  It  will  be 
recalled  that  it  had  temporarily  disappeared  as  they  went  into  Jerusalem 
and  being  directed  of  the  chief  priests  and  scribes  that  the  birth  of  the 
King  should  occur  in  Bethlehem,  they  started  in  that  direction.  On  a  hill 
to  the  left  is  the  Greek  Convent  of  Elijah,  or  Mar-Elyas.  It  is  claimed  that 
Elijah  tarried  here  in  his  flight  from  the  infuriated  Jezebel.  A  depression 
in  a  big  rock  by  the  roadside  is  where  he  slept.  However,  the  convent  takes 
its  name  from  one  Bishop  Elias  and  has  no  remote  connection  with  the 
prophet  and  is  hardly  worth  the  reference. 

The  view  of  Bethlehem  from  this  elevation  is  impressive.  Bethlehem 
known  and  loved  by  all  men,  women,  and  especially  children  everywhere; 
the  one  city  that  cannot  be  hid,  famed  in  song  and  story,  for  here  was  born 
long  years  ago  “the  Savior  which  is  Christ  the  Lord.”  His  cradle  was  but 
a  manger,  His  companions  but  the  simple  kine,  His  adorers  but  a  few 
shepherds  of  the  hills,  yet  out  of  that  cave  has  come  a  king  that  “has  lifted  the 
gates  of  empires  from  their  hinges  and  turned  back  the  stream  of  centuries.” 
and  is  destined  to  rule  the  world.  Proceeding  southward  we  reach  the  Tomb 
of  Rachel.  It  is  a  double-compartment  concrete  building  twenty  by  forty 
feet  in  dimension.  The  front  room  is  but  the  vestibule  to  the  rear  where 
is  the  Sarcophagus  under  which  is  the  reputed  grave  of  Rachel.  It  is  prob¬ 
ably  authentic.  It  was  observed  in  an  earlier  chapter  that  tombs  of  Biblical 
characters  had  been  preserved  by  Jew  and  Moslem  and  Christian.  This  is 
the  grave  of  a  Jewess,  the  building  was  erected  by  Moslems,  and  it  is  like- 


165 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


wise  respected  by  Christians.  There  is  no  more  touching  episode  than 
Rachel’s  death  and  its  effect  on  Jacob.  Every  one  recalls  that  she  was  his 
favorite  and  much  beloved  wife.  They  were  journeying  south  from  Bethel 
and  at  this  spot  Benjamin  was  born  and  Rachel  died  while  “there  was  but 
a  little  way  to  come  to  Ephrath  and  was  buried  in  the  way  to  Ephrath  .  .  .  . 
and  Jacob  set  up  a  pillar  upon  her  grave:  that  is  the  pillar  of  Rachel’s  grave 
unto  this  day.”  Gen.  35:16-20.  Many  long  years  afterwards  Jacob,  an  old 
and  bent  man,  leaning  upon  his  staff,  goes  back,  back  to  his  first  love  and 
her  sad  death  and  he  repeats  in  tenderest  tones  the  story  of  his  bereave¬ 
ment.  “And  as  for  me,  when  I  came  from  Padan,  Rachel  died  by  me  in  the 
land  of  Canaan  in  the  way,  when  there  was  yet  but  a  little  way  to  come  to 
Ephrath;  and  I  buried  her  there  in  the  way  of  Ephrath;  the  same  is 
Bethlehem.”  Gen.  47:7.  As  we  entered  this  tomb  we  saw  the  walls  dis¬ 
figured  with  all  kinds  of  scribblings  by  ignorant  visitors.  The  outer  com¬ 
partment  was  filled  with  Jewish  pilgrims  whom  we  had  formerly  seen  at 
the  Wailing  Place.  They  were  weeping  again,  presumably  out  of  sympathy 
for  Jacob;  for  what  other  reason  we  could  not  surmise.  In  the  tomb  compart¬ 
ment  venders  were  selling  native  drinks,  cakes  resembling  ginger  cakes, 
and  slices  of  melon. 

Bethlehem  (Beit-Lahm)  means  House  of  Bread,  and  such  it  has  become. 
For  from  this  village  has  gone  the  Bread  of  Life,  the  Manna  from  heaven 
that  not  alone  satisfies  the  hunger  of  the  world’s  heart  but  feeds  and 
nourishes  and  develops  the  spiritual  forces  of  all  men  in  all  ages  and  all 
places.  The  town  is  situated  on  a  hill  with  well  cultivated  terraces  of  vines 
and  fig  trees,  and  with  fertile  corn  and  wheat  fields  surrounding.  Until 
recently  little  farming  occurred  and  the  land  was  used  for  grazing.  Bedouins 
who  people  the  Wilderness  of  Engedi  to  the  south  and  east  confiscated  every¬ 
thing  in  sight.  Hence  the  people  subsisted  by  manufacturing  souvenirs,  such 
as  bracelets,  rosaries,  beads,  paper  knives,  paper  weights,  cigar  holders, 
match  boxes,  etc.  The  material  used  is  olive  wood,  reputed  to  come  from 
Gethsemane  which  is  false,  mother  of  pearl,  and  Dead  Sea  stone.  The  shops 
supply  most  of  the  stores  in  Jerusalem.  The  workmen  are  very  adept.  They 
sit  on  the  floor  or  ground  and  wield  the  tools  with  skill.  One  of  the  most 
interesting  sights  was  that  of  artisans  turning  a  small  lathe  with  one  hand 
and  holding  the  article  lathed  with  the  toes.  A  bow  resembling  those  of 
our  boyhood  had  the  cord  wrapped  around  the  lathe  wheel  and  by  pulling 
it  back  and  forth  a  rapid  revolving  was  produced.  We  saw  here  another 


166 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


use  of  a  similar  bow,  though  much  longer.  The  wool  was  carded  by  snapping 
it  with  the  bowstring.  In  fact  we  saw  this  at  several  points.  As  soon  as 
we  entered  the  market  place  we  were  beset  by  determined  and  persistent 
venders  of  trinkets,  post  cards,  etc.  Two  of  them  almost  came  to  blows 
over  the  purchase  of  a  trifle. 

The  little  city  contains  2,000  houses  and  8,000  people.  They  were  more 
civil  and  cleanly  than  any  we  saw.  The  women  were  more  attractive.  It 
is  said  that  they  are  a  mixture  from  the  days  of  the  Crusaders,  which  per¬ 
haps  applies  to  a  large  portion  of  the  population.  The  Bethlehem  women 
love  to  deck  themselves  in  embroidered  jackets  of  brightest  hues  and  rich 
colored  veils.  They  visit  each  other  much  and  sit  on  the  floor,  or  rather  0:1 
fancy  figured  rugs,  drinking  the  strong  oriental  coffee  from  tiny  cups  and 
smoking  the  tchibouk.  Quite  a  number  of  wealthy  Jews  live  here,  having 
come  from  various  parts  of  the  world  in  order  to  die  on  sacred  soil  and  there 
be  buried.  See  one  such  building  in  the  foreground  of  the  picture.  Bethlehem 
is  the  most  Christian  town  in  Palestine.  Once  Moslems  were  in  the  majority 
and  they  rebelled  against  Ibrahim  Pasha  in  1834  and  were  almost  ex¬ 
terminated  by  him  and  the  Moslem  Quarter  destroyed. 

As  above  stated,  here  Rachel  died,  and  the  beautiful  Ruth  gleaned  after 
the  reapers  her  handfuls  of  wheat,  and  incidentally  gleaned  a  fine  old 
bachelor  for  a  good  husband.  Here  David,  Ruth's  grandson,  was  anointed 
king  while  in  the  nearby  fields  he  tended  his  father’s  flocks  and  composed 
many  of  the  beautiful  Psalms,  including  perhaps  the  noble  Twenty-Third, 
while  the  strains  from  his  harp  trembled  on  the  adjacent  hillsides,  which 
same  hillsides  and  fields  later  caught  up  the  midnight  song  of  angels  sent 
to  announce  the  gladdest  news  the  world  ever  received.  “Glory  to  God  in 
the  highest,  and  on  earth  peace,  good  will  to  men;  for  unto  you  is  born 
this  day  in  the  City  of  David  a  Saviour,  which  is  Christ  the  Lord.”  It 
should  be  mentioned  that  four  of  David’s  nephews,  Joab,  Abishai,  Asahel, 
sons  of  his  sister,  Zeruiah,  and  Amasa,  son  of  the  other  sister,  Abigail, 
attained  considerable  celebrity  as  brave  men.  Asahel  was  “light  of  foot 
as  a  wild  roe.” 

The  city  today  centers  its  interest  in  the  Church  of  the  Nativity.  It  is 
the  oldest  existent  Christian  church,  being  built  by  Helena  A.  D.  330.  It 
is  90  by  100  feet  and  contains  a  large  inner  chapel  with  two  rows  of  mono¬ 
lithic  columns  with  fine  Corinthian  decorations.  There  are  24  columns  in 


167 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


each  row.  The  crests  of  the  Crusader  Knights  who  visited  the  church  in 
the  12th  century  are  carved  on  these  columns.  Some  of  them  are  supposed 
to  have  been  relics  of  Solomon’s  Temple.  It  is  more  probable  that  they 
came  from  Solomon’s  elegant  porch  in  Herod’s  Temple.  The  walls  were 
once  adorned  with  fine  paintings  and  mosaics  but  the  corrosions  of  the 
centuries  have  defaced  them.  The  wooden  roof  is  decayed.  The  grottos 
of  the  Nativity  and  the  Manger  attract  chief  attention.  The  former  is  a 
rock  hewn  chapel  10  by  12  by  33  feet,  at  the  end  of  which  in  a  grotto  is 
the  place  where  was  first  heard  the  “baby’s  low  cry.”  A  large  brass  star 
on  a  marble  floor-plate  marks  the  exact  spot.  Rich  red  velvet  curtains  with 
gilded  lace  ornaments  covering  them  are  gracefully  draped  over  the  alcove 
while  fifteen  silver  lamps  perpetually  burn  above  this  hallowed  spot,  six 
belonging  to  the  Greeks,  four  to  the  Romans,  and  five  to  the  Armenians. 
Nearby  and  very  similarly  located  is  another  cave  said  to  locate  the  Manger, 
or  the  feed  trough,  in  which  the  infant  Christ  was  laid  in  lieu  of  a  cradle. 
This  reputed  manger  is  now  in  the  Church  of  San-Maria  Maggiore  at  Rome. 
A  little  to  one  side  is  the  Chapel  of  the  Annunciation  of  the  angel  to  Joseph 
that  he  should  flee  into  Egypt.  Farther  on  is  the  Chapel  of  the  Innocents 
where  the  large  number  slain  by  Herod’s  demonic  decree  are  said  to  have 
been  buried.  The  Milk  Grotto  is  where  Mary  was  in  hiding  before  the  flight 
and  its  snowy  whiteness  is  due  to  the  fact  that  a  single  drop  of  her  milk 
fell  on  the  floor.  It  is  sacred  to  maternity  and  to  this  day  many  mothers 
kneel  here  and  the  flow  of  nourishment  increases  in  sufficient  quantities 
for  their  infants.  Those  unable  to  visit  the  grotto  get  the  same  results 
from  eating  a  certain  biscuit  in  which  the  dust  from  the  rock  is  mixed. 
One  chapel  is  dedicated  to  Saint  Jerome,  the  eminent  saint  and  scholar  who 
lived  for  many  years  in  this  cave  and  translated  his  version  of  the  Scriptures. 
He  was  canonized  and  is  buried  here.  There  are  a  number  of  other  chapels 
of  minor  importance. 

On  a  tablet  in  the  Place  of  the  Nativity  is  a  Latin  inscription,  “Hie  de 
Virgine  Maria  Jesus  Christus  natus  est.”,  on  this  spot  Jesus  Christ  was 
born  of  the  Virgin  Mary.  There  is  little  room  for  doubt  as  to  the  reliability 
of  this  claim.  At  least  it  has  the  credibility  of  venerable  antiquity.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  the  church  was  built  in  330  A.  D.  and  tradition  says 
that  the  exact  cave  was  well  known  and  preserved  up  to  that  time.  The 
marble  of  the  floors  of  this  Nativity  Chapel  is  being  worn  by  the  knees  and 
lips  cf  devout  worshipers  who  come  in  a  continual  stream  from  far  and  near. 


IG3 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


On  Christmas  Day  from  2  p.  m.  till  midnight  the  town  is  filled  with  pilgrims 
and  the  church  is  crowded  to  suffocation  with  a  scrouging,  frantic  condensed 
mass  of  human  flesh,  each  one  trying  to  get  nearest  the  star.  Turkish 
soldiers  stand  guard  and  in  the  past  serious  riots  have  occurred  and  a  number 
have  perished;  right  here  on  the  spot  where  the  Prince  of  Peace  was  born. 
The  Mohammedan  guards  are  continually  in  evidence.  Mohammedans  have 
always  revered  Christ  as  a  great  prophet  next  to  Mohammed  himself  and 
under  Turkish  rule  they  exercised  control  of  the  church  though  it  was  a 
Catholic  edifice,  and  under  the  terms  of  the  English  capture  all  sacred  places 
were  left  as  formerly.  Hence  the  Moslem  guards. 

About  a  mile  north  of  the  town  is  David’s  Well.  When  he  and  his  men 
were  hiding  in  the  Cave  of  Adullam  six  miles  south  of  Bethlehem,  which 
town  was  in  the  possession  of  the  Philistines,  David  expressed  a  desire  for 
some  of  the  water.  “Oh  that  one  would  give  me  drink  of  the  water  of  the 
well  of  Bethlehem,  which  is  by  the  gate.”  Three  mighty  men  broke  through 
the  enemy’s  lines  and  brought  it  to  him,  but  he  refused  to  drink  of  it  be¬ 
cause  the  lives  of  the  three  had  been  so  greatly  hazarded  in  securing  it, 
and  he  poured  it  out  on  the  ground.  His  act  is  open  to  criticism. 

A.  short  distance  east  of  the  town  is  the  Shepherds’  Field  where  sang 
the  angels  long  ago.  It  is  still  regarded  with  great  sanctity.  On  the  day 
before  Christmas  large  numbers  of  the  pilgrims  from  many  lands  gather 
here  and  celebrate  with  a  mammoth  picnic,  many  of  them  becoming  in¬ 
toxicated.  The  ground  of  the  field  is  covered  in  spring  time  with  beautiful 
scarlet  anemones,  the  “Flies  of  the  field”  so  richly  adorned  by  the  deft  touea 
of  the  infinite  artist  that  the  gorgeous  decorations  of  Solomon’s  courtly 
robes  were  not  worthy  to  be  compared. 

South  of  Bethlehem  a  few  miles  is  a  wild  and  seamy  section  known  as 
the  Wilderness  of  Engedi,  in  the  western  and  wildest  part  of  which  is 
the  Cave  of  Adullam  mentioned  above.  It  is  entered  by  crawling  on  hands 
and  knees  ever  huge  boulders.  The  cave  is  a  large  hallway  130  feet  long 
and  40  broad  with  lateral  chambers  opening  further  into  the  limestone 
mountain.  One  cave  but  leads  into  another.  Here  David  hid  from  Saui, 
and  his  father  Jesse  and  family  resorted  unto  him,  as  did  many  who  were 
in  distress  and  debt,  and  he  organized  them  into  a  band  over  which  he  was 
captain.  Nearby  in  the  valley  are  the  three  large  Pools  of  Solomon,  or  the 
reservoirs  he  built  in  the  prosperous  days  of  his  reign.  Fine  stone  aqueducts 


169 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


conveyed  the  water  to  Jerusalem  by  Bethlehem  and  immense  cisterns  under 
the  Temple  were  kept  filled  in  readiness  for  siege,  and  the  gardens  blossomed 
and  fruited  under  the  effect  of  irrigation.  There  is  still  considerable  water 
in  them.  They  have  been  repaired  from  time  to  time.  Since  1902  a  five- 
inch  pipe  conveys  the  water  to  Jerusalem.  Not  far  off  were  the  Gardens 
of  Solomon  described  in  Eccle,  2,  and  Song  Sol.  4. 

Eighteen  miles  to  the  south  of  Bethlehem  is  Hebron,  the  city  of  Abraham, 
El-Khalil,  the  Friend.  Its  antiquity  vies  with  that  of  Damascus  as  a  con¬ 
tinuous  city.  It’s  first  name  was  Kirjath-arba,  from  Arba,  the  father  of 
Anak  the  giant.  Mamre,  however,  a  little  to  the  west  was  the  more  prob¬ 
able  residence  of  Abraham.  The  Cave  of  Macphela  bought  by  him  from 
the  sons  of  Heth  located  at  Hebron  gets  its  interest  from  the  fact  that 
Abraham  and  Sara,  Isaac  and  Rebecca,  Jacob  and  Leah,  are  all  buried  here. 
The  graves  are  generally  understood  to  be  authentic.  A  fine  Mosque  covers 
the  grave  and  but  few  favored  dignitaries  save  Moslems  have  ever  been 
privileged  to  enter  the  caves.  It  is  one  of  the  deepest  regrets  of  the  writer’s 
life  that  he  did  not  get  to  view  these,  the  world’s  most  famous  tombs.  Some 
day  it  may  be  this  coveted  privilege  shall  come.  Photos  possessed  give  a 
good  general  view.  We  shall  borrow  the  fine  description  of  Mr.  Henry 
Morganthau,  who  as  our  ambassador  to  Turkey  recently  visited  the  tombs, 
securing  special  permission  from  the  Sultan: 

“Several  of  the  tombs  were  above  ground,  and  over  them  were  erected 
stone  catafalques,  their  sides  adorned  with  gorgeously  embroidered  rugs, 
and  broken  by  grilled  doorways,  through  which  entrance  to  the  tomb  itself 
was  permitted.  (He  means  here  that  of  Abraham.)  The  other  tombs  were 
in  caves  below  the  mosque.  They  could  be  seen  through  holes  left  in  the 
floor  for  that  purpose.”  At  the  suggestion  of  Dr.  Hoskins,  a  Christian 
missionary  of  the  party,  ten  minutes  were  spent  in  silent  prayer  and  Mr. 
Morganthau,  a  Jew,  says  that  “the  ten  minutes  spent  in  this  prayer  was  the 
most  sacred  of  my  life.”  He  says,  “Never  have  I  experienced  so  solemn 
and  exalted  an  emotion  as  that  which  filled  my  spirit,  standing  there  to 
worship  in  these  tombs  four  thousand  years  old  around  which  converged 
and  met  a  sublime  religious  history  which  had  altered  the  life  of  one-half 
the  human  race  for  forty  centuries.”  Not  far  away  is  the  Oak  of  Mamre 
in  a  garden.  It  is  large  but  not  that  of  four  thousand  years  ago.  Acorns 
are  sold  the  pilgrim  for  souvenirs.  Here  appeared  the  Lord  to  Abraham 


170 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


as  he  sat  in  the  door  of  his  tent  on  the  day  before  the  destruction  of  Sodom 
and  Gomorrah,  and  from  some  peak  nearby  he  viewed  its  ascending  smoke. 
Here  lived  Jacob  when  Joseph  was  taken  from  him.  Later  Joshua  captured 
and  destroyed  it  and  gave  it  to  Caleb,  his  brave  compatriot.  It  became  one 
of  the  Cities  of  Refuge.  David  resided  here  seven  and  one-half  years  and 
Absalom  was  born  here.  The  brave  Abner  was  killed  and  buried  here  and 
later  came  here  Absalom  to  steal  away  the  hearts  of  the  people  from  his 
father  under  the  pretext  of  performing  a  religious  vow.  Here  his  rebellion 
started  that  ended  so  ingloriously  and  so  deplorably  for  this  rebellious  and 
ungrateful  son.  But  it  is  most  renowned  for  its  possession  of  the  tomb  of 
an  old  shepherd  who  went  out  long  before  from  home  and  kindred  at  the 
command  of  God,  not  knowing  whither  he  went,  but  because  of  his  implicit 
faith  in  God  and  obedience  to  him  became  the  father  of  an  endless  progeny 
known  as  the  sons  of  God  that  shall  eventually  be  as  numerous  as  the  stars 
of  heaven  and  the  sands  of  the  sea  for  multitude. 


171 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Palestine  the  Old  and  the  New. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Palestine,  the  Old  and  the  New. 

Notwithstanding  its  smallness  Palestine  has  filled  a  place  in  the  eyes 
and  actions  of  the  past  far  in  excesss  of  its  size.  It  has  been  the  pawn 
for  which  nations  have  striven  back  and  forth  with  all  the  vehemence  of 
their  capacity.  Dynasties  have  risen  and  fallen  because  of  her,  and  her 
total  soil  has  been  soaked  in  the  blood  not  only  of  her  own  population,  but 
that  of  her  invading  hosts. 

No  spot  of  land  has  been  so  distinguished  and  no  people  have  suffered  so 
much  as  her  people.  Belgium  is  described  as  the  “Cock-pit  of  Europe.” 
Palestine  is  the  “Cock-pit  of  the  world.”  The  march  of  armies,  the  clash 
of  weapons  of  war,  and  the  din  of  battle  has  ever  been  hers.  Into  her  and 
through  her  have  marched  Assyrians  and  Babylonians,  Egyptians  and 
Ethiopians,  Hittites  and  Israelites,  Midianites  and  Syrians,  Greeks  and 
Romans,  Parthians  and  Persians,  Arabs  and  Mongols,  Turks  and  Franks, 
and  three  thousand  white  crosses  at  Jerusalem  and  others  at  various  points 
tell  of  the  recent  baptism  of  her  war  torn  soil.  Jerusalem  herself  from 
earliest  times  to  its  destruction  A.  D.  70  by  the  Roman  legions,  including 
thirty-three  centuries  of  her  history,  according  to  the  eminent  historian, 
George  Adam  Smith,  “has  endured  some  twenty  sieges  of  the  utmost  se¬ 
verity;  almost  twenty  blockades  and  military  occupations;  ....  earthquakes 
which  have  rocked  her  foundations,  ....  and  about  eighteen  reconstructions.” 

“Death  rode  upon  the  sulphury  siroc, 

Red  battle  stamped  his  foot  and  nations  felt  the  shock.” 

Even  the  author  of  Lamentations  could  say  of  her  500  years  before  Christ, 
“Behold  and  see  if  there  be  any  sorrow  like  my  sorrow.”  Lam.  1:2.  Then 
imagine  her  sufferings  for  two  and  a  half  succeeding  milleniums.  Says 
Milman,  “Jerusalem  has  probably  witnessed  a  far  greater  portion  of  human 
misery  than  any  other  spot  upon  the  earth.”  Despite  all  this  she  has 
steadily  persisted  and  vast  populations  have  clung  to  and  subsisted  upon 
her  soil.  It  is  estimated  that  two  million  Israelites  entered  with  Joshua, 
including  the  two  and  a  half  tribes  that  settled  east  of  the  Jordan.  Per¬ 
haps  a  million  more  remained  of  original  inhabitants,  as  many  of  its  most 
desirable  sections,  including  much  of  the  Jordan  Valley,  remained  un- 


175 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


subdued.  It  is  reliably  estimated  that  at  least  six  million  were  there  in 
the  time  of  Christ. 

Excavators  have  found  at  Lachish  six  successive  cities  and  this  is  true 
in  multiplied  instances.  On  top  cf  the  soil  are  remains  of  ancient  aqueducts, 
temples,  palaces,  demolished  ruins,  roadways,  and  relics  of  a  long  and 
glorious  past.  Beyond  the  deductions  of  the  explorers  on  and  below  ground, 
we  know  but  little  in  detail  of  what  vast  peoples  and  what  teeming  cities 
of  wealth  and  splendor  existed  from  Dan  to  Beer-Sheba.  After  Israelitish 
occupation  we  have  the  definite  chronicle  of  sacred  and  profane  history,  both 
of  which  encourage  us  to  believe  that  the  productivity  of  the  soil  met  the 
needs  of  her  dense  populations. 

Once  the  slopes  of  the  many  hills  and  mountains  were  either  covered 
with  forests  or  decked  with  vine  covered  terraces  and  olive  orchards,  while 
its  vales  waved  with  golden  harvests  and  vast  herds  of  cattle  pastured  fat 
upon  its  rich  herbage.  The  forests  conserved  and  retained  the  winter  rains 
and  there  gushed  forth  from  the  granite  hillsides  many  streams  along  whose 
banks  harvests  and  orchards  alternated  with  gold  and  green.  It  was  indeed 
a  land  that  flowed  with  milk  and  honey  and  oil  from  the  rocks. 

Its  two  most  glorious  epochs  were  first,  Solomon’s  wide  and  rich  reign; 
second,  the  years  just  before  Christ  and  up  to  364  A.  D.,  when  Rome  be¬ 
came  divided,  the  one  Jewish  and  co-operative,  the  other  Roman  and  com¬ 
pulsive.  But  when  in  637  A.  D.  Palestine  fell  to  the  Mohammedan  Caliphs 
and  the  Turks  the  blistering  blight  of  Islam  settled  down  dark  and  dismal 
upon  her.  From  then  till  1917  when  the  good  hand  cf  God  broke  her  strangle 
hold  and  a  progressive  nation  assumed  the  mandatory  control  the  land  dis¬ 
integrated  and  its  people  suffered  and  starved  and  diminished  in  numbers 
and  in  quality  until  today  all  the  trees  are  gone,  virtually  all  the  terraces 
are  washed  down  into  the  valleys,  Bedouin  herdsmen  follow  wandering  flocks, 
pasturing  on  v/hat  meager  remains  of  harvested  crops  they  can  find.  For 
nine  months  the  hot  sun  bakes  the  dry  hillsides  and  the  breezes  fill  the  air 
with  lime  dust.  The  population  today  of  Palestine  is  but  700,000,  four-fifths 
of  whom  are  Mohammedans,  76,000  are  Jews,  and  77,000  are  Christians, 
mostly  Catholics.  But  one-tenth  of  its  former  population  now  eke  out  a 
miserable  subsistence.  But  its  former  glory  may  be  repeated.  The  soil 
is  rich  and  productive  as  of  old.  Granted  favorable  conditions  and  again 


176 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


will  the  vine,  the  fig  tree,  the  almond  and  the  olive  make  verdant  the  slopes 
while  the  sower  may  go  forth  to  sow  and  the  reaper  may  rejoice  over 
abundant  harvests  that  wave  for  a  prosperous  and  happy  people. 

On  December  11,  1917,  at  high  noon  the  clock  struck  the  hour  that 
presaged  the  regeneration  of  this  long  cursed  land.  General  Edmund  H.  H. 
Allenby  entered  Jerusalem  and  the  blighting  Turk  fled.  The  people  wept 
for  joy.  The  world’s  pulse  quickened,  for  the  civilized  world  loves  Palestine 
and  is  tremendously  interested  in  it.  Had  there  come  no  other  asset  of  the 
war,  the  liberation  of  the  Holy  Land  was  worth  all  the  effort  and  suffering 
and  sacrifice  incident  to  the  awful  struggle.  What  England  then  possessed 
she  now  holds,  and  will  hold,  and  her  record  of  just  and  wise  administration 
elsewhere  will  be  and  is  now  being  sustained.  She  of  herself  is  able  to 
supervise  and  finance  the  vast  development  of  Palestine  resources.  But 
Jews  the  world  over  have  asked  the  privilege  of  bringing  back  the  land  of 
their  fathers  to  its  erstwhile  glory.  Zionism  today  is  the  world’s  foremost 
enterprise.  The  Keren  Hayesod  is  the  international  organization  that  has 
aroused  world  Jewry  and  multi-millions  of  dollars  are  being  and  will  be 
poured  forth  in  addition  to  government  resources.  There  is,  of  course,  a 
division  within  Jewish  ranks,  but  not  serious  enough  to  prevent  enthusiastic 
success.  Then  the  Moslem  world  and  the  Pope  are  very  unfavorable,  the 
former  very  fanatically  objective,  the  latter  discreetly  so,  but  a  wise 
diplomacy  and  humane  consideration  will  obviate  all  these  difficulties  in  the 
end.  Whatever  other  objections  are  made  there  are  two  that  compel 
meritorious  consideration.  First,  the  oppressed  Jewry  in  Russia  and  other 
similar  situations  needs  a  homeland  of  free  atmosphere.  Second,  Palestine 
itself  needs  the  brains,  money,  and  restorative  wizardry  of  the  published 
Zionist  program.  This  program  includes  in  its  intended  benefits  all  of  the 
residents  and  promises  faithfully  to  build  Palestine  not  only  for  Jews  but 
for  Moslems  and  Christians  as  well.  In  keeping  with  this  broad  and  wise 
policy  Earl  Balfour,  England’s  great  Secretary  of  State  for  Foreign  Affairs, 
issued  on  November  2,  1917,  his  memorable  statement  known  as  “The  Balfour 
Declaration.”  It  is  brief  and  is  as  follows:  “His  Majesty’s  Government 
views  with  favor  the  establishment  in  Palestine  of  a  National  Home  for  the 

Jewish  People,  and  will  use  its  best  endeavors  to  facilitate  the  achievement 
of  this  object,  it  being  clearly  understood  that  nothing  shall  be  done  which 

may  prejudice  the  civil  and  religious  rights  of  existing  non-Jewish  corn- 


177 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


munities  in  Palestine,  or  the  rights  and  political  status  enjoyed  by  Jews 
in  any  other  country.”  On  January  11,  1922,  he  reaffirmed  his  position  in 
these  words,  “Where  I  stood  then,  I  stand  now.  The  hope  I  then  enter¬ 
tained,  I  entertain  still  ....  My  interest  in  the  cause,  my  belief  in  its  final 
success,  my  intense  desire  to  see  the  ideal  of  the  Jewish  Home  transformed 
into  a  great  reality  has  not  diminished  or  suffered  any  cooling  during  the 
years  that  have  elapsed  since  the  original  Declaration  was  made.”  He  is 
hailed  by  Jews  everywhere  as  Cyrus  the  II  making  possible  another  and 
greater  return  of  the  scattered  Nation  to  its  homeland.  The  House  of  Com¬ 
mons  under  the  zealous  leadership  of  Mr.  Winston  Churchill,  the  Colonial 
Secretary,  on  July  4,  1922,  by  a  vote  of  292  to  35,  ratified  this  Declaration. 
Zionists  held  a  world  jubilee.  The  United  States  House  and  Senate  had  just 
prior  to  that  date  passed  a  sympathetic  resolution  embodying  the  ideal  of  the 
Declaration.  Now  the  way  is  open  and  the  English  Government  issued  its 
manifesto  on  July  1  giving  its  Palestine  program,  called  “The  White  Paper.” 
It  is  that  which  was  adopted  July  4.  This  paper  recognizes  the  various  and 
serious  difficulties,  cautions  reasonable  deliberation  and  slowness  of  action,  re¬ 
stricts  immigration  to  sane  limits,  and  gives  Zionists  the  right  to  lay  out  and 
execute  their  mammoth  program  under  the  protection  of  the  Union  Jack. 
For  the  past  fifty  years  Jews  have  been  colonizing  and  fifty  colonies  have 
been  established.  Large  quantities  of  land  have  been  purchased.  The 
most  prosperous  location  is  near  Jaffa  at  the  town  of  Tel-Aviv,  founded 
thirteen  years  ago,  which  by  great  hardship  has  made  the  desert  to  bloom 
as  the  rose.  Citrus  fruits  grow  well  and  plentifully  produce.  Beautiful 
gardens  abound.  It  elicited  Mr.  Churchill's  extravagant  praise  and  is  but 
a  prophecy  of  future  developments  in  the  large.  No  one  has  ever  accused 
the  Jewish  nation  of  being  brainless  or  moneyless.  This  city  has  a  popula¬ 
tion  of  12,000  and  has  recently  voted  bonds  for  thoroughly  modern  improve¬ 
ments.  Already  there  are  factories  for  manufacturing  bricks,  fruit 
preserves,  sweets,  artificial  mineral  waters,  cork  plants,  carpenter  shops, 
etc.,  with  much  more  in  immediate  prospect.  An  additional  tract  has  re¬ 
cently  been  secured  for  an  industrial  center  of  150  shops  of  various  kinds, 
stores,  banks,  offices,  and  warehouses.  Another  1,250  acre  addition  has  also 
been  purchased  for  fruits  and  vegetables.  Thus  can  be  seen  a  model  of 
many  similar  industrial  and  civic  centers  all  over  the  land.  Fifty  years  from 
today  Palestine  will  be  the  garden  of  the  world.  Its  climate  is  healthy 
save  on  certain  marshes  and  streams  and  war  against  the  anopheles  mosquito 


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and  drainage  will  eliminate  all  that.  Eucalyptus  gardens  will  be  planted. 
These  counteract  malaria.  With  fine  harbors  constructed  at  Jaffa  and  Haifa 
and  also  near  Gaza  and  with  modern  railroad  facilities  the  greatest  tourist 
and  resort  objective  of  the  world  is  within  almost  immediate  prospect. 
There  are  hot  sulphur  springs  around  the  Sea  of  Galilee  and  up  and  down 
the  Jordan  valley  and  the  slopes  of  the  Anti-Lebanons  and  the  mouuntains 
of  Judea  with  intended  forestation  will  make  living  or  tourist  residence 
there  a  joy  and  delight.  Alexandria  and  Cairo  are  great  winter  resorts. 
Most  of  the  country  is  elevated,  and  breezes  continually  blow.  The  nights 
even  in  August  are  delightfully  cool.  For  nine  months  at  least  the  Holy 
Land  under  the  magic  of  modern  skill  will  prove  the  resort  of  the  civilized 
world.  The  Sea  of  Galilee  will  be  belted  with  beautiful  villas  and  bathing 
and  sailing  and  fishing  will  furnish  continual  pleasure.  Sentiment  will  play 
its  large  part.  Jews  will  be  passionately  drawn  to  it  and  Gentiles  but 
little  less. 

Palestine  is  rich  in  agricultural  and  horticultural  possibilities  and  the 
essential  means  of  developing  these  is  at  hand  and  will  be  discussed  below. 
In  1913  the  exports  of  high  grade  barley  reached  19,000  tons,  olive  oil 
3,500  tons,  oranges  1,608,000  tons,  almonds  over  2,000,000  pounds,  light 
wine  1,000,000  gallons,  one  million  watermelons.  These  exports  fell  off 
during  the  war  but  now  are  rapidly  coming  back  and  will  steadily  increase. 
At  least  80  per  cent  of  all  Palestine  is  possible  agricultural  land  giving, 
with  the  Moab  plains  and  Hauran  beyond  Jordan,  an  area  of  20,000  square, 
miles. 

Ezekiel  cries  out  in  his  immortal  vision,  “Everything  shall  live  whither 
the  river  cometh.”  He  thus  expresses  the  essential  and  fundamental  need 
of  Palestine’s  rehabilitation.  Water,  water,  water.  His  description  of  the 
redemption  of  the  desert  and  wilderness  of  En-Gedi — and  such  it  surely  is 
today — is  but  a  prophetic  epitome  of  possible  and  probable  redemption  of 
the  whole  land.  The  waters  issued  out  of  the  Temple.  In  other  words, 
religious  inspiration  and  patriotism  would  furnish  the  reclamative  means. 
This  is  being  done.  A  religious  nation  holds  the  mandate.  A  religious 
people,  a  people  whose  solidarity  has  been  preserved  through  the  ages  by 
its  religion  alone,  are  fulfilling  the  prophecy.  This  essential  watering  will 
occur  from  two  sources.  First,  scientific  forestation  will  hold  and  release 
gradually  the  heavy  winter  rainfall,  which  averages  around  thirty  inches. 


179 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


What  does  not  percolate  through  the  soil  will  easily  be  impounded  and  re¬ 
leased  gradually.  Secondly,  and  most  important,  gigantic  and  wholesale 
irrigation  schemes  will  harness  and  distribute  every  drop  of  water  its 
numerous  streams  afford — and  one  would  be  surprised  at  their  number.  Mr. 
Pinchus  Ruttenburg,  a  great  civil  engineer  and  a  Jew,  has  secured  a  con¬ 
cession  from  Great  Britain  for  controling  these  waters  and  electrifying  as 
well  as  irrigating  vast  regions.  His  concession  is  known  as  the  Ruttenburg 
Scheme  and  already  Jews  alone  have  subscribed  more  than  the  amount 
estimated  for  the  project.  American  Jews  at  once  rushed  forward  an  I 
took  $1,110,000  of  stock  in  the  enterprise.  The  authority  is  secured,  the 
money  is  in  hand,  the  plan  has  been  endorsed  as  eminently  feasible.  It 
comprehends  building  a  great  dam  south  of  and  near  Lake  Galilee,  using  the 
escaping  water  for  a  large  electric  plant  to  be  used  primarily  for  pumping 
the  fresh  waters  of  the  Lake  into  an  upland  reservoir  that  with  canals  and 
aqueducts  will  irrigate  all  the  Jordan  Valley  and  other  sections  adjacent. 
This  will  not  destroy  the  Lake  but  will  dry  up  the  Dead  Sea  and  make 
available  its  salt  and  other  mineral  riches.  Smaller  projects  will  be  built 
on  other  streams  and  what  the  Nile  has  done  for  Egypt  on  a  large  scale, 
and  what  the  Barada  has  done  for  Damascus  on  a  small  scale,  will  be  done  by 
Ruttenburg  for  Palestine.  In  addition  efforts  will  be  made  for  a  big 
system  of  artesian  wells  if  necessary.  With  water,  with  soil  fertility,  with 
climate,  who  can  picture  the  next  century  in  Palestine? 

Still  another  project  far  more  staggering  than  this  has  been  much  dis¬ 
cussed  and  endorsed  by  leading  Norwegian  and  English  engineers.  It  con¬ 
templates  building  an  underground  tunnel  135  feet  in  diameter  from  the 
Mediterranean  Sea  to  the  Dead  Sea,  which  is  a  fall  of  1,300  feet  in  some  fifty 
miles.  This  tunnel  would  perhaps  go  deep  under  Jerusalem.  From  it  side 
flumes  would  lead  to  small  electric  plants,  the  salt  water  being  flumed  back 
into  the  Dead  Sea.  At  a  suitable  location  a  mammoth  electric  plant  would 
generate  millions  of  horse  power  that  would  electrify  all  Palestine.  It  was  in¬ 
tended  to  transmit  power  to  the  pumping  station  at  Galilee.  This  would  raise 
the  level  of  the  Dead  Sea  but  six  inches  and  damage  no  soil  not  hitherto  dead. 
The  two  projects  are  feasible  and  do  not  conflict  and  though  the  Ruttenburg 
scheme  will  be  first  in  execution  the  other  will  come  along  as  needed. 
This  is  not  Utopian  or  impractical.  Sacred  relics  will  remain,  the  old 
walls  of  Jerusalem  will  abide,  but  Jerusalem  will  be  builded  outside  the 


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present  city  into  a  metropolis  of  a  half  million  souls.  A  great  Jewish 
University  is  already  being  established  on  Mount  Scopus  without  the  walls. 
The  city  will  perhaps  be  a  religious  and  educational  capitol  and  residential 
city  for  the  rich.  I  have  but  hinted  at  the  problem  of  Zionism  which  openly 
claims  a  coming  Jewish  majority.  It  takes  no  seer  to  predict  that  probability, 
and  that  is  what  stirs  the  Moslem  to  desperation.  Candor  compels  me  to 
say  that  well  may  he  be  aroused.  He  must  go,  whether  he  should  or  not. 
Many  think  his  past  record  demands  it.  The  Jew  will  possess  the  land. 
He  will  pay  good  prices  for  it.  He  will  run  Palestine.  Brains  always  rule. 
However,  he  will  need  native  labor  and  will  pay  well  for  it.  In  the  mean¬ 
time  old  Mesopotamia  will  be  brought  back,  harnessing  the  waters  of  the 
Tigris  and  Euphrates  and  at  an  estimated  cost  of  $128,000,000  room  for  a 
prosperous  Moslem  multitude  will'  be  provided  on  such  favorable  terms 
that  a  gradual  and  steady  flux  of  emigrants  will  congregate  back  here  at 
the  cradle  of  the  race.  Eden  thus  will  return,  at  least  materially. 

Suitable  industrial  ventures  at  present  feasible  and  needed  in  Palestine 
are  flour  milling,  olive  oil  and  etherial  oil  factories,  sugar  refineries,  cocoa 
and  chocolate  factories,  wines,  starch,  paper  milling  for  orange  packing, 
cotton  textiles — for  Syria  already  grows  2,000  tons  and  Palestine  can  and 
will  grow  it  largely — tanneries  of  which  there  is  abundant  material  ani 
there  will  be  much  more,  glass  works,  machine  shops,  building  materials, 
silicate  stones,  chemical  research  and  manufacturing  industries.  Jewish 
initiative  and  resources  will  suggest  many  more. 

The  mineral  resources  of  Palestine  are  very  rich.  There  are  quarry 
stones,  abundant  everywhere,  lime  abundant  and  of  good  quality,  salt  in 
vast  quantities,  carnalite,  important  as  manure,  found  in  abundance  in  the 
waters  of  the  Dead  Sea  as  is  also  bromine,  sulphur  in  environs  of  same, 
phosphates  east  of  the  Jordan,  asphalt,  bituminous  limes  in  plentiful 
quantities,  petroleum.  Palestine  is  between  the  oil  regions  of  Egypt  and 
Mesopotamia  and  oil  springs  are  found  in  several  places.  Also  geological 
reports  are  favorable.  Leases  in  large  quantities  have  been  taken  up  by 
English  and  American  companies,  including  the  Standard  Oil  interests. 
Copper,  alum,  amber,  ozokerite,  or  kerosene  bearing  shale — these  and  many 
more  might  be  mentioned. 

Politically  we  cannot  surmise  what  the  hand  of  Providence  shall  decree 
or  what  will  be  the  moves  on  the  national  chess  board,  but  we  believe  that 


181 


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England  will  keep  her  just  and  considerate  hand  upon  this  loved  spot  and 
will  foster  all  legitimate  development.  A  Jewish  Republic  may  become  an 
eventuality.  Fifteen  million  Jews  only  are  in  the  world.  Only  half  of  them 
are  oppressed  and  always  only  a  minority  would  wish  to  return.  But  the 
rest  will  lay  down  the  money  for  those  who  do  wish  it  and  Jewish  brother¬ 
hood  or  national  cohesion  will  always  back  up  this  anticipated  realization 
of  a  vision  that  has  always  danced  before  an  exiled  nation  whose  persecu¬ 
tions  have  cried  to  heaven  for  redress,  and  the  persistence  of  whose 
nationalism  and  cohesion  is  the  world’s  most  ethnic  miracle.  It  may  be 
that  the  prophecies  are  literal  and  while  the  Christian  is  now  the  son  of 
Abraham  by  faith,  who  knows  but  that  this  Palestinian  rehabilitation  is  but 
the  prologue  of  that  glorious  drama  when  Israel  shall  again  gather 
around  the  brow  of  Calvary,  not  this  time  to  deride  or  to  crucify  assentedly, 
but  to  look  in  tearful  penitence  on  His  face  whom  they  once  pierced,  even 
though  it  was  honestly  done,  and  will  welcome  Him  in  glorious  triumph  to 
a  throne  and  a  kingdom  worldwide  in  its  sweep  and  universal  in  its  blissful 
results,  when  “every  knee  shall  bow,  of  things  in  heaven,  and  things  in 
earth,  and  things  under  the  earth;  and  every  tongue  shall  confess  that 
Jesus  Christ  is  Lord  to  the  glory  of  God  the  Father.”  Phil.  2:10-11. 
“Thus  saith  the  Lord:  I  am  returned  unto  Zion,  and  will  dwell  in  the  midst 
of  Jerusalem  and  Jerusalem  shall  be  called  a  city  of  truth;  and  the  moun¬ 
tain  of  the  Lord  of  hosts  the  holy  mountain.”  Zach.  8:2. 


182 


The  Author  as  Sheik  of  the  Sahara  Desert. 


183 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


Going  Down  Into  Egypt. 

It  took  Israel  40  years  to  cross  the  desert.  It  was  done  by  our  little 
party  by  rail  in  16  hours.  Thus  the  magic  of  the  inventor,  the  skill  of  the 
mechanic,  the  daring  of  the  pioneer,  have  condensed  the  duration  of  years 
into  a  few  brief  hours,  and  have  abbreviated  the  winding  mileage  of  the 
desert  into  a  short  steel  ribbon  of  commerce  and  transportation  and,  as 
mentioned  in  a  former  chapter,  have  actually  brought  the  Nile  into  Pales¬ 
tine.  For  as  we  sped  along  southward  we  saw  the  large  water  pipes,  some¬ 
times  above  ground,  sometimes  indicated  by  a  thrown  up  sand  ridge,  while 
at  every  station  passengers  filled  their  small  water  jars  at  the  friendly 
spigots  and  the  engine  drank  liberally.  Over  a  smooth  roadbed  we  hastened 
and  the  shrill  engine  whistle  rang  across  the  blanched  and  barren  stillness 
of  the  desert  like  a  thing  of  life  screaming  in  triumph  over  the  torrid  heat 
of  the  sun,  the  oceans  of  sand,  and  the  hitherto  impassabilities  of  the  desert. 
Here  and  there  at  rare  intervals  we  saw  palm  groves  and  other  vegetation, 
a  sure  index  of  an  occasional  spring.  We  caught  flashes  of  blue  from  the 
Mediterranean  as  we  drew  near  its  shore,  which  we  soon  began  to  hug,  de¬ 
touring  at  Lake  Sirbon,  a  large  lagoon  fringed  with  marsh.  We  passed 
Bir-el-Abt  where  is  a  good  well  and  some  trees  and  about  four  p.  m.  we 
came  into  Kantara  on  the  Suez  canal.  Here  we  transferred  to  the  Cairo 
train  and  here  we  had  our  patience  sorely  taxed  over  the  exactions  of 
custom  officers  whose  only  qualification  was  a  uniform  and  a  piece  of  chalk. 
Five  dollars  was  extorted  from  this  scribe,  every  cent  unjustly.  We  had  the 
satisfaction  of  taking  it  up  personally  with  the  head  office  in  Alexandria 
and  long  after  our  return  home  received  a  draft  in  full  for  the  amount. 

The  canal  is  about  200  feet  wide  and  carries  thirty  feet  of  water.  While 
we  were  waiting  several  large  steamers  and  much  smaller  craft  slow!y 
passed  under  the  draw.  This  canal  is  a  world  convenience  and  a  source  of 
large  revenue  to  England.  It  was  built  by  Ferdinand  deLessups,  whose 
old  home  is  at  Ismailia,  five  miles  south,  where  a  fresh  water  canal  con¬ 
nects  with  the  Nile  near  Cairo.  Kantara  is  on  the  ancient  highway  over 
which  traveled  Abraham  and  Sara  and  over  which  migrated  Jacob  and  his 
family  “going  down  into  Egypt.”  In  fact  the  railroad  had  conformed  largelv 
to  this  old  and  much  used  caravan  route  and  even  still  we  met  or  passed 


185 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


Going  Down  to  Egypt. 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


* 


camel  trains  rocking  along  at  snail’s  pace  as  it  was  done  in  the  days  before 
Abraham  was.  What  a  contrast  of  the  old  with  the  new.  Shall  the  camel 
pass  before  the  iron  horse,  the  auto,  or  the  flying  machine,  as  the  horse  has 
done,  or  will  do,  in  America?  We  cannot  look  so  far  into  the  future,  but 
some  day  when  water  shall  flow  through  the  desert  and  the  wilderness  and 
solitary  place  shall  be  made  glad  it  may  be  so.  If,  as  St.  Paul  affirmed  at 
Athens,  God  has  set  the  boundaries  of  the  habitations  of  men,  it  may  also 
be  said  that  He  has  also  placed  the  needed  animals  for  his  service  and 
sustenance.  The  camel  is  one  of  God’s  best  creatures.  His  worth  is  onLy 
exceeded  by  his  ugliness.  We  saw  him  tried  under  all  conditions  and  he 
was  always  ready  to  do  his  master’s  bidding.  ’Tis  true  that  he  growls  when 
he  gets  down  and  grunts  when  he  gets  up,  but  means  nothing  by  it.  The 
following  composition  of  the  little  boy  is  worth  giving  here:  “The  cammil 
is  a  sheep  of  the  desert.  It  does  not  have  to  get  angry  to  get  its  back  up 
for  nature  made  it  that  way.  When  cammils  go  on  a  journey  they  drink 
as  much  water  as  to  last  many  days.  Such  cammils  are  called  aquiducks.” 
Blessings  on  the  “cammil.”  We  would  like  to  say  more  of  him  but  must 
desist  at  present.  We  shall  meet  him  again  at  the  Pyramids  and  shall  add 
a  few  words  of  him  then. 

At  nine  p.  m.  we  pulled  into  Cairo.  Of  course  we  were  greatly  fatigued, 
but  a  bath  and  rest  in  a  fine  room  in  the  New  Khedivial  hotel  made  us  over. 
We  were  wakened  by  the  chant  of  the  muezzin  over  our  heads  nearby  and 
the  screech  of  the  Osiris  bird.  This  bird,  sacred  to  the  Egyptians,  nests 
in  the  many  palm  trees.  Under  our  window  was  the  beautiful  park  of  the 
Syrian  Club  and  in  each  of  the  many  palms  it  seemed  that  “old  Sirus”  sat 
and  screeched.  He  is  of  a  dull  dove  color  and  is  slightly  larger  than  a 
pigeon.  We  saw  them  everywhere  and  heard  them  where  we  did  not  see. 

In  riding  from  Kantara  to  Cairo  we  had  crossed  the  Land  of  Goshen 
where  Joseph  placed  his  father’s  family  and  where  they  remained  430  years. 
Ex.  12:40.  The  Nile  divides  just  north  of  Cairo  into  several  mouths  and 
forms  a  rich  delta  which  spreads  out  like  a  fan.  This  is  alluvial  soil  and 
very  fertile.  From  the  east  prong  to  the  upper  Red  Sea  stretches  a  vale 
or  plain  through  which  ran  an  ancient  canal  of  sufficient  size  to  float  large 
ships.  It  connected  the  Red  Sea  with  the  Nile.  It  is  now  filled  up.  This 
section  was  especially  suitable  for  pasturage  of  the  vast  flocks  of  Israel, 
as  that  was  their  main  occupation.  At  the  beginning  of  the  80  years’  op¬ 
pression  Rameses  the  Second,  the  Pharaoh  that  knew  not  Joseph,  forced  the 


188 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


Israelites  to  build  two  large  fortified  cities  within  this  territory.  They  were 
called  “treasure  cities”  and  named  Pithom  and  Raamses,  and  were  used  to 
house  the  rent  collected  from  the  Israelite  slaves  and  to  garrison  the  land 
to  keep  them  subdued,  as  they  were  increasing  so  rapidly.  Exodus  1:11. 

At  the  head  or  handle  of  the  beautiful  green  Nile  fan  delta  sits  Cairo 
like  a  diamond  setting  off  the  emerald  background.  Heroditus,  the  father 
of  history,  says  that  “Egypt  is  the  gift  of  the  Nile.”  This  famous  river, 
the  longest  on  earth,  rises  4,037  miles  south  in  the  heights  of  equatorial 
Africa  in  the  lakes  Victoria  Nyanza  and  Albert  Nyanza,  that  is  the  White 
Nile  prong,  so  called  from  the  clay  through  which  it  runs  discoloring  the 
water.  The  other  prong,  the  Blue  Nile,  rises  way  up  in  the  Abysinian 
mountains  10,000  feet  high  and  descends  through  a  series  of  falls.  They 
unite  at  Khartoum.  The  melting  snows  on  these  heights  produce  the  Nile 
freshets  which  periodically  overflow  and  so  fructify  the  celebrated  valley 
that  it  has  made  an  ancient  civilization  of  peculiar  prominence  and  still 
sustains  its  fame  with  dependable  seasons  and  abundant  harvests.  The 
Assouan  dam,  farther  up  the  river,  is  one  of  the  world’s  most  gigantic 
undertakings  and  by  it  the  water  is  impounded  and  properly  distributed. 
Because  of  evaporation  and  irrigation  the  Nile  decreases  in  volume  as  it 
nears  the  sea.  At  Cairo  it  is  1,100  feet  wide.  A  beautiful  little  island  called 
Rhoda  lies  in  its  middle.  Here  is  shown  you  the  ancient  bathing  place  of 
Pharaoh’s  daughter  and  the  spot  in  a  bunch  of  flags  or  rushes  where  the 
arklet  containing  the  “proper  child”  Moses  was  discovered.  It  may  be  the 
spot.  Nearby  is  the  nilometer  built  in  the  early  part  of  the  8th  century  by 
one  of  the  rulers.  It  is  a  well  with  descending  stair  steps  and  a  scale  for 
measuring  the  height  of  rising  water.  Prior  to  its  establishment  a  standard 
tax  was  imposed  and  failure  to  pay  entailed  great  hardships.  Some  years 
the  rise  was  too  meager  to  guarantee  a  harvest.  This  nilometer  was  in¬ 
tended  to  regulate  the  tax  according  to  the  registered  amount  of  water. 
It  helped  much  for  some  time  but  dishonest  officers  took  advantage  of  the 
ignorant  fellahin  and  it  fell  into  disrepute.  One-half  mile  north  of  Rhoda 
is  the  island  of  Gizireh,  somewhat  larger  and  across  it  runs  the  Nile  bridge 
over  which  passes  the  main  road  leading  to  the  pyramids. 

The  Nile  valley  is  sometimes  20  miles  wide  but  averages  7  miles.  Canals 
and  irrigation  ditches  are  the  main  methods  of  furnishing  water  to  the  fields. 
Then  there  are  wells  with  chain  buckets  lifted  by  oxen  treading  round  and 
round,  or  perhaps  donkeys.  This  is  called  “Sakieh.”  These  buckets  empty 


189 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


a  constant  stream  into  a  ditch.  Then  there  are  smaller,  simpler  methods, 
notably  that  used  by  the  hand  lift  called  “Shaduf.”  A  pole  balanced  on 
an  upright  carrying  a  basket  daubed  with  pitch  is  dipped  into  the  canal  or 
the  river  and  swung  around  and  elevated  to  a  higher  level  of  irrigation.  It 
is  a  tedious  and  laborious  process  but  successful  for  a  small  area.  The 
Upper  Nile  begins  to  rise  in  February  and  reaches  the  delta  below  Cairo  in 
May  and  is  highest  in  September  and  remains  at  its  maximum  level  for 
14  days.  The  usual  rise  is  24  feet.  It  leaves  a  rich  deposit  and  in  some 
places  the  alluvial  depth  is  40  feet.  As  is  known,  the  climate  is  tropical. 
The  fields  produce  lavishly  of  cotton,  tobacco,  rice,  sugar-cane,  sorghum, 
barley,  beans,  clover,  maize,  and  much  else,  especially  vegetables,  including 
melons  and  cucumbers.  The  plowing  is  still  crude  and  done  by  camels  and 
donkeys  on  the  dry  land  and  water  buffaloes  in  the  water  or  marshy  sections. 

Cairo  is  a  Moslem  center  and  minarets  are  as  abundant  almost  as  in 
Damascus,  but  more  ornate.  The  muezzin  still  calls  prayers  for  a  fanatic 
multitude.  The  city  today,  new  Cairo,  El  Kahireh,  “The  Victorious,”  con¬ 
tains  600,000  people  or  more.  Old  Cairo,  Fostat,  was  situated  nearer  the 
Nile  and  south  of  the  Citadel.  It  was  built  in  700  A.  D.  The  Citadel  is  the 
chief  building  in  modern  Cairo  and  sits  on  its  highest  elevation,  250  feet, 
in  the  southeastern  margin  of  the  city.  It  covers  several  acres  and  is  called 
“The  Castle  of  the  Nile.”  It  was  erected  in  1166  A.  D.  by  the  great  Saladin, 
the  chivalrous  foe  of  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion.  The  large  stones  composing 
it  were  brought  from  several  of  the  small  pyramids  and  one  of  the  large 
ones  and  no  respect  was  shown  for  these  monumental  and  massive  tombs, 
some  of  them  at  least  5,000  years  old.  Here  in  its  great  court  Mohammed 
Ali  in  1811  treacherously  slaughtered  479  of  the  Mamalukes,  or  descendants 
of  the  powerful  slave  kings  that  preceded  him.  They  were  invited  to  a 
banquet  and  fired  on  by  soldiers  hidden  in  the  galleries  overhead.  Only 
one,  Emyn  Bey,  leaped  his  horse  over  the  wall,  falling  100  feet,  and  escaped 
by  springing  from  the  saddle  just  before  reaching  the  ground.  He  sustained 
a  broken  collar  bone  and  a  general  shake  up  but  fled  to  a  mosque  and  thence 
was  spirited  to  the  desert  and  survived.  Within  the  Citadel  are  numerous 
buildings.  The  celebrated  Alabaster  Mosque  is  the  finest  one  in  the  city. 
In  erecting  it  Mohammed  Ali  bankrupted  Egypt.  It  cost  four  million  dollars 
and  is  indescribably  beautiful.  White  alabaster  pillars  and  walls  glisten 
as  the  light  floods  down  through  the  mammoth  dome.  Rich  curtains  hang 
here  and  there  and  the  floor  is  covered  with  great  rugs  of  fabulous  cost. 


190 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


Many  of  them,  however,  were  donated  by  wealthy  rulers  and  other  patrons, 
as  in  Omar  and  Omalyade.  This  mosque  was  designed  as  the  tomb  of  its 
builder  and  his  mummied  remains  lie  in  a  gorgeous  mausoleum  in  one 
corner  of  the  building.  We  climbed  to  the  highest  point  of  the  Citadel  and 
obtained  a  view  long  to  be  remembered.  Due  east  and  nearby  are  the 
Mokattam  Hills  containing  petrified  forests  and  as  far  as  sight  can  reach 
wave  the  white  billows  of  a  sea  of  sand.  To  the  north  and  west  lies  the 
whole  city  of  Cairo  with  its  narrow  streets  and  towering  minarets.  To  the 
east  is  the  Nile  and  ten  miles  beyond  stand  the  lordly  and  majestic  pyramids, 
silent  sentinels  of  dead  centuries  and  vanished  glory.  They  do  not  seem 
so  large  at  this  distance.  We  had  ample  reason  to  revise  our  estimate  the 
following  day. 

The  Mosque  of  the  Sultan  Hassan  is  adjacent  to  the  Citadel  and  is  be¬ 
lieved  by  some  to  be  more  elegant  than  that  of  Mohammed  Ali.  It  may 
have  once  excelled  it,  and  indeed  there  are  many  magnificent  interior  fur¬ 
nishings,  but  in  the  main  the  building  is  in  decay.  The  oldest  mosque  is 
that  of  Hassoun,  not  far  from  the  above.  One  of  its  three  minarets  has 
outside  spiral  stairs  up  which  the  Sultan  might  ride  his  horse  if  he  should 
so  desire.  This  was  his  expressed  reason  for  ordering  it  so  built.  In  Old 
Cairo  is  the  Mosque  of  Amer,  formerly  alluded  to  in  Chapter  X,  with  the 
duplicate  columns  similar  to  those  in  the  Mosque  El-Aksa.  Passage  between 
these  was  a  sure  passport  to  heaven.  Amer  was  the  great  general  of  the 
Khalif  Omar.  When  it  was  completed  he  exclaimed:  “With  this  mosque 
the  religion  of  El-Islam  rises,  and  with  its  fall  perishes  the  faith  of  our 
holy  prophet.”  The  natives  still  quote  and  believe  this  saying  and  the 
dilapidated  condition  of  the  building  must  haunt  them  continually.  It  is 
prophetic,  for  the  care  any  people  exercise  toward  their  houses  of  worship 
is  an  unfailing  index  of  prevailing  religious  conditions.  The  mosques 
generally  are  crumbling  and  their  worshippers  decreasing.  There  are  many 
mosques  in  and  around  the  city  but  the  above  are  the  most  prominent.  It 
is  significant  that  nowhere  we  toured  are  mosques  in  course  of  erection, 
while  most  of  them  are  in  need  of  repair.  Islam  must  go.  The  crescent 
must  wane  before  the  cross. 

The  bazarrhs  of  Cairo  are  exceedingly  interesting  and  approximate  those 
of  Damascus.  They  are  segregated  as  there.  The  principle  bazarrh  street 
is  El-Khaleel,  a  long  street  running  north  and  south  and  paralleling  the 


191 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


canal  of  the  same  name,  El-Khalia.  Theie  are  the  Tunis  bazarrhs  for 
Arab  and  Moorish  cloaks,  rugs,  shoes,  burnooshes,  etc.;  the  El  Azhar  or 
book  stores  where  Korans  are  sold  as  well  as  printed;  the  El-Ghoria  selling 
cotton  goods,  silks,  fezes,  etc.;  the  gold  and  silver  lace  shops;  bazarrhs  for 
fruits;  slippers,  red  and  yellow  colors  predominating;  carpets  and  divan- 
rugs;  antique  ornaments;  jeweled  scimetars;  all  sorts  of  goods  from  far 
off  India,  from  Persia  and  the  Arabian  desert — from  everywhere.  These 
bazarrhs,  many  of  them,  employ  runners  who  speak  good  English  and  are 
of  suave  manner  and  good  address  who,  as  self-appointed  guides,  steer  you 
into  the  proper  shop  where  its  genial  proprietor  sits  among  his  stuff  wait¬ 
ing  for  you  as  the  spider  did  the  fly.  However,  you  can  have  the  usual 
diversion  of  bargaining  as  at  Damascus  and  can  get  reliable  goods  at  fair 
prices  if  you  know  how.  Everywhere  you  go  you  meet  the  walking  sales¬ 
man  of  beads,  post  cards,  cigarettes,  and  canes.  The  beadsman  holds  out  his 
arm,  over  which  hangs  a  variety  of  beads  so  select  and  beautiful  that  no 
one  can  fail  to  admire  and  few  fail  to  purchase.  The  bazarrh  streets  ace. 
narrow  and  dark  and  unsanitary  and  exhibit  the  characteristic  commingling 
of  men,  women,  children,  horses,  donkeys,  camels,  dogs,  and  beggars.  Here 
we  saw  the  peculiar  brass  ornament  on  the  Moslem  woman’s  nose.  We  were 
told  that  it  was  a  sign  of  marriage  and  subserviency  to  the  husband;  that 
when  the  wife  was  unruly  her  lord  pressed  down  on  this  nose  ornament 
and  the  great  pain  produced  usually  effected  the  desired  control.  The  day 
of  the  militant  suffragette  has  not  come  in  Egypt.  It  surely  served  to  hold 
the  black  veil  away  from  the  nostrils  and  thus  facilitates  respiration.  The 
prevailing  dress  of  the  Moslem  woman  is  depressing  black  with  veil  to 
match.  The  better  class  women  wear  silky  transparent  white  veils  that 
reveal  jet  black  roguish  eyes  bewitching  and  beautiful.  Their  blackness, 
is  increased  by  the  use  of  kohl,  while  the  fingers  are  pinked  with  henna. 
On  the  streets  the  women  never  speak  to  men  and  are  not  spoken  to  by 
them.  We  saw  them  peering  through  latticed  windows  at  the  “Americana” 
entourage.  We  did  not  visit  a  moslem  home  and  saw  no  unveiled  women, 
but  from  outward  appearances  the  middle  and  lower  classes  are  much  cursed, 
and  depressed  while  the  better  class  are  attractive. 

We  did  not  get  to  see  the  dancing  or  howling  dervishes,  much  to  our 
regret.  But  we  did  see  the  professional  fakers.  One  arose  from  his  seat) 
beside  us  on  the  train  out  to  visit  the  Obelisk  and  ran  a  twenty  penny  nail' 


192 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


down  his  nose  and  extracted  it  from  his  mouth  along  with  a  multitude  cf 
smaller  articles.  He  soon  collected  enough  from  our  party  to  pay  his  fare. 

We  saw  him  again  at  the  hotel.  But  another  more  skillful  than  he  gave 
us  a  parlor  performance  both  interesting  and  puzzling.  From  a  little  silken 
bag  he  took  out  a  small  white  rabbit  and  many  other  articles.  Then  with 
these  he  performed  amazing  tricks,  such  as  pulling  eggs  from  the  rabbit's 
nose,  eating  cotton  and  igniting  it  in  his  stomach,  apparently,  and  blowing 
out  a  volume  of  smoke  like  a  steam  engine,  extracting  coins  from  one’s 
hand  or  pocket,  removing  rings  from  a  stick  of  which  you  held  both  ends, 
and  a  number  of  other  antics  of  similar  nature.  He  kept  repeating  “come 
rabbit,  come  snake,  come  debbil,  gully,  gully,  gully/’  the  last  word  sup¬ 
posedly  meaning  “devil.”  It  gave  a  weirdness  to  the  performance  we  did 
not  relish. 

The  Mosque  El  Ashar,  or  the  Book  Mosque,  is  now  the  University  of 
Cairo.  It  is  a  large  building  on  the  east  side  of  the  city.  It  is  boasted  that 
it  is  “the  largest  university  in  the  world,”  containing  14,000  students,  but 

due  allowance  must  be  made  for  Moslem  mendacity.  But  it  is  literally  filled 
with  a  mass  of  youth,  many  of  them  mere  beginners,  and  in  the  large  court 
they  sit  on  the  hard  floor  in  groups,  usually  clustered  with  a  teacher  around 
a  column  reading  the  Koran  and  receiving  instructions.  The  buzzing  noise 
is  nerve-racking.  It  is  interspersed  with  hissings  by  the  teacher  to  call 
attention.  Back  and  forward  they  rock  and  seem  to  be  repeating  phrases 
of  something.  Filth  and  poverty  abound.  Ranged  around  the  court  are 
rooms,  or  stalls,  where  the  students  able  to  pay  a  pittance  sleep,  while  those 
unable  to  pay  sleep  on  the  hard  floor.  Bazarrhs,  barber  shops,  laundry, 
traders  of  various  sorts,  are  mixed  in  with  the  “university”  bunches.  It 
is  said  that  it  does  some  good  work,  but  to  an  American  it  is  a  ridiculous 

burlesque  on  education  worthy  of  the  genius  of  a  Sancho  Panza.  We  were 

informed  that  much  immorality  exists,  and  the  brazen  deportment  of  various 
mere  children  on  the  streets  indicated  as  much.  Mohammedanism  contains 
no  moral  code  and  its  followers  seem  to  possess  no  moral  conscience  or 
sense  of  refinement  or  shame.  There  is  but  one  prophecy  of  the  final  out¬ 
come  of  such  a  religion — if  such  it  can  be  called — that  outcome  is  self- 

destruction  and  inward  disintegration.  Its  outstanding  feature  is  an 
intolerant  fanaticism  as  ignorant  as  it  is  fanatical.  The  world  is  far  from 
conversion  but  Christianity  with  its  beneficial  by-products  is  steadily,  thoug1) 


193 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


slowly,  making  its  triumphant  way  over  these  frightful  odds  and  obstacles 
and  some  day  in  God’s  own  time  it  shall  prevail  universally. 

“Hasten,  Lord,  the  glorious  time 
When  beneath  Messiah’s  sway 
Every  nation,  every  clime, 

Shall  the  gospel  call  obey.” 


194 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Gizeh — Heliopolis — Cheops — The  Sphinx. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Gizeh — Heliopolis — Cheops — The  Sphinx. 

The  Gizeh  Museum,  the  mammoth  repository  of  Egyptian  antiquities,  is 
situated  just  across  the  Nile  on  the  road  to  the  Pyramids.  A  beautiful 
garden  with  fountains,  parks,  and  Egyptian  statuary  surrounds  it.  In  front 
is  a  large  sphinx,  one  of  many  seen  here  and  elsewhere.  Here  has  been 
collected  all  the  finest  specimens  that  have  survived  the  hands  of  in- 
appreciative  vandalism  or  the  purloining  claws  of  covetousness.  A  large 
collection  was  removed  from  the  Boulak  museum.  From  Memphis,  Thebes, 
Luxor,  Karnak,  Philae,  Cairo,  Alexandria,  Heliopolis,  most  of  the  86 
pyramids;  from  all  Egypt  have  they  come,  and  now  repose  under  massive 
walls  and  bayonetted  guards,  for  free  inspection,  for  discriminative  study, 
and  for  permanent  preservation.  One  can  spend  an  indefinite  time  here 
wandering  from  room  to  room  and  the  study  would  amply  justify  any  time 
thus  invested.  But  it  is  beyond  the  scope  of  this  chapter  or  the  ability  of 
this  scribe  to  attempt  more  than  a  passing  mention  of  a  few  of  the  out¬ 
standing  objects  of  interest  visited.  Here  are  the  elegant  sarcophagi  of 
virtually  all  the  ancient  kings  of  the  several  ruling  dynasties  of  the  past. 
They  are  of  vari-colored  marble  and  exquisite  hand  decorations.  The  same 
can  be  said  of  the  Sacred  Bulls,  once  of  prime  importance  in  Egyptian 
worship.  Here  are  beautiful  pictorial  and  sculptured  representations  of 
ancient  life  and  customs,  often  depicted  in  panoramic  form.  These  throw 
a  flood  of  light  on  the  antique  past  and  hieroglyphic  experts  have  thus 
been  able  to  rewrite  the  enigmatic  story  of  these  wondrous  peoples.  There 
is  sculpture  of  all  kinds  that  no  hand  of  today  can  equal  in  conception  or 
execution.  For  example,  one  can  never  forget  “The  Village  Chief,”  stand¬ 
ing  with  a  lifelikeness  seen  nowhere  in  any  of  the  world’s  collections.  It 
is  4,000  years  old  and  looks  out  at  you  with  a  human  expression  that  makes 
one  listen  for  what  he  is  about  to  say.  He  seems  “yearning  to  mix  himself 
with  life.”  It  is  of  wood  perfectly  rounded  and  proportioned  and  is 
marvelously  preserved.  The  eyeballs  are  of  white  quartz,  the  iris  is  of 
darker  stone,  the  pupil  is  a  silver  nail,  and  the  lids  are  thin  folds  of  bronze. 
For  40  centuries  it  had  remained  in  its  hiding  place  and  represented  some 
eminent  personage.  It  was  found  by  the  great  Mariette,  the  world’s 
most  famous  Egyptologist,  whose  fine  monument  is  in  the  Gizeh  garden. 


197 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


When  he  broke  through  the  concealed  door  and  entered  the  vault  containing 
this  statue  bearing  testimony  to  such  a  remote  and  undisturbed  antiquity, 
he  burst  into  tears.  Even  the  footprints  of  the  burial  squad  remained  on 
the  sand  floor  of  the  large  vault.  It  was  so  lifelike  and  resembled  so  mu:h 
the  overseer  of  the  village  nearby  that  his  assistants  exclaimed,  “The 
Village  Chief,”  and  this  cognomen  will  ever  cling  to  this  famous  statue. 
In  the  Mummy  Room  we  met  Rameses  II,  the  Pharaoh  of  the  Israelitish 
oppression.  On  one  side  was  that  of  his  father,  Seti,  the  Pharaoh  of  Joseph’s 
time.  On  the  other  side  reposed  that  of  Rameses’  son,  Meneptha,  the 
Pharaoh  of  the  Exodus.  Rameses  lived  to  be  87  years  old  and  ruled  Egypt 
67  years.  His  fallen  statue  at  Memphis  weighs  900  tons  and  was  trans¬ 
ported  150  miles.  One  great  secret  of  Egyptian  embalming  was  the  ex¬ 
treme  dryness  of  the  climate.  In  the  markets  beef  hangs  for  weeks  without 
spoiling. 

Six  miles  northeast  of  Cairo  near  the  El-Khalia  Canal  is  Heliopolis,  the 
famous  city  of  On,  the  Oxford  of  Ancient  Egypt.  Potiphera  its  Priest 
was  its  Chancellor.  Joseph  married  his  daughter  Asenath  and  thus  formed 
a  very  diplomatic  alignment.  He  doubtless  studied  there  also.  Moses 
graduated  here  and  was  much  learned  in  the  arts  and  wisdom  of  the 
Egyptians.  Here  studied  Pythagorus,  Euclid,  Plato,  Heroditus.  It  covered 
several  acres  and  had  13,000  officials.  Nothing  now  remains  but  the  crumbled 
corner  of  one  of  the  walls  and  the  impressive  obelisk  with  its  base  buried 
in  the  silted  drift  of  centuries,  but  with  its  once  gilded  peak  pointing  to  the 
same  astrological  sign  as  when  with  its  mate  it  held  intelligent  converse 
with  old  Pythagorus,  assisting  him  in  that  great  geometric  discovery,  the 
secret  of  which  so  elated  him  that  he  sacrificed  a  hectacomb  to  the  gods. 
These  two  tall  obelisks  were  so  placed  and  arranged  in  front  of  the  Temple 
of  the  Sun  that  when  the  pointed  shadows  of  both  kissed  each  other  in  the 
front  doorway  it  was  high  noon.  These  pyramidal  points  were  tipped  with 
pure  gold  and  the  chiseled  hieroglphic  inscriptions  were  gold  filled  and 
doubtless  presented  a  most  beautiful  aspect.  It  is  six  feet  square  and  stands 
above  ground  66^  feet.  Its  mate  was  destroyed  800  years  ago.  This  one 
now  remaining  was  hewn  from  the  quarry  and  erected  by  Usertasen  B.  C. 
1740,  under  whose  reign  Joseph  came  to  Egypt,  and  it  is  therefore  3,662 
years  old.  Down  each  of  its  four  sides  was  a  hieroglyphic  hymn  to  the 
gods.  These  characters  are  almost  filled  up  by  beeswax  and  honeycomb. 


198 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


Near  Heliopolis  is  a  garden  of  beauty  in  which  is  “The  Virgin’s  Tree.” 
It  is  a  very  large  sycamore  with  spreading  limbs  and  hollow  trunk.  It  is 
very  old,  perhaps  500  years.  We  are  informed  that  the  Virgin  Mary  and 
the  Child  Jesus  took  refuge  in  it  and  that  God  caused  a  spider  to  spin  its 
web  across  the  hole,  by  which  web  they  were  saved  from  their  pursuers. 
In  1861  the  Khedive,  Ismail  Pasha,  offered  this  tree  to  the  Princess  Eugenia 
of  France  to  take  home  as  an  Egyptian  souvenir.  She  thanked  him  but 
requested  instead  the  skeleton  of  the  spider  that  spun  this  marvelous  web. 
Pieces  of  this  tree’s  bark  are  sold  for  relics  having  protective  and  curative 
powers.  Nearby  the  tree  is  a  very  fine  well.  Water  was  lifted  by  the 

“sakieh”  or  large  wheel  turned  round  by  oxen.  They  were  blindfolded  to 

prevent  their  attention  being  attracted  and  thus  interfering  with  their 
steady  tramping.  , 

In  this  connection  it  should  be  mentioned  that  in  Cairo  we  visited  the 
Church  of  the  Copts  and  were  shown  a  cave  deep  under  the  floor  where  the 
Holy  Family  tarried  in  seclusion  for  quite  a  while. 

The  Pyramids.  There  are  86  of  them,  great  and  small.  Perhaps  others 
have  been  demolished.  They  were  built  as  tombs  of  the  kings.  As  soon 
as  one  ascended  the  throne  he  began  the  erection  of  his  tomb,  each  seeking 
to  excel  the  others.  The  Pyramid  of  Cheops,  the  biggest  of  them  all,  is 
typical.  It  is  nearest  Cairo.  Cheops  is  a  corruption  of  Chufu,  the  second 

monarch  of  the  fourth  dynasty.  It  is  six  miles  southwest  of  the  city.  It 

was  built  in  3733  B.  C.  and  is  therefore  nearly  6,000  years  old,  though  it 
is  not  the  oldest  one,  if  the  largest.  Cephren  is  500  years  its  senior. 

“Old  Time,  himself  so  old,  is  like  a  child, 

And  can’t  remember  when  these  blocks  were  piled. 

Or  caverns  scooped;  but,  with  amaz’d  eye, 

He  seemed  to  pause,  like  other  standers-by, 

Half  thinking  how  the  wonders  here  made  known 
Were  born  in  ages  older  than  his  own.” 

These  two  with  Mycerinus  are  the  largest  in  a  group  of  three  threes,  or  a 
group  of  nine.  They  are  all  arranged  in  triangular  formation  and  from  their 
smooth  surfaces  scholars  of  that  day  could  calculate  with  exactness  the  Pro¬ 
cession  of  the  Equinoxes  and  other  astronomical  data. 

Cheops  covers  13  acres  and  contains  enough  gigantic  blocks  to  erect 
several  American  cities  or  to  build  a  fence  around  several  states.  It  con- 


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tains  85,000,000  cubic  feet  of  stone.  Heroditus  tells  us  that  100,000  men 
worked  10  years,  changing  every  third  year,  to  build  the  inclined  causeway 
over  which  the  stones  were  conveyed.  This  made  4,000,000  laborers,  while 
another  7,000,000  built  the  Pyramid.  It  has  been  estimated  that  the  leeks, 
radishes,  and  onions  alone  consumed  by  the  laborers  totaled  $2,000,000. 

It  is  482  feet  high  and  at  the  base  is  764  feet.  A  small  rock  hewn 
passage  leads  down  a  gradual  slope  into  a  small  chamber  in  its  heart.  Here 
were  the  coffins  of  the  King  and  his  favorite  queen.  It  is  easy  to  believe 
that  old  Chufu  was  hated  beyond  all  expression  by  the  oppressed  populace. 
The  big  stones  composing  it  were  handled  by  sheer  man  power  and  hewn 
far  away  and  rolled  or  dragged  over  an  inclined  causeway  for  miles  and 
miles  by  means  of  ropes,  levers,  etc.  And  this  roadway  was  continually 
built  up  as  needed.  Cheops  was  originally  plastered  over  smoothly  outside 
but  time  has  removed  virtually  all  of  it.  With  the  help  of  guides  one  can 
ascend  it  and  on  a  thirty-foot  platform,  made  so  by  removal  of  the  stones, 
one  may  stand  and  get  a  most  marvelous  view  of  the  vast  stretches  sur¬ 
rounding,  including  the  green  Nile  valley  winding  like  some  giant  anaconda 
far  to  the  heated  south.  An  expert  climber  ascends  and  returns  in  eight 
minutes  and  wants  you  to  compensate  him  for  the  feat  even  though  you 
paid  no  attention  to  him.  The  guides  are  greedy  and  treacherously  inclined 
and  half  way  up  on  the  climb  threaten  to  leave  you  or  to  throw  you  oif 
unless  you  pay  them  more  bakshish.  But  they  are  lying.  They  pursue 
the  same  miserable  tactics  on  guiding  you  into  the  dark  interior.  The 
Egyptian  guides  and  camel  drivers  are  utterly  void  of  conscience.  One 
loses  all  patience  with  them.  It  is  easy  to  condone  Moses’  act  of  slaying 
his  Egyptian.  If  he  had  only  slain  more  of  them.  We  rode  camels  from 
the  end  of  the  trolley  line  to  the  Pyramids.  There  seemed  to  be  ten  camels 
to  each  tourist  and  all  drivers  clamoring  at  once  in  broken  English  that 
his  camel  was  the  best  of  all.  Each  had  famous  names — Mark  Twain,  W. 
J.  Bryan,  Teddy  Roosevelt,  the  Prince  of  Wales,  etc.  The  writer’s  was 
named  President  Harding  and  proved  to  be  a  good  camel.  The  sensation 
was  pleasant  and  the  fact  of  being  able  to  ride  the  back  of  a  President 
of  the  United  States  added  some  interest.  In  the  preceding  chapter  we 
paid  cur  respects  to  this  great  animal.  He  fills  a  large  place  in  human 
economy.  He  gets  down  before  and  gets  up  behind  and  one  must  lean  far 
back  to  keep  from  falling.  The  nearest  we  can  express  the  camel-back 


200 


The  Sphinx  and  Cheops. 

“0,  ageless,  pulseless,  flexless,  tongueless  Sphinx, 
Still  crouching  where  the  green  Nile  belt  retards 
The  encroaching  billows  of  a  noiseless  sea.” 


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A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


sensation  is  that  one  makes  a  figure  8.  All  sorts  of  coins  and  relics,  each 
guaranteed  to  be  genuine  and  antique,  are  shown  you  and  the  urgency  and 
persistency  of  the  salesmen  is  decidedly  annoying.  You  may  know  that 
most  of  them  are  counterfeit.  We  never  saw  so  many  scarobs,  or  beetles. 
Literally  bushels  of  them  everywhere.  The  scarob  was  the  emblem  of  im¬ 
mortality. 

Near  Cheops  is  the  Sphinx,  the  most  interesting  of  all  Egyptian  objects. 
It  is  all  hewn  of  one  stone  and  the  top  of  its  head  is  the  level  of  the  base 
of  the  Pyramid  nearby.  It  has  the  body  of  a  lion  and  the  head  of  a  man 
and  represents  strength  and  wisdom,  strength  topped  and  controlled  by 
wisdom.  Its  head  is  100  feet  in  circumference  and  it  is  64  feet  from  the 
top  of  its  head  to  its  claws,  or  the  lower  part  of  its  body.  Its  paws  are 
50  feet  long  and  from  tail  to  end  of  same  is  90  feet.  It  was  of  reddish 
cyanite  granite  but  is  faded  and  is  a  light  gray  today.  Its  outstretched 
paws  are  hollow  and  through  them  lead  passages  to  an  ancient  temple,  the 
ruins  of  which  have  been  unearthed.  An  altar  to  the  Sun  stood  between 
its  paws.  It  was  a  monument  to  King  Chufu,  who  built  the  great  Pyramid. 
Its  beard  was  broken  off  and  is  now  in  the  British  Museum.  Tradition  says 
that  it  was  shot  away  by  the  Mamaluke  soldiers,  who  used  the  Sphinx  as  a 
target  for  cannon  practice.  Its  expression  is  solemn,  majestic,  awe-inspiring, 
almost  human.  It  is  a  masterpiece.  It  was  2,000  years  old  when  Abraham 
was  born  and  is  good  for  thousands  to  come. 

Much  has  been  said  about  “The  Riddle  of  the  Sphinx.”  A  great  picture 
by  Merson  in  the  Louvre  throws  more  light  by  suggestion  on  this  “riddle  ’ 
than  anything  we  have  seen.  It  is  called  “The  Repose  in  Egypt.”  The 
upturned  face  of  the  Sphinx  still  asks  the  great  questions  of  life.  It  stands 
appropriately  on  the  edge  of  the  desert  to  suggest  the  desert  state  of  the 
world  without  God  and  immortality.  Darkness  broods  over  the  scene.  Only 
the  far-off  stars  of  tradition  and  philosophy  shed  their  dim  light  upon  life’s 
dark  and  dismal  desert.  Between  the  arms  of  the  Sphinx  rest  Mary  and 
the  Child  Jesus  in  their  flight  from  Herod’s  vengeance.  The  ass  is  tethered 
nearby  in  an  oasis  and  Joseph  half  sleeps  on  the  sand  near  the  Mother  and 
Child.  The  light  of  the  picture  streams  forth  from  the  face  of  the  Babe, 
illumines  the  oasis  and  the  adjacent  sands,  and  stretches  far  away  over  the 
desolate  waste  and  penetrates  the  darkness.  So  indeed  did  its  ancient 
builder  build  far  better  than  he  knew.  This  creature  of  his  insatiable  spirit 


203 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


seeking  to  express  itself  in  carved  granite,  perhaps  like  all  ages  and  races 
of  men,  “feeling  after  God  lest  haply  they  might  find  Him,”  but  pointed 
forth  unconsciously  and  pathetically  to  the  fulfillment  of  all  hopes,  the 
culmination  of  all  dreams,  the  attainment  of  ail  quests,  the  gratifying  of  all 
aspirations,  the  answering  cf  all  riddles,  the  satisfying  of  all  hungers, — 
the  Christ  of  Bethlehem,  the  anointed  of  God,  the  Bread  of  Life,  the  Light 
of  the  World.  Jesus  in  the  lap  of  the  Sphinx — the  religion  of  the  future 
resting  upon  and  fulfilling  the  religion  of  the  past — that  is  the  great  Sphinx 
lesson. 


O,  ageless,  pulseless,  flexless,  tongueless  Sphinx, 

Still  crouching  where  the  green  Nile  belt  retards 
The  encroaching  billows  of  a  noiseless  sea, 

While  far  off  gleam  white  sails  of  mystic  ships 
On  gliding  to  some  far  flung  spectral  shores. 

The  lengthy  circling  centuries  sweeping  by 
Have  little  marred  thy  mute  majestic  mien. 

Thy  silent  eyes  look  forth  as  in  the  dim 
Remote  and  obscure  ages  of  the  past, 

Scanning  the  thoughts  and  deeds  of  passing  men. 

They’ve  seen  dynastic  powers  rise  and  wane, 

Beheld  them  stalking  forth  upon  the  stage, 

Transact  their  minute  parts  and  disappear 
Like  vanished  white  clad  ghosts,  surviving  but 
In  chiseled  hieroglyph  or  polished  shaft. 

Thy  face  sustains  its  prime  expressive  pose 
As  when  from  parent  rock  thou  stoodest  forth 
Sublime  in  all  thine  ancient  royal  poise. 

Thy  riddle  yet  remains,  up-sealed,  unsolved; 

Time’s  crystal  calyx  holds  thy  secret  still. 

Beneath  the  billowy  sands  that  lave  thy  feet 
Embosomed  hides  the  key.  The  clew  is  gone. 

From  every  nation,  clime,  a  pilgrim  stream 
Before  thee  stand  upgazing  to  thy  face 
Pleading  that  thou  shouldst  break  thy  silent  spell. 
They  pass  and  leave  thee  in  disdainful  calm. 

The  golden  stars  look  down,  the  mcon  gleams  on 
Over  the  waves  of  voiceless  desert  sand, 

Her  kiss  awakes  thee  not  from  thy  long  dream. 
Above  thee  Cheops  stands,  proud,  pensive  Sheik, 
Majestic  o’er  his  pyramidal  tribe, 

Thine  unbreathed  secret  guarding  through  the  years, 
His  lordly  brow  uptowering  to  the  sky, 

As  round  thy  head  the  wheeling  cycles  fly. 

So  wilt  thou  stand  when  unborn  ages  still 
Shall  chant  their  legends  to  the  sons  of  men. 


204 


A  PALESTINE  PILGRIMAGE 


L’ENVOY. 

Our  Pilgrimage  is  ended.  For  seventeen  stages  we  have  journeyed  to¬ 
gether  in  pleasant  and  in  foul  weather.  If  our  fellow  pilgrims  have  enjoyed 
this  fellowship  half  as  much  as  we,  and  if  these  descriptions  have  been 
helpful,  we  are  amply  repaid.  We  are  now  at  Alexandria.  The  beautiful 
Cleopatra  is  lying  alongside  the  wharf  ready  to  steam  out  over  the  Mediter¬ 
ranean  for  the  second  half  of  our  delightful  tour.  We  shall  soon  visit 
Naples,  Rome,  Florence,  Milan,  Venice,  Lucerne,  Paris,  Brussels,  the 
Flanders  Fields,  Bruges,  London,  Stratford-on-Avon,  and  many  minor  points. 
We  should  love  to  dwell  at  length  on  these,  but  time  and  space  and  the 
title  of  this  volume  limit  us  to  Palestine.  We  are  turning  again  home, 
back  to  God’s  great  America,  back  to  the  true  Holy  Land,  the  best  land  the 
sun  ever  shone  upon.  One  of  the  chief  assets  of  this  pilgrimage  is  an  en¬ 
hanced  love  and  appreciation  of  our  own  favored  homeland.  She  stands 
in  the  world’s  forefront.  The  word  “Americana”  was  the  Open  Sesame 
to  all  doors.  We  have  the  world’s  good  will  and  to  us  look  the  eyes  of  the 
world  for  help  and  for  guidance  out  of  this  present  tangled  wilderness.  We 
cannot  evade  our  responsibility  under  the  excuse  of  a  narrow  construction 
of  the  Monroe  Doctrine,  nor  will  we  in  the  end.  Ours  is  a  ponderous  re¬ 
sponsibility.  May  the  same  Divine  Hand  that  has  led  us  thus  far  still 
lead  us  on 

“O'er  moor  and  fen, 

O’er  crag  and  torrent  till  the  night  is  gone.” 

Dr.  Henry  van  Dyke  has  expressed  our  feelings  as  we  turn  our  noses 
westward: 

’Tis  fine  to  see  the  Old  World  and  travel  up  and  down 
Among  the  famous  places  and  cities  of  renown, 

To  admire  the  crumbly  castles  and  the  statues  of  the  kings, 

But  now  I  think  I’ve  had  enough  of  antiquated  things. 

0,  London  is  a  man’s  town,  there’s  power  in  the  air;; 

And  Paris  is  a  woman’s  town,  with  flowers  in  her  hair; 

And  it’s  sweet  to  dream  in  Venice  and  it’s  great  to  study  Rome, 

But  when  it  comes  to  living,  there  is  no  place  like  home. 

'I*  'i»  ^ 

I  know  that  Europe’s  wonderful,  yet  something  seems  to  lack, 

The  past  is  too  much  with  her,  and  her  people  looking  back; 

But  the  glory  of  the  Present  is  to  make  the  Future  free — 

We  love  our  land  for  what  she  is  and  what  she  is  to  be. 

So  it’s  home  again,  and  home  again,  America  for  me! 

My  heart  is  turning  home  again,  and  there  I  long  to  be; 

In  the  land  of  youth  and  freedom  beyond  the  ocean  bars, 

Where  the  air  is  full  of  sunlight  and  the  flag  is  full  of  stars. 


FINIS. 


Date  Due 


